r/AskAMechanic

2006 toyota camry 2.4L. Tried to do the block test but it won’t even start now. It shakes when i try to start it

Just bought a 2019 Ram Promaster 2 weeks ago now. Came to find out there’s a crack/hole in the transmission that’s been JB welded. Dealer says he didn’t know about it, even though he’s had possession of this vehicle in his lot for 3 years! Anyway, he bought it at auction, CARFAX doesn’t say what auction. I’m trying to find details on the auction listing, I suspect he bought it messed up and tried to fix it. I see there are many auction houses and other resources online that only dealers have access to. If someone could help me with tracking this down that would be much appreciated!

Edit: I understand an as-is car is mostly as-is, with some nuance. What I’m trying to do is track down the auction sale which I suspect will have information about the defect, to prove that the dealer did in fact know about it, which he claims he didn’t.

It’s a lexus is250 with 198k miles if i need to replace the axle it is what it is but i’m just wondering

What’s this rubber piece called and what do I need to get it replaced.
My truck is a 2003 Silverado z71

Had to cut out my sway bar link and the grinder walked onto my sway bar a couple times. Is it ok? Can it be welded any other options?

I would say the gouges are maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Any advice appreciated!

I don’t know if you can hear it or not in the video but it makes like a roaring noise whenever the battery symbol comes up. When my foot is off the gas.

Hi! I have a 2015 fiat 500 sport.

Bought it used at 86k miles and swapped a couple of things that were bad per the inspection, including brakes and the rear left hub/bearing assembly (Moog 512480).

Now at 116k miles I hear a pretty loud droning noise at highway speeds, which is not affected by throttle/RPM/braking. It will sometimes quiet down with slight steering adjustments, but I have found no consistent significant difference in noise when steering frankly left or right.

Lifted the car up, checked all 4 wheels for play and found none. However the rear left bearing sounds awfully suspicious to my untrained ear. I know not all bad wheel bearings have play, so I was hoping someone with a trained ear could confirm my thoughts before I go in blind and swap it out.

It's going in to the shop soon either way for a check but I figured this would be an easy DIY fix.

TLDR : that's a bad rear left wheel bearing, right?

Hi all,

Hope this is the right Sub. Delete if not.

I bought an ex-WAV Citroen Berlingo in Jan 26. Its last MOT was done in-house in the large UK car dealership I purchased it from in Oct 25 (with no advisories - neither red or amber).

Went in for a service and MOT (same dealership, different branch) end of September and they’ve said in the Health Check that the rear springs are seriously corroded to the point of needing these fixed urgently. They also pointed out the duct tape they were legally not allowed to remove (see image), and can’t be sure if under the duct tape there’s a break.

Been on with the dealership today, they’re telling me the duct tape wasn’t on the last Health Check and are insinuating this was added after point of purchase (untrue - i’d have no reason to add that) and that the corrosion is typical wear and tear.

Given the info above, is this right? To me, it sounds really fishy.

1. Why is there duct tape on the springs? When was it added?
2. Why wasn’t the corrosion of the springs brought up as an advisory, as least an amber one, in the last MOT?

Any advice on this would be helpful. Do you’s think the springs are as bad as the mechanic is saying?

What are the implications if I don’t? Any big issues?

2006 Accord Euro
I’ve just had some lowering springs installed, and there’s this weird clanking sound coming form the right side rear wheel.
Could it be like a loose bolt or something

I had my strut mount replaced and I noticed now there's a super small gap where the spring ends. It used to sit right against that rubber part before the new mount. Do you think it's fine?

Just take it to the dealer or is this something that’s easily fixable?
Specs listed below:

2023 Mercedes-Benz c300 Coupe
m264 Turbo inline 4

As title suggest just wanna know whats making this sound ty for your help.

2015 ecoboost mustang 93k miles. I constantly hear thumping noises, when I take off from a stop or when I change into drive from park, etc.. I did the test where you brake and put it in drive and rev. I can see some movement and hear some clicking. What do you think?

I’ve been having issues where my driveshaft(?) sounds like a chipmunk and they’re known to have u joint problems. We replaced it with a used driveshaft and it still makes the noise, chances both of them are shot aren’t very slim due to the mileage on the “new” one but i’m just asking to see if anyone can pin point this noise…. Took the driveshaft off the diff to dolly it while moving and when we put it back on it started making this noise, the video doesn’t do it a lot and i can’t seem to catch it on vid when it’s really doing it. The first chirp noise is at 55 seconds

I’m not mechanic but I feel like this engine doesn’t sound quite normal? Could be wrong but wanted to get a mechanics opinion. Also worried about this stupid CVT so I may be in my head about the car in general.

So the vehicle is a 2018 Honda crv , had thick white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Since its my dad's i never looked at it as I can change parts but not a mech. So someone told him the turbo was bad. I got it all taken apart to find So much oil on both sides ( intake and exhaust). The pictures are of both. Where could this oil be coming from. Since I dont think it should be the inlet side.the second to last picture is some sort of diaphragm. Seems to be coming from there but it doesn't seem damaged. Any help would be appreciated.