I just swapped from a d16y7 to a d16y8 manual because my engine went and it starts up just fine but the idle jumps up and down. I've checked for vacuum leaks and the iacv is new. It also bogs and stalls when you hit the throttle.
I’m swapping in a y8 for my y7 but there’s a few things I’m confused on. My civic is a manual obd2a and I plan on using my harness and a mini me jumper harness to get my engine running. The iacv is a three prong connector on my car and the y8 is a two prong. There’s a black, red, and yellow wire going to it, which wire gets taped off when I splice the new plug on? I also read that I would have to move one of the wires to a different spot in the ecu plug but the article I read didn’t give specifics. I’m going to be using a 96-98 obd2a ecu.
I have a 1997 Civic LX 5-speed with a D16Y7. The engine spun a rod bearing after being run very low on oil, but I replaced the bearing and now the engine runs smooth with no knocking or major noises. The weird issue is that it idles perfectly fine when cold and even when fully warmed up, but as soon as I touch the throttle, the idle starts getting worse. After revving it, the RPM will drop to around 300 and sometimes stall because it can't seem to catch itself. The more it happens, the worse it gets. The car also feels sluggish while driving. I previously got a P1509 (IACV) code while the engine had severe rod knock, but it hasn't come back. I cleaned the IACV and tested it with a 9V battery and it opens/closes. Unplugging the IACV raises idle to around 1200 RPM and changes the behavior, but the car can still occasionally stall. Does this sound more like a TPS issue, IACV wiring/control issue, MAP sensor issue, or something else?
My car starts up and already in itself has a low idle. You can rev it a bit before it warms up all the way and the engine is fine but once it’s warm and you touch the throttle the rpm’s go up then it stalls o the way back down. I’m assuming it’s an issue with my iacv so I cleaned it but I’m having the same issue. It’s idling at around 500-700 rpm when warm and when I unplug the iacv it jumps up to around 1200 rpm.
I recently did a valve job on my 97 civic lx to fix a really bad misfire it had. The valve job fixed the misfire right up but my valve cover gasket was leaking oil in a spot I don’t notice and my car ended up running low on oil. I would also like to note after did the valve job the car ran much better and there was no noises. I was checking my oil level after I did the job for a week twice a day. Long story short I was driving a bit hard for a couple days and I lost a lot of oil then. I noticed a very noticeable loss of high rpm power, where it was accelerating much slower at higher rpm. I immediately went to pull over and when I pushed my clutch in my car died. As of this moment my car can only rev when it’s cold but once it warms up, if you rev it the engine will die. There’s also what sounds to be a valve train tick. Originally my car would idle without any noises and I was told by a guy to redo my valve adjustment with .008 intake and .010 exhaust. Now the tick is also at idle so I’m assuming the valve lash is too big. The most concerning noise is the clunk noise when you let of the throttle which I’m assuming is a spun bearing. I verified my timing was also good. I’m planning on going underneath and putting in new rod bearings, redoing the valve lash, and praying things are ok. If anyone has insights or recommendations on what I should do I’m open to suggestions. With my car having run on low oil for 2 days while being pushed I’m assuming a lot of damage was done and atp I’m considering looking for another d16 with lower miles to drop in.