r/ChevySuburban

I have a 2007 suburban 5.3 flex fuel that is having around -15% in both banks. I changed the oil and it was heavily fuel contaminated and i can’t figure out what’s causing it. Not sure if this had anything to do with it but i noticed after having a reduced engine power code issue. I cleaned and then replaced the throttle body due to some throttle issues. Any help would be great…

I am about to buy a 150,000 95 suburban. 7.4 big block. 2 owners, 2nd owner bought it 16yesds ago and put 35,000 miles on it… is that too great old to be true? Perfect interior besides the trunk with stained carpet. No big problems, no rust, good new tires etc etc. what do I need to watch for? Is it too good to be true? I’m getting it for 5,300

I have a 2016 Suburban (195k miles) that I’ve been driving and love. I know it doesn’t have a good transmission track record. Is the 2019 any better??

I’m thinking of trading mine in for the 2019 (103k miles). They want $24k for it. Whats the going rate??

Thanks!

Tail lights stay on when the truck is on but not on when the truck is off the 3rd brake light also doesnt work and the cruise control stopped working since the brake lights are on ive changed the brake pedal switch and the rear light junction box when i turn the light knob too turn the light off they go off but when i turn the knob again they come back on.

I've got a higher mileage 2021 suburban (131k miles) and while it drives very smooth and has a controlled bounce over large smooth bumps, the fast sharp bumps like lines in the road or man hole covers really rattle the hell out of the vehicle, feels like the tires are at 80psi when this happens. I'm wondering at this mileage would all 4 struts fix or at least help this issue. These are non magnetic ride control, non air suspension.

2005 suburban 2500 6.0/4L80

I bought the suburban a year and a half ago, and the radio functioned fine. Since then, sporadically, but near-permanently now, the radio will turn on when I turn the key to accessory, and will stay on BRIEFLY (30-45 seconds?) when I turn the engine on, then will shut off. Just zero power at the head unit.

Once I cut the engine off and go to accessory, the radio will power back on, and then when I remove the key, it shuts off like normal.

I also randomly get an occasional door chime that stays on when I turn the key on engine on, regardless of the door being open or shut, and sometimes will keep chiming when I turn the key off. No text in the DIC on the dash. Door ajar switch and dash warning is 100% accurate to the door being open and shut.

Radio issues and door chime are not synonymous. They happen separate from the other as far as occurrence.

My theory is either a failing ignition switch that has a short in it telling the radio to kill power, and telling the door chime that it’s still in accessory mode.

Or, the door chime is from the door latch mechanism going bad.

I really just want my radio back. Any theories?