![[Self] Thought I'd share a sculpture 'Georilla" I'm working on](https://preview.redd.it/qllvgnrxcdkh1.jpeg?auto=webp&s=01cf67c7f5ee1d52d04dd98cedf677a68a0cb3dd)
my first attempt at sculpture. Still a work in progress. Made from 316 Stainless steel, its roughly 2200mm high, 2000mm from hand to hand and weighs about 170kgs. End result should be a mirror finish. Hoping to get accepted in local event 'Sculptures by the Sea"
Feeling of suffocation/air hunger every time I weld — started after 2+ years
I’ve been working as a welder for more than 2 years and never had this problem before.
But for the last month, almost every day, the moment I start working/welding, I start feeling a sensation of suffocation or not getting enough air. Because of that feeling, I keep taking deep breaths to feel satisfied.
The strange part is that it continues basically the entire 10-hour shift, from when I start work until I finish. When I’m not working, it’s much less noticeable.
Any value got it in a scavange hunt there was more things but were already butchered or torn apart and it seemed new so i took it and thought nothing of it just threw it in my bag and moved on, threw it in my garage and moved on, now im running back through the stuff ive gathered so far and i dont know where to sell it or what it does or if i can even use it myself since i know nothing of welding. Lmk if you know what it is and what its for
Hi everyone, I could use some advice with a problem I’m having while edging/folding 1.5 mm sheet metal.
In the attached photos you can see the result of my work. I can form the two straight edges fairly cleanly, but when I reach the corner where the two folded edges meet, I always end up with this claw-like point / excess material sticking out of the corner.
At that point I’m not sure what the correct technique is to continue forming the edge and turn it into a clean, well-defined corner.
The only method I have managed to use so far is hitting the corner quite hard with a hammer. I can eventually force it into shape, but doing this distorts the sheet metal considerably and also damages the clean edges I have already formed.
I’m therefore trying to understand if there is a better way to control the excess material that builds up at the corner and gradually work it into shape instead of simply forcing it down with heavy hammer blows.
How would you approach a corner like this?
Should the corner be prepared somehow before folding the two sides? Should I gradually shrink/compress the material at the corner, or is there a particular stake, anvil shape, tool, or technique that would make this easier?
If anyone knows of any videos, tutorials, or step-by-step guides showing how to form a clean edged corner like this, I would really appreciate it.
Yesterday I was sand casting these hearts and on this one the spruce disconnected its self. My mind is blown🤯
I left manual welding to now operate cobots and industrial robots, is it an advance? Is it a growth or in the end is it more of the same?
Several months ago I started a shop remodel and I listed off the tools and whatnot I have in my shop and I asked for input on useful purchases to add during the remodel (big or small). One thing a couple of guys mentioned was a decent rolling cart for moving tools and material around the shop. At first I was like "yeah, whatever, its not that big of a deal to make a couple of trips occasionally" but awhile back I bought a harbor freight cart on a whim and let me tell you, TOTAL. GAME. CHANGER.
I use that stupid cart for everything and it has quickly become my most used item in the shop. I recently put HVAC in my shop and i've been making a real effort to keep it clean since the remodel and if I have parts to clean or whatever, i'll just toss them on the cart and wheel them outside and clean them. I dont have a big shop but its about 1000sqft and I have multiple different stations for different tasks (ex; chop saw does all of my 90 cuts, bandsaw does all of my 45, vertical bandsaw does odd angles, belt grinder deburrs, smooth top table for small part assembly, welding fixture table for heavy welding, etc) and its no big deal just to toss whatever I have on my cart and wheel from station to station. Hell, there's been plenty of times I do full assembly right on that stupid cart when my bench is 15 feet away.
Anyway, to whoever told me my shop needed a cart, thank you.
To those of you who dont have a cart, get one, itll change your life.
I am looking to recreate texturing I have seen before. Its supposed to be kind of a hammered steel look. I love the look but the finish leaves something to be desired. How would you go about doing it? The material would be 50ish rockwell carbon steel. I cant hammer on the piece since it would deform so it needs to be an imitation of hammered steel. Im thinking a sphereical double cut carbide burr. Any ideas?
I'd like to invite you to our Iron Pour in Lamberton, Minnesota on September 11-12.
It will be the 22th annual city festival centered around the Saturday Afternoon Pour and the historic Hanzlik Blacksmith Shop. There will be Blacksmiths demonstrations through out the day Friday and Saturday. Visiting Smiths are also encouraged to bring a portable forge and set up onsite if they wish. There will be sand mold shops running both Friday and Saturday as well. We welcome everyone from artists pouring museum quality pieces to children to the farmer making pieces to restore their tractor.
We encourage anyone to participated in the pour and can provide all the necessary safety equipment if you wish to try your hand at pouring.
In addition to the pour there will be a craft market, sand volleyball and various food vendors, an antique tractor/car show, and blacksmithing demonstrations.
Feel free to ask any questions you may have and I hope to see you there.
Here is a link to the Facebook event.
I'm hoping to get some help to develop something which I think would work best in aluminium. I've no experience of metalwork, or STEP files.
My need is this: I am a photographer based in London, currently using two cameras mounted vertically next to each other for stereoscopic photography. I’m using existing camera l-plates for this, which are mounted on the tripod socket using a standard 1/4 thread. The tripod sockets are adjacent to each other.
With the existing mounts, the screws are recessed into the plate which means that they are flush to each other when mounted, but this makes the brackets quite thick - they’re both 10mm thick, which means the distance between mounting plates between cameras totals 20mm.
I’m hoping to find a way of shaving around 15mm off this distance - the stereo distance between the lenses is currently 80mm, and stereoscopic photography works best with lens distance 63-65mm.
I was thinking custom aluminium plates around 2.5 mm thick using flush screws might be a better alternative, if they're strong enough. However, these don’t exist that I can see, so I’m looking for a custom solution.
With a custom solution in mind, I wondered whether it might be possible to create an additional plate which could be added perpendicular to this bracket, to prevent the cameras from rotating at the thread point? They currently have a tendancy to move, and the cameras need to remain in the same position as much as possible.
Basically, I know what I would like the camera mount to look like, can badly sketch the idea, but I don't know if it's practical, or how to turn it into a CNC machined part.
Are there any services in London which can help with the design and creation of this as a one-off? This is for personal projects, with little commercial value, so it can't be too expensive to develop, but I'd be happy to pay a reasonable amount for it.
Any ideas where I should start?
I need to make some feet for a table to make it taller. They want them made out of brass, square with a little top but that is 1/16" wider. I'm pretty good at welding brass but I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make these besides machining them from a solid 2" square bar. How long would this generally take and how much would it cost. I have a buddy with a CNC mill and I was going to have him cut them but he's on vacation and can't get me a bid.
Also, if anybody has a better way to do this I'm open. I considered making it from bar stock but the little flange at the top makes welding a lot harder.
Hi all,
I have a thing for pneumatic tools, I love the sound, I love that they're lightweight, most of all, I love that they never get hot. I have my shop set up to easily use pneumatic tools everywhere but I feel like my collection is lacking!
Currently I have;
Thats it.
I have a lot of battery powered tools but id love some suggestions for pneumatic tools that are useful for metalworking.
Thanks!
Hello
I'm making brass scales for my butterfly knife and I'd like to solder some brass pieces onto the base, but I've never done it and my only practice attempt ended up with hard solder rolling up into a ball and the brass piece ended up melting :P I can guess what I did wrong - wrong flux (used a paste made of borax instead of a specific flux, or I made it wrong) or I forgot to completely clean the brass pieces I tried to join. I'll attempt a test piece again but before that I want to ask how should I solder this piece:
As you can see the plates I want to solder are fastened in place with screws. Thing is, where the screws are I want to put brass pins (made from the brass rod above) but I don't know if I should do this before or after soldering. If I rivet the pieces before, the solder should flow into the spaces between the river and plate reinforcing the joint even further.
But then... Just how do I do this? Do I need to put the flux paste between the plate and base? I don't know if it'd work well since after doing that I have to pin them. I really need a step by step process because I'm a little slow and I need to visualize every step.
For materials, I have:
- silver hard solder (2% silver)
- flux paste (Brazing paste AMASAN HS)
- handheld torch (one where you screw on a butane bottle, before you say it's too weak please consider that it IS capable of melting brass :P )
Here's how I see it:
Sand down the parts that will be joined together to increase surface where the solder will flow (ps what grade sandpaper will be best? 240? Higher/lower grit?)
Clean the surfaces with acetone to remove any grease
Smear the surfaces with flux paste
X) Now this is applicable only to this case - rivet the two plates together while wearing rubber gloves being careful no debris gets between them
Heat up the metal by moving the flame back and forth, and touch the solder to the gap when it's hot enough. If done right the solder should flow into the space.
Wait a few seconds and dunk the piece in cold water to harden the flux
Do I have this right? Please help, I really don't want to mess this up...
