Logged on today and saw both streams are available again for the Stealth Toyota FT-1 and the Mazda 787B, be sure to submit your entries so you can get the free cars in September!
10 laps of Daytona here feels impossibly unforgiving. As a newer player, how am I supposed to actually win this race? All the cars keep rubber banding and flying around me when I clearly have the better line and more speed. I’ve looked at videos and everything says to use the Le Mans Spec II Ford GT but I don’t have enough money to buy it, so I use the Mustang GR3 which has been fine for me.
My main problem is that after 6 laps, whenever I pit, the AI either had a way faster pit time, or they seemingly don’t pit at all. I am mainly trying to find a decent paying race that I can grind out for money. In terms of my skill the Daytona race seems possible but at the same time feels extremely unforgiving as it feels like the BoP only affects me and not the AI.
Spoiler marked just in case you have not seen the film but I am proud of this fashion!
The Sparrow is the weakest of everything but I could not find anything closer (that I owned) to >!>!the Hail Mary ship!<!< from the film. If there is one that looks like it let me know!
Recently got a T300rs GT for ACC and some other games and for whatever reason, ACC feels so off on the wheel but my other games are fine. Obviously it will probably take hundreds and hundreds of hours minimum to be somewhat “good” with a wheel (for good lap times) but I cannot find the ideal settings that makes the turning smooth, and my wheel always fights me when making hard turns/inputs.
Here are my current wheel settings for reference:
Gain: 65%
Minimum Force: 0
Dynamic dampening: 75%
Road effects: 0
Frequency: 100hz
Steer lock: 540
Steer scale: 100%
Steer linearity, brake gamma and brake dead zone are the lowest they can go
I do have stability control at 50% and I assume this needs to just be off completely? I usually run 0-2 traction control on the car itself depending on the track. What of these settings should I adjust?
So within the next couple months I’m planning on getting the Thrustmaster t300rs gt wheel and pedals for my PS5 so I can use it for ACC (and other potential racing games but mostly ACC). But a buddy of mine is saying to get the Moza R3 with a Brook Ras1ution 2 wheel converter. Overall the price comes out to:
T300: a bit under 400 when on sale (like 370)
Moza R3 + converter = 400 (wheel and pedals are 270, converter is 120)
Which would be the better buy? It’s my first time looking into a wheel setup and I don’t want to go crazy on price, and they seem about the same price wise. Would the converter with the Moza be consistent enough or should I just start with the t300?
So, I am on a PS5 (and before you say anything, yes I know the line is on, I have been practicing with it both on and off).
My main question is how to reach this point of the track (passing under the circled banner) within 1 minute 15 seconds. I have studied and practiced the line that can lead to an 8:06 lap time, but the best I’ve done is reached that point 2-3 seconds behind every time when done correctly. The best I can do now in the BMW M4 GT4 is about 8:29. I even have the same exact car tuning that would allow for such a fast lap time.
Is it mainly due to the fact I play on console so not having the performance of a pc and wheel/pedal rig affects it? I’ve also noticed a lot of wheel users (including the 8:06 lap time) does not seem to have force feedback enabled at all which seems to give them buttery smooth turning (but I could be wrong on how FFB works).
Not looking to complain with this but I’m trying to understand what I could be doing wrong (as I’ve seen people claim mid 8:20s or lower on controller) if it’s just more practice needed or the fact that controller is just way harder to race with than wheel & pc.