Does any one know if the exhaust system is different. like could I take the 04s and put it on the 04.5? I'm pretty sure the only real difference between them is internals and computer. I'm looking for a turbo back kit, as my exhaust has literally fallen off. I can only find cat back for the 04.5-07 but they sell full kits for the 03-04. Thank you for any help.
Is this a new remedy for air in the fuel after filter change ? I have a long way to go before filter changes but I’ll need to know how to remove these hoses on top of the 28 mm cap nut - I haven’t found any information regarding these added hoses. Anyone know anything? Thanks in advance
I have a 2010 ram 3500,
Bought it for cheap as a fixer upper. Ive done alot of work to this, studs, overhead, turbo, exhaust manifold, highram, and other things. Really starting to love this truck. Im Using it for towing now, the transmission is hating it. Specifically when going down dirt roads with washboards it overheats, i suspect its a combination of the slow speeds and the washboards not allowing it to lockup. I saw 250 the other day when i wasn't paying attention to it and happened to look at it. I'm considering replacing the stock transmission and just getting it out of the way. I know it's subjective but who makes the best transmissions for towing for these years and what makes it better than the others?
1986 F350 with 5.9 cummins from 1992 Dodge D250
I'm changing the the 3rd gen power steering and hydroboost to 4th gen setup. My question is related to the brake master cylinder ports. The 3rd gen has the larger fitting toward the front and the 4th gen has the larger fitting towards the rear. Are the front and rear brakes lines fed from the front and rear ports on the on the 3rd and 4th gens, or are they the opposite of each other? I have the cut the lines and change the fittings and I'd like to put the lines from the 4th gen master to their intended brake control path.
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I’m trying to track down some information on a Valmet 644 forwarder we’ve got. We think it’s a 1997–2000 model, and it’s running a Cummins 4BT engine. The main problem we’re dealing with right now is the hydraulics heating up really fast under load. The radiator is in fact shot, but my dad thinks its more than that.
We’re basically looking for anything that could help us identify or work on this machine:
- Service/workshop manuals
- Wiring diagrams / schematics
- Hydraulic schematics
- Parts books
- Electrical diagrams
- Serial number / model info
- Anyone who’s worked on these machines before
- Contacts for old Valmet techs, dealers, engineers, or anyone who really knows these inside and out
- Any archived Valmet documentation
- Even info on other 644s that might help us figure ours out
If anyone has manuals, diagrams, old dealer info, contacts, photos of their machine, or even just a lead on where to look, I’d really appreciate it.
There is a pic attached of what I (I could definitely be 100% wrong) believe to be a serial plate? Truthfully ive only been running her consistently for about 6 months now, though my dad has had it for 6ish years. He has put two engines in it.
Basically I'm just trying to piece together info on an older machine that doesn’t have a ton of info floating around online. Any sort of info if greatly appreciated.
While on a 6 hour trip home the trans went into limp mode twice in the first two hours only while using cruise control. Stopped using it for the remaining 4 hours and didn’t happen again or since over the past week. Pulled over shut off and turned back on after a few seconds and would run fine. Threw no codes or lights ever. Trans temps were and are consistently 165-170. Truck is d/t with unknown tunes, 53k miles. Fluid doesn’t smell burned whatsoever. Gonna get a scanner and see what’s going on but anybody have any ideas? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA!
1996 ram 2500 cummins.
freshly rebuilt 47RE by myself, followed the shop manual thoroughly. new DPC triple disc converter.
was eager to fill it with fluid and go through the gears tonight. when i had filled 13 liters fluid started to pour from the little inspection hatch for the TC.
any suggestions? feels a little exhausting to pull the transmission again 😔
Truck is dropping fueling intermittently, iquad showing boost randomly dropping to 0 and then back up again, replaced map sensor and cleaned connections 99 24 valve
Just did my oil change for the second time since having the truck and the dipstick reads high after only adding 12 quarts.
How hard is it to really do, I’m contemplating doing it myself or having a shop/dealer do it. Just want to know what to expect
18 2500
Hey there all. Picked up my first diesel ever recently. Its an 89 12v with a VE pump in a 1976 D300. After buying the truck I noticed a pretty good leak coming from the pump so after some investigating I found the culprit. The rear block seal is bad and is leaking in between the pump housing and the block. That being said, Im curious if I can replace just that seal with the pump still in the truck. I know the top of the pump will need to come apart but is it worth it to try and do it in the truck or should I pull the whole pump? Let me know. Like I said first ever diesel so very green when it comes to something with no sparkplugs. Thank you in advance!
2012 ram 2500 6.7
95k miles on it nothing but trouble since I’ve bought now I hear it sounding different???
We recently acquired a old military 5 ton that had been sitting for several years. We went through it changed all the filters and oil (oil looked good just very dark when drained no water, coolant, diesel or metal). After starting it and letting it idle for about 15-20 min we noticed a small peck, the peck very quickly turned into a knock and within seconds the motor locked.
Anyone have any ideas as to what could’ve caused this? Any tips on where to go from here, how likely can it be fixed?
So I recently bought this truck, an 03 1 ton. It currently has some type of cobbled together lift pump setup that intermittently doesn't work. I'm in the process of replacing all this junk with a FASS Signature series. I would like to run the fuel into the factory filter housing instead of straight to the injection pump. My reasons being that I want to keep the Water-in-fuel sensor and the fuel heater functional and operating in the fuel system. I removed the factory lift pump that was unplugged and not being used, from looking at the inlet and what I found online I think I have found the right pieces to adapt to run the fuel into the filter housing from the FASS pump. I would just like to confirm if the pieces I found from Glacier are the right things and what I'm trying to do is going to work properly.
Also one other thing - I would like to install a brand new fuel inlet line from the filter housing going into the cp3. I have had trouble finding the right part, everything I seem to find available online is for 12v engines. Wondering if anybody knows where to find the fuel feed line for an 03 24v engine. Thanks
Looking for opinions from people who have owned/worked on both the late 5.9 common-rail trucks and the early 6.7s.
I currently have an early 6.7 3rd gen, 4x4 with a G56. It's deleted, has an upgraded dual-disc clutch, and I've already gone through a fair amount of the typical front-end/steering maintenance. It's not a perfect truck, but at this point I know it pretty well.
I've been thinking about whether I'd ultimately rather have a late 5.9 common-rail truck with a G56 close to original shape, unmodified.
Assume both are driver-quality 3rd gens with higher mileage and some normal cosmetic/history issues. Also assume the 5.9 and 6.7 are typical Southern East Coast trucks without frame or body rust. 6.7L has 5/10 interior, the 5.9 - 7-8/10 if this matters.
From a long-term ownership standpoint, how do you guys compare them?
I'm particularly interested in:
- 5.9 vs deleted 6.7 reliability and longevity
- G56 behind the 5.9 vs G56 behind the 6.7
- Parts availability as these trucks continue getting older
- Ease/cost of DIY repairs
- Fuel economy
- Towing and general work-truck use
- Whether the extra displacement/torque of the 6.7 is noticeable enough to matter
- Whether a rust-free 5.9 chassis is worth giving up a known/sorted 6.7 for
- Long-term desirability/resale value
- Problems specific to the late 5.9 trucks that a 6.7 owner might not expect
The 5.9's lack of the original 6.7 emissions equipment is often mentioned as a major advantage, but if the 6.7 is already deleted, how much of an advantage does the 5.9 actually retain?
Basically, if you had two similarly priced, higher-mileage 3rd gens in comparable mechanical condition—late close to original 5.9/G56/4x4 vs deleted 6.7/G56/4x4 with an upgraded clutch—which platform would you choose to keep for the next 10+ years, and why?
do a good 175 mile drive back n forth every other weekend. would eco row be best for all stock truck or just stock tune for traveling
hey yall,
im looking into getting a ram 2500 next year, most likely used 5th gen. Ive been educating myself on the platform and a big problem ive been trying to get answers to is how do you start it in the winter without a block heater.
I live in toronto where we can have a week straight of -20 to -28 and sometimes -30 degree weather. I plan on getting the banks with the 1500 watt upgrade cuz i heard the bolt in the grid heater can kill your engine.
Anyways, ill be able to plug in at home and with the banks coils im sure it will start up fine. problem is that where I work I cant plug in and the truck would be sitting outside in the parking lot for 8-12 hours. Is it fine to start if its been sitting for that long in -30 degree weather? is it just a bullet you gotta take with owning a diesel where it gets extremely cold? or are there solutions to this.
thanks guys.