u/WinterTourist25

Can anyone recommend a good ODB2 reader so I can figure out my SOH?

I have finally gotten through all the hoops to get our non-profit approved for free Google Workspace.

I am trying to figure out the best way to set up officer emails with our .org domain.

My first thought was just to create users, like president@, treasurer@, secretary@, etc.

As I understand things, this has a few drawbacks:

• The owner of the account can delete emails, and after like 25 days they are gone for good.
• When a new officer is elected, it is quite a chore to reset the password, disable 2FA, and re-define the user with the new person's information.
• Only 1 person monitors and responds to the email box.
• Accounts consume licenses.

So my second thought was to use Google Groups. This way I could simply add and remove users from the group. It also has the benefit of having an archive of all messages through the group that users cannot delete. It also has the benefit that multiple users could monitor a group, so that no incoming message falls through the cracks. Groups don't consume licenses. I understand you can have up to 2000 users and we will have less than 20 so this is not an issue for us.

The biggest problem I see with groups is that users will still be using their private email addresses. So when an email comes in to them, they can choose to reply directly to the person, which would bypass the archive. Or, they can choose to reply to the group. I think I can set up the group so that the emails appear to come from groupname@ rather than the private email of the officer?

So what is the best approach?

I am leaning towards each officer being a dedicated user. It sucks to have to play around so much when new officers come in, and I worry about officers deleting emails that should be retained, but this way emails come in from name@org and go out as name@org every time.

I suppose officers can set up email forwarders to their private emails even so, and then respond through them and still bypass the official email account if they really wanted to.

When I click on the PayPal Checkout Button, it just does a screen refresh and nothing happens.

If I disable Ublock Origin, it works as expected.

Running firefox.

We bought our Ioniq5 used and I haven't read the owner's manual yet.

When I push the unlock button on the driver's door, the doors unlock. But when I push the lock button, nothing happens. Why?

Ever since the last firmware update, very often my Bambu A1 is failing to home the Z axis when you start printing. It will move the horizontal beam up the vertical gantry to about the half-way point and then start trying to touch the bed (in air). After a few attempts it gives up and gives an error about failing to home the axis.

If I power off and back on and recalibrate it often works for one print, but then fails on the next.

We are new EV owners. Took our first road trip today that required charging on the road.

First impression: This is way harder than it should be.

Car alerted us we needed to charge, so I fired up ABPR and found a CCS charger nearby. We go there. It is a Chargepoint charger. It took longer to go through the song and dance of downloading and signing up for the app than it did to charge the car!

Why don't these things work like a gas pump? Swipe your card and go!

We are new to EVs with this Iconiq 5.

We charge at home with a level 1 charger. It only displays how many amps it is set to pull (12).

I would like to keep track of our monthly "fuel" cost to charge the vehicle.

Is there a device I can clamp on or plug the charger into that will keep a running total of how much power has been consumed?

Evidently the car does not keep track of this itself.

Edit to add: I don't want to do any manual calculations or keeping track of when the car was plugged in/unplugged. I'm not always the family member who plugs/unplugs the car. I want a device that can track and display this automatically.

We just bought a 2023 SEL. We only use the Level 1 charger that came with it. We can get about 50 miles of charge overnight from it and spouse's daily commute is only 20 so we pretty much stay at 80%. But I understand we have a CCS connector and NACS is now the growing standard? Should I have a CCS to NACS adapter in the car for charging on trips? What do you recommend?

Is there a way to identify CCS chargers for trip planning?

I've had Terminix over to talk about getting a repair bond on my propety.

The home had liquid treatment (drill holes in the slab around the house) some time ago.

The salesman is pushing the bait stations.

Evidently the bait stations are cheaper?

I understand the liquid treatment is good for up to 10 years. the bait stations require constant inspection and maintenance?

Sounds like both of them kill off the termites, but the bait stations give you an indicator if they are present which the liquid does not.

Which is best?

Hi, we just bought a 2023 Iconiq 5. It had a dead 12V battery on delivery, so we had to wait a day while they put a new one in.

When the ICCU fails, does the car alert you immediately, or is it just alerting when the 12V battery voltage drops too low?

In other words, will a new 12V battery mask a failed ICCU?

I am creating a water level monitoring device using the Arduino UNO and the Botletics SIM7000G shield.

It will be run in a remote location with no wired power available. I have the device wired up with a 3.7V Lipo, which is plugged into the SIM7000G's battery connector.

A solar panel will provide power during the day to charge the battery.

The SIM7000G has a charging circuit, including a green DONE LED that presumably will illuminate when charging is complete.

When I run the Botletics Example LTE_Demo code, and I issue the "b" command, I get:

Modem> b

---> AT+CBC

<--- +CBC: 0,87,4142

VBat = 4142 mV

---> AT+CBC

<--- +CBC: 0,87,4143

VPct = 87%

The first parameter should be charging status:

<bcs> (Battery Charge Status):

0: Not charging (or module is powered by an external source/DC)

1: Charging

2: Battery is full (charging complete)

Obviously I am connected over USB, so maybe I am seeing 0 because we are connected to USB voltage? I would expect the USB voltage coming in through the Arduino would be charging the battery?

I'm trying to figure out how to use the SIM7000G to charge the battery and report that it is doing so.

I am creating a water level monitoring device using the Arduino UNO and the Botletics SIM7000G shield.

It will be run in a remote location with no wired power available. I have the device wired up with a 3.7V Lipo, which is plugged into the SIM7000G's battery connector.

A solar panel will provide power during the day to charge the battery.

The SIM7000G has a charging circuit, including a green DONE LED that presumably will illuminate when charging is complete.

When I run the Botletics Example LTE_Demo code, and I issue the "b" command, I get:

Modem> b

---> AT+CBC

<--- +CBC: 0,87,4142

VBat = 4142 mV

---> AT+CBC

<--- +CBC: 0,87,4143

VPct = 87%

The first parameter should be charging status:

<bcs> (Battery Charge Status):

0: Not charging (or module is powered by an external source/DC)

1: Charging

2: Battery is full (charging complete)

Obviously I am connected over USB, so maybe I am seeing 0 because we are connected to USB voltage? I would expect the USB voltage coming in through the Arduino would be charging the battery?

I'm trying to figure out how to use the SIM7000G to charge the battery and report that it is doing so.

Hi all,

We have just picked up our first EV, a Hyundai Iconiq 5. I want to install a 240V receptacle for a Level 2 charger.

I've watched some YouTube videos. One of them talks about having a current monitor installed on the panel so that the Level 2 charger can back off its current draw if the house is pulling too much current due to other things in the house running (oven, dryer, AC, I suppose).

But the links to the items are dead in their video.

Here is the receptacle that seems to be highly recommended:

Hubbell HBL9450A Straight Blade Device Receptacle, RTP, Industrial Grade, 3-Pole 4-Wire Grounding, 50A 125/250V, 14-50R
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9VO7W

What do you all recommend for a Level 2 charger that can talk to a current monitoring device to alter its power draw as needed?

In my city, code says I have to have a GFCI-protected circuit if I am installing a 14-50 receptacle in my garage. Evidently this can lead to nuisance trips when a Level 2 charger that also has GFCI protection in it.

So they recommend hard-wiring.

I am using Bambu Studio 2.4.0.70.

When I send my prints to the printer, the file name comes out as the filament parameters (0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 7%infill.3mf).

But this is not the actual name of the file being printed.

I want the proper file names, so I can reprint from the printer itself rather than having to reslice and resend from Bambu Studio.

Under Project I have gone to Edit and changed the Project Name. That did not help. When I print, on the "Send" screen the name reads the same as Project Name. This is the same as the file name.

Why is it printing a .3mf file with the print process information as the name? How do I fix it?

Hi all,

I am building a water level detection and warning device based on an Arduino UNO and this cellular unit:

SIM7000 LTE CAT-M1 NB-IoT Cellular + GPS + Antenna Shield Kit for Arduino (SIM7000G)

The idea is that when water levels reach certain points, the device will send out text messages. It will also send out a system check and water level status update once a day.

I only need to send texts. What kind of SIM card would I buy for this? Looking for low cost and unlimited texts.

I'm not sure how to go about sending the texts. Ultimately, there could be as many as 3,000 users that would need to receive the alert. But this could take hours to send and so would not be suitable for an emergency message. I could text to just security staff, and then they could sound an audible alarm or something. But ideally I'd like a system where people can self subscribe and unsubscribe to receive texts from the alert system.

I know there are systems like Twillio that can help with mass texting but I don't know any details about the system.

Anyway my first task is to activate the SIM7000 with a low-cost texting service. Can you provide guidance?

I'm pretty sure the RV shops just farm it out and mark it up.

Where is a place I can get an alignment for a Class C RV?