r/AskAMechanic

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So yesterday I changed the oil on my 2017 honda accord sport my car takes 4.4 quartz i bought a 5 quart gallon i filled it up until the gallon marked 1Q idk if i over filled it or didn't put enough but i then checked the dipstick and it was marking that the oil was above the maximum dot i went to do something and after 15 minutes before I drove the car I checked it again this time it was marking barely above the minimum dot. On my way home i noticed the car weird i would step on the gas and it would feel stuck then like a jump and then accelerate fine. When I got home I took a 3 hour nap as I work graveyard then before driving the car again I checked the oil & marked in-between the minimum and maximum dot. I left it like that then later that night on my way to work the check engine light came on and now I'm worried what if I put too much oil or just not enough. After my shift I had a co worker check the oil level it was still the same in-between minimum & maximum he said to to it off and hopefully that fixes the check engine light issue but I was not comfortable about the idea so I took the car to Autozone to get it scanned and it's coming back to my catalytic converter being bad. Now idk if it really is that or not just seems weird that after the oil change the car felt weird then the light came on if anyone has some idea or know anything of what it can actually be I would really ask it. Thanks

My car recently warned for a low coolant level. I refilled it but at the same time I saw a small amount of fluid in front of the engine bay. I decided to bring the car to a mechanic and stated that the car was leaking coolant.

The mechanic got back to me today and informed that he had pressure tested the cooling system and that it was not leaking any pressure and that he could not see any signs of coolant leaking. I picked up the car drove home for 15 minutes and checked the engine bay again when I got home. Now there seems to be a bigger leak than previously. Video was taken when I got home.

Any idea what fluid the car is leaking and why? How urgent is it to get it fixed?

Just get it as a project
Not starting
Check fuel, spark and compression and alls good.
What my next steps

It gives me 2 different banks on these 3 codes. I was told by a mechanic that these are being caused by a bad oxygen sensor. Any way to figure out which sensor it is without going to a shop ?

2003 Lexus GS430 (4.3 v8)

Could this be the culprit?
MacPherson suspension
Renault Twingo 2 RS

2002 Acura RSX base model

Not too sure how to describe the noise but heres a video. Ignore how dirty my car is, it rained recently.

Hey all,

Asking here since my local Toyota dealership has already taken 2 stabs at this and I’m getting a little frustrated.

2024 Tacoma SR 2wd, turbo 4-cyl, auto, 66k miles.

Took it in for service about a month ago. Oil, tires, brakes. They recommended replacing the PCV per mfg timelines, I agreed. Next morning, all these lights and warnings lit up as soon as I cranked:

- Drive-start control malfunction
- System malfunction
- Check engine

Took it back up there, they said it was throwing an evap error. They cleared it, said my gas cap was probably loose (it wasn’t), and sent me on my way. Ran fine for a week, but then I hop in my truck one morning and it all comes back on. It’s my work truck, so I took it right back, they gave me a loaner and said they’d keep me posted throughout the day. Never heard back so I go there at end of the day and they say it’s stuck on the lift and won’t crank.

They have it two more days, say it was some part (I honestly can’t remember what), but they replaced it and I should be good to go.

That was two weeks ago and first thing this morning they all popped up again.

I apologize, I’m a contractor, not a mechanic, so this is out of my expertise. But at this point it’s making me nervous because the last thing I want is to be stuck on a job site hours from home and not able to fulfill my obligations to my clients.

Anyone seen this before and know the fix so I can tell the shop what to check?

I got this error on dashboard for “drive system malfunction, contact service” and then when I restarted the car it cleared and didn’t come back but i went to my mechanic and he checked through computer and it showed that it’s the turbo sensor.

He told me to buy the sensor so I went to buy it from Audi OEM sensor and we put it but still showed the error on new one and doesn’t want to be cleared, the he checked by multimeter and checked all wiring till ecu and also cleaned it but not solving, so he told me to leave car overnight and he will check more.

Then he called me morning and told me that the issue is related to ECU and the ECU will need repair.

Just most of the people who had this issue online they said it’s either the sensor or wiring so I’m just worried if he misdiagnosed or it’s correct that it’s the ECU before I repair it.

Car is Audi A4 2022

2010 Prius 370k miles.

Changed the spark plugs the coils packs. Cleaned the egr valve. Accidentally ripped out the wires from the pig tail if the MAP. Sliced in used pigtail from junkyard. Car starts engine picks up rpms. Can shift into park for moment. Then dies and says check hybrid system. After seconds start it stays dead. I had to jump my battery because it died while working on the car. My neighbor left the car in on mode while he was checking the codes.

Do you guys think my 12v battery is dead?

Or could I have damaged the egr valve sensor?

From these pictures it doesn’t even look that bad, the car was taken in because I thought I had wheel related issue so I’m not sure if even paying 900 for this is justifiable, let alone almost 1200.
This is for a 2019 VW Jetta.