
Key reprogram didn’t work
Key won’t lock or unlock 2002 suburban. Replaced battery on key,, it flashes as if it’s trying to send out signal. Any tips?? Thanks!

Key won’t lock or unlock 2002 suburban. Replaced battery on key,, it flashes as if it’s trying to send out signal. Any tips?? Thanks!
NOT AN ACCOUNTANT NOT A LAWYER— Thoughts?:
Generating $108,000 worth of deductions across 6 years & offsetting $25-30-35-40,000 worth of tax expenses over the 6 years
ASSUMING YOU DRIVE 25,000 MILES EACH YEAR
Vs itemizing the exact bill & only having $25-40,000 worth of deductions/cost associated with vehicle after 6 years
But essentially,, If you can offset your $30-40,000 spent,, & only technically be “out” $1-4,000-12,000 on the car—
$18,125x.24=$4,350.00 saved in taxes each year over 6 years
$4,350x6=$26,100
4,350/12=$362.5/mo back into your pocket
With about $400-500-550-600 average cost per month for everything revolving around the car,,
Effectively costing you $188-287/mo to insure, fuel, maintain, & drive your car 120,000 miles
Car in theory could get 30-40-50 mpg
Then $1,000/120,000=$0.01 (per mile)
$2,000/120,000=0.0167
$3,000/120,000=$0.03
4,000/120,000=0.0333
5,000/120,000=0.0417
6,000/120,000=0.05
7,000/120,000=0.0583
8,000/120,000=0.0667
9,000/120,000=0.075
10,000/120,000=0.0833
11,000/120,000=0.0917
12,000/120,000=0.10
I’m scatterbrained here so probably leaving out important details & also ,, my apologies for poorly structuring. Did my best.
Tune in any way you can. If not,, I’ll reword it & again later.
Also with the acquisition of the vehicle,, pay cash or finance/structure self-repayment for it over 3-6 years,, & on year 1 you’re deducting 18,000 for 7,500 (the earlier years should average about $600-650/mo,, but if you can get CHEAP insurance,, & own the car outright,, you could be looking at closer to $400/mo
Obviously if you drive 25,000 miles,, 25,000mi/30mpg=833.333gal
833.333x4.50=$3,749.999 per year in gas (national average)
3,749/12=$312.417/mo on gas alone
Thought process is,, pay cash from profits to repair,, or structure a $2,500-3,000 repairs over 6-36 months to keep monthly outlay LOW while still writing off 2-3-4x more than actually spending. Handle most maintenance and simple repairs myself.
Of course I could be wrong,, I’m not an accountant or tax professional. Just thought this might be good for tiny businesses & average Americans traveling for business. Looking for some opinions/insight.
(Was doing the math on how a 60,000 vehicle can turn into $1-1.11+ per mile over 6 years & 120,000-150,000 miles if you aren’t careful about your structuring,, & from a networth standpoint that would be life changing for many if they successfully pulled off the polar strategy)—(saves cash to go to real profit/growth,, not maintaining BS)
Legitimate business travel,, not commuting
NOT AN ACCOUNTANT NOT A LAWYER— Thoughts?:
Generating $108,000 worth of deductions across 6 years & offsetting $25-30-35-40,000 worth of tax expenses over the 6 years
ASSUMING YOU DRIVE 25,000 MILES EACH YEAR
Vs itemizing the exact bill & only having $25-40,000 worth of deductions/cost associated with vehicle after 6 years
But essentially,, If you can offset your $30-40,000 spent,, & only technically be “out” $1-4,000-12,000 on the car—
$18,125x.24=$4,350.00 saved in taxes each year over 6 years
$4,350x6=$26,100
4,350/12=$362.5/mo back into your pocket
With about $400-500-550-600 average cost per month for everything revolving around the car,,
Effectively costing you $188-287/mo to insure, fuel, maintain, & drive your car 120,000 miles
Car in theory could get 30-40-50 mpg
Then $1,000/120,000=$0.01 (per mile)
$2,000/120,000=0.0167
$3,000/120,000=$0.03
4,000/120,000=0.0333
5,000/120,000=0.0417
6,000/120,000=0.05
7,000/120,000=0.0583
8,000/120,000=0.0667
9,000/120,000=0.075
10,000/120,000=0.0833
11,000/120,000=0.0917
12,000/120,000=0.10
I’m scatterbrained here so probably leaving out important details & also ,, my apologies for poorly structuring. Did my best.
Tune in any way you can. If not,, I’ll reword it & again later.
Also with the acquisition of the vehicle,, pay cash or finance/structure self-repayment for it over 3-6 years,, & on year 1 you’re deducting 18,000 for 7,500 (the earlier years should average about $600-650/mo,, but if you can get CHEAP insurance,, & own the car outright,, you could be looking at closer to $400/mo
Obviously if you drive 25,000 miles,, 25,000mi/30mpg=833.333gal
833.333x4.50=$3,749.999 per year in gas (national average)
3,749/12=$312.417/mo on gas alone
Thought process is,, pay cash from profits to repair,, or structure a $2,500-3,000 repairs over 6-36 months to keep monthly outlay LOW while still writing off 2-3-4x more than actually spending. Handle most maintenance and simple repairs myself.
Of course I could be wrong,, I’m not an accountant or tax professional. Just thought this might be good for tiny businesses & average Americans traveling for business. Looking for some opinions/insight.
(Was doing the math on how a 60,000 vehicle can turn into $1-1.11+ per mile over 6 years & 120,000-150,000 miles if you aren’t careful about your structuring,, & from a networth standpoint that would be life changing for many if they successfully pulled off the polar strategy)—(saves cash to go to real profit/growth,, not maintaining BS)
Have one in a 2002
Bottom lever pulls the cable & there’s a mechanism moving,, but it doesn’t release the bottom seat.
The top lever seemingly does nothing. Any advice? 2002 suburban.
Acquired 2002 suburban, getting old but engine runs great. Can anyone help with ideas towards a master list? Looking to do a lot of preventative maintenance ,, & I’m curious what OEM parts I should be looking to replace or check after ~24 years.
Gears weren’t aligned, I moved them in attempt to regain airflow in front and feet. Actuator still does nothing but air is flowing. Can you tell me what I just did?
Is this something I can leave like this temporarily until I replace the actuator? Any info appreciated.
Trying to get better access of the actuator
2002 Chevy suburban
backseat air blows (on different controls from back)
front air doesn’t , only the defroster
I can hear it blow harder and slower but nothing comes out The front vents
Troubleshooting help?