r/Cummins

Well, I'm in the club now. 2017 with 62,000 on it. Bone stock, small amount of towing (probably about 5k-7k miles towing an 8k lb trailer, no towing in the last 40k miles). CEL came on yesterday; threw a P0868. Still driving fine. I did notice when I first shifted into D, it didn't roll immediately like it normally does (should have been my first hint; but I was busy and brushed it off as it's been sitting for a couple weeks). Checked fluid, it was about a quart low. Refilled it just to get it home. Temps never went above 173F, sitting in traffic on a super hot day (about 95 yesterday when I was idling in traffic for almost half an hour). No smells, or anything like that. Checked the pan; it's obviously leaking, but I'm not sure from where. It seems to be all over the pan, and front of the trans but that could just be because it was blown back while driving. No leaks on the driveway, it's obviously just leaking while hot/driving.

Where do you guys think the leak could be coming from?

I suppose this is a good time to replace the pan with something with a drain plug, looking at the PPE; seems like a quality unit. Anything else (other than filters) I should replace while I'm all up in there?

My a/c compressor turns on and stays engaged but doesn't blow cold air. Since it stays on and doesn't cycle on/off that tells me there's still pressure in the system but it doesn't feel cold, maybe slightly cooler than air temp but it's hard to tell. Iv got 2 14oz cans of r12, should I add a can to the system? The valve I have doesn't have any pressure gauge so I won't be sure how much to even put in

Hoping someone can help me out. I ordered a 3k/4k kit of gov springs online. Was under the impression its just 3 springs but received 6 in the package. I assume 3 are for 3k and 3 are for 4k. I thought previously you leave the small spring out for some reason for 3k. Very hard to tell differences between them. (They weren’t separated in the bag they were all mixed)

2006 Cummins. I have identified a small fuel leak here at the base of the nut. Is this the return line? I’m trying to figure out if I should tow it to a shop or if I can drive it there (obvious fire risk noted). I had the injectors replaced last year so I’m trying to be proactive. I’m in a rural area so a shop is about 50ish miles.

Anyone have a clue what this switch could be under the hood? 2008 6.7 3500 mega cab dually cummins.

Has “on and “off” position, looks like a fuse got burnt up. I have no clue what it is so any help would be appreciated.

Long story short, I was probing my ECM harness to check continuity to DEF sensor and I bent the internals of the female end. Lesson learned to use the proper tools. I went to fix it and I broke this off. It was the J2 harness to the ECM if that makes a difference. 96 pin layout. Where can I find the female ends that go to this harness? This first picture has the wire it broke off of. Sorry if the pictures are bad. Thanks in advance,hopfully I didn’t screw myself.

Just haven't drivin as much in the last year or so. Thinking of letting go. 86 Ramcharger, 92 cummins auto, kdp, fuel and pump got a little turn about 9 years ago. 300k miles 2nd gen intercooler...Was daily driver until last year. Plenty of rust, as it came out if Canada. What's she worth? Washington state

Just got this 2018 55k miles g56 just picked it up for 35k I know it’s a tradesman but I feel like it was a good deal.

Have a Dodge Commons 2500 that has 240,000 miles and it’s still on the OG injectors. Recently bought about two weeks ago when I took it into a shop to have it kind of looked at and diagnosed. First thing that they noticed that had been overfilled on oil on a quart, which was not my doing.
There’s another AC fan code that was going off other than that. Everything looked all right. I have an ABS light for a left front tire module and a brake light that won’t go off.
The guy told me that he ran some pressure test and said that with the engine having to crank four times before starting, he’s having the fuel injectors were probably on its way out and wouldn’t recommend doing those soon. He said that in order to maintain make sure that the injectors last a while they recommend doing the entire fuel system which we is around a $5000. repair.
Don’t have the money to do that right now. I guess I’m just wondering if you guys have any advice it’s not blown any white smoke now so I know I could probably drive another while on the injectors it has now.
I got the truck for 7500 and its body is a little beat up, but ultimately it’s a pretty decent truck. Just unsure whether it’s worth doing the work myself doing it through the shop and spending $5000 or just flipping the truck and putting my money somewhere else.

New diesel owner here, bought from a elderly gentleman, meticulously maintained, overhauled 75k ago currently has 250k on it. Fluids changed religiously. Bone stock, what is some advice on keeping it running forever. I only care about mechanicals the body has rust and scratches it isn’t a show truck. Thank you for any tips.