u/Working_Tip_5391

Wouldn’t let me crosspost my last post about my issue into this group so ill just give another run down (or if you want to revisit my last post that works too) sorry for the long message.. keep in mind the car was running spectacular just before all this.

About almost a month ago now, i was driving my car to work, had a little fun messing with a mustang on the hwy, pretty sure my water pump leaked a little when i stopped the car to park, next day it completely shut off while i was going almost 70mph, tried starting it again when i came to a stop, crank no start, check codes and those were all the codes i got and still get. Mostly starts with dme main relay and then the rest follow.

Tried replacing the main relay under the hood, nothing, multimeter tested the pins for the dme main relay, tested a few pins at the ecu connector and all seemed fine (i believe atleast.. i know nothing about electrical) well a week goes by where i wasn’t able to mess with the car and next time i go out to it, its completely dead, wouldnt hold a charge for nothing and kept dropping to 5v almost within minutes making it extremely hard to test anything .. so i unplug my alternator and since then the battery will stay at v12.3+.. so that “solves” the voltage issue but now back to the crank no start, well after checking a bunch of fuses and some experimenting, i found fuse 78 popped which on my model, shows its related to the engine itself on the diagram.. so i just tried to stick a new fuse in and it popped upon contact in my finger tips, with ignition on. So i tried with ignition off and still popped. Disconnected negative terminal and put new one in and connected back up, popped again. So i tried unplugging things one by one down the line of things on that circuit, so far did the water pump and cas module, fuse still pops with those unplugged. Thats where ive left off on it

Im so incredibly lost and cant seem to find anything online about how people fixed their similar issues.. i dont know anything about electrical and what i need to do, but im just lost as to what is causing this short at fuse 78, is it worth to keep unplugging things on that circuit until fuse stops popping? is it bad to keep blowing fuses like this? a buddy told me to take the fuse box out and check for a break in a line but i feel like trying to find a single broken wire in my cars harness with be like finding a needle in a haystack..

hey yall, so i previously had made a thread about this, currently the car is having a crank no start issue, actually it only cranks on a charger because thats the only time its got enough voltage to crank.. to start from the beginning as quick as i can, one day i was driving to work, pushed it a little bit on the hwy but nothing too hard at all, as soon as the car came to a stop to back into my spot it was pissing coolant, a decent amount too, checked the reservoir and didnt look like it dropped a bit, checked for leaks throughout the day or any signs of a broken hose, couldnt find anything, drove fine no leaks until 1-2 days later i was on the way home from work and i was passing a car, not even building a full lb of boost and the car just fell on its face and died, luckily was able to get it pulled over and stopped with almost 0 brakes or steering and got pulled home.

so after the codes i was getting i was just gambling on it being the main dme relay so i got one and swapped it on up at the dme box, nothing, so i started testing x60001 connector pins 26 and 15 and then checked wire 1 and 2 on the back of the main relay, along with the rest of the wires just to make sure, from what i believe everything seems fine.. going to do a recheck today while car is on charger since that is the only way it will stay at 12v.. not even minutes of it being off a charger and it will drop to 5-6v and everything starts going crazy, headlights flickering and fuses in the junction box ticking like crazy until it just completely drains and dies. I did check fuse 37 and 4 in the glovebox with ignition on and they tested good.

I grabbed the battery from my moms mini cooper, which is the same size and everything as my current battery, still wouldn’t start and brought back 2acb and 2acc codes immediately after clearing, the one thing i didnt do was check to see if that battery also drains like mine does but it was plugged in for a bit while i messed around and it didnt die. So i do think my battery is bad but its only 2 years old so something has to be failing and draining my power..
it cant just be the battery because even with a good working one it still had issues, granted i didnt register that one i tried but you only have issues with unregistered batteries after a few days or so from my experience.

Just extremely lost, its been close to a month now i believe that the car has just sit in our shop at home and i need to get it back running. I am no diagnostics mechanic i can just figure easy shit out and pull off/install parts.. so this is really throwing me.

Any help is appreciated, miss my baby🤣

hey yall so i had got some r1concepts brakes all the way around with pads and as im going to install the new pads, i notice one of the pads doesnt have the clip that helps lock the pad into the caliper..

the pad that goes onto the piston has the clip but not the other pad. Am i fucked and need to buy a new set of pads with the clips or new calipers that support this style?