u/VladyUA

Looking for opinions from people who have owned/worked on both the late 5.9 common-rail trucks and the early 6.7s.

I currently have an early 6.7 3rd gen, 4x4 with a G56. It's deleted, has an upgraded dual-disc clutch, and I've already gone through a fair amount of the typical front-end/steering maintenance. It's not a perfect truck, but at this point I know it pretty well.

I've been thinking about whether I'd ultimately rather have a late 5.9 common-rail truck with a G56 close to original shape, unmodified.

Assume both are driver-quality 3rd gens with higher mileage and some normal cosmetic/history issues. Also assume the 5.9 and 6.7 are typical Southern East Coast trucks without frame or body rust. 6.7L has 5/10 interior, the 5.9 - 7-8/10 if this matters.

From a long-term ownership standpoint, how do you guys compare them?

I'm particularly interested in:

- 5.9 vs deleted 6.7 reliability and longevity

- G56 behind the 5.9 vs G56 behind the 6.7

- Parts availability as these trucks continue getting older

- Ease/cost of DIY repairs

- Fuel economy

- Towing and general work-truck use

- Whether the extra displacement/torque of the 6.7 is noticeable enough to matter

- Whether a rust-free 5.9 chassis is worth giving up a known/sorted 6.7 for

- Long-term desirability/resale value

- Problems specific to the late 5.9 trucks that a 6.7 owner might not expect

The 5.9's lack of the original 6.7 emissions equipment is often mentioned as a major advantage, but if the 6.7 is already deleted, how much of an advantage does the 5.9 actually retain?

Basically, if you had two similarly priced, higher-mileage 3rd gens in comparable mechanical condition—late close to original 5.9/G56/4x4 vs deleted 6.7/G56/4x4 with an upgraded clutch—which platform would you choose to keep for the next 10+ years, and why?

​

I’m continuing working on the front end of my 2007.5 Ram 2500 4WD 6.7 Cummins and ran into a strange stabilizer bar situation.

I originally ordered a Mevotech TTX line stabilizer bar, but when it arrived I noticed the mounting holes on it were 14mm and my axle side bolt simply won't go through the bushing. My existing bar appeared to have ~16.2mm holes at both ends based on the bushings, so without inspecting the frame side opening I ordered the 16mm hole bushings hoping to just press them in instead of the worn ones.

The bushings came in and that’s when I found something interesting:

Frame side (driver side): 14mm bolt / ~14mm mounting hole

Axle side (passenger side): 16mm bolt / ~16.2mm mounting hole

The actual bushing tube on my old bar is ~16.2mm ID on both ends.

The 14mm frame-side bolt is noticeably worn because it is supporting a ~16mm bushing tube and sustains beating from the bushing tube.

It looks to me like the stabilizer bar may have been replaced at some point with an incorrect/different version, or the truck ended up with mismatched components.

Doing some reading on the subj. gave me an info that some trucks that year received the stabilizer bars tgat have bushings with 14mm ID at both ends, some that have 16/14 and eventually things transitioned to the bars with bushings of 16mm ID on both ends.

The parts catalogs seem to show some variation in the 2007 trucks, so I'm wondering if anyone else has actually encountered this combination.

What would you do?

Find the correct stabilizer bar that is actually designed for 14mm on the frame side and 16mm on the axle side, or

Drill the frame-side mounting hole out to 16mm and use the bar designed for 16mm hardware on both sides?

I’m leaning toward fixing it properly rather than continuing to run a 14mm bolt through a ~16mm bushing sleeve, but I’d really like to hear from anyone who has dealt with this exact situation.

If anyone knows the correct OEM bar/part number for the 14/16mm configuration, I'd especially appreciate that.

TL;DR: My 2007.5 Ram 2500 has a stabilizer bar with a ~16.2mm bushing sleeve on both ends, but the frame-side mounting hole/bolt is 14mm while the axle side is 16mm. The 14mm frame-side hole is worn. Was this an OEM configuration, a mid-year variation, or a previous-owner parts mismatch? Should I find a 14/16mm bar or drill the frame to 16mm and run 16mm hardware?

I'm replacing the worn steering on my 2007.5 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins and ran into a weird Mevotech/RockAuto fitment contradiction.

RockAuto lists the individual Mevotech TTX steering components that connect to the steering knuckles and Pitman arm as fitting my 2007.5 truck. However, one TTX piece — the connector between the drag link and right outer tie rod — isn't sold separately.

I initially assumed there was no TTX version of that piece and bought the Mevotech Supreme (MS) equivalent instead. That's when I discovered that the TTX parts use different adjustment sleeves and don't fit my existing sleeves, while the MS part does.

I contacted Mevotech engineering. They confirmed that the TTX setup *does* fit my truck, but the missing TTX connector is only available as part of the complete assembly, TXMS25656, along with the correct sleeves.

Here's the strange part:

RockAuto lists TXMS25656 only for 2009–2011 Rams and specifically does NOT show it as fitting my 2007.5.

Yet the individual TTX components from that setup that actually seat into the steering knuckles and Pitman arm are listed as fitting my 2007.5.

So before I order the complete assembly, I'm trying to figure out whether there was actually a change in the steering-knuckle or Pitman-arm tapered holes/geometry between 2007.5 and the later trucks.

Has anyone installed TXMS25656 on a 2007 or 2007.5 Ram 2500/3500? Did the tapers seat correctly without modification?

TL;DR: Mevotech engineering says TXMS25656 fits my 2007.5 Ram, but RockAuto says the complete assembly fits only 2009–2011. At the same time, RockAuto lists the individual TTX parts that connect to the knuckles/Pitman arm as fitting my 2007.5. Looking for someone who has actually installed this assembly on a 2007/2007.5 truck or knows whether the knuckle/Pitman-arm tapers changed.

I'm working on the leaking axle seal (driver side). Took out the leaking seal, put the new one. Found out the passenger side also looks very old. Replaced it (oh, what fun was it to take it out on a longer side).

Anyway, to give you a feeling of a truck, the frame has no rust, the knuckles came out effortlessly. But all the seals were old, and all the steering and suspension components were way overdue for replacement.

I am looking at the axle U-joints. No foreign sounds, all function well. Should I replace them while tge axles are out? I have the parts that are ordered, I can still send tgem back.

Would you replace the healthy U-joints of an unknown age on a truck with a lot of deferred maintenance? Or wait for necessity and replace without pulling the axles?

Very new (to me only) 2007.5 6.7L cumm8ns with G56.

All the gears shift well, no gear popping. But a bit noisy sometimes when idle after driving and 2nd gear more than the other ones. Not sure if it's normal.

I wanted to change all the fluids. New buy, oldish truck.

What should I put as a transfer case fluid and MT fluid?

Light weight towing, summers are around 100F here in VA and winters are mostly 30F with occasional dips to 10-15F.

ATF +4 for both? GL5 75W-90 gear oil?

Any other suggestions?

First time owner here. Bought 2007 6.7L g56 2500.

Missed quite a few things when doing my due diligence so you will see me often here with questions.

The tie rod ends and sway bar links are dead. Some other steering components are too. I only dealt with light car suspension in the past, so this front end looks a bit more complex, but also more accessible.

Which components should I get? Mevotech Supreme seem to be doing good job for me in the past, but chatgpt suggests I should update to XRF and change the geometry if the front end. In the questions like this I would trust more to the human with experience than ai.

I am not planning to do any off-roading, occasional light off-roading when hunting, fishing, light towing.

I'm not even sure I will keep the truck long-term. Only want to do the upgrades that improve reliability and hopefully make the truck easier to sell in the future, or at least not reduce its attractiveness.

What woukd you recommend?

Looking at buying a 2004 Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins 6-speed 4x4 for $7.5k. Seller says it ran perfectly, was parked after a drive, and then would crank but not start. He believes the lift pump isn't turning on.

Additional info:

- Tach reportedly does not move while cranking

- No check engine light

- Seller doesn't know rail pressure

- Stock lift pump

- Truck has 170k miles

Assuming I bring a scanner, what can I realistically do on-site to evaluate the condition of the engine itself before buying?

Can I reasonably rule out major engine issues (compression, injectors, CP3, etc.) on a non-running truck, or am I basically gambling until it runs? What data points would you check first?

My son's 2015 golf tdi started displaying a CEL which wouldn’t go away.

The VCDS codes say this:

23010 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System

P240F 00 [01100000] - Response too Slow. Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

5290 - Throttle Actuator Control Circuit

P2100 00 [01100000] - Open Circuit

Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

25744 - Catalyst System; Bank 1

P0420 00 [01100000] - Efficiency Below Threshold

Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

8863 - Particulate Filter

P2459 00 [11101000] - Regeneration Frequency

MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 26

Mileage: 241844 km

Date: 2025.10.10

Time: 08:25:26

Can cleaning the throttle body help? (at least act as a point to start)