u/XandertheWriter

96 ZJ 4.0l blowing 20A fuse when checking for parasitic draw

Hello all! Foreword: I think that an alternator diode broke, and the alternator is creating a large amperage parasitic draw, or there's a short somewhere.

'96 ZJ 4.0l is experiencing some pretty significant draw when it's off (greater than 20amp). At this point, it could also be the battery (bought it new 2.5months ago when car was purchased), as I left for 10 days and came back to a battery reading 6.5v. It is failing to hold 12.2v. I have installed a kill switch on negative terminal as temporary band-aid.

My

When checking for parasitic draw (by removing negative terminal, using multimeter at highest amp setting to connect between negative cable and negative terminal) there is a small arc between multimeter probe and negative terminal, which is now confirmed as more than 20a as this fuse and setting were rated for 20a.

Is this indicative of a short somewhere, or is this some easily avoided problem I'm unaware of? Is there some "startup inrush current" that happens if battery is connected? If so, how do I avoid it or test for parasitic draw some other way?

Thank you! I can provide pictures if requested

Edit: all physical knobs in OFF position, key out, doors closed (hood open) for 30 minutes, no lights on, etc.

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u/XandertheWriter — 10 days ago
▲ 2 r/JeepZJ

96 ZJ 4.0l blowing 20A fuse when checking for parasitic draw

Hello all! Foreword: I think that an alternator diode broke, and the alternator is creating a large amperage parasitic draw, or there's a short somewhere.

'96 ZJ 4.0l is experiencing some pretty significant draw when it's off (greater than 20amp). At this point, it could also be the battery (bought it new 2.5months ago when car was purchased), as I left for 10 days and came back to a battery reading 6.5v. It is failing to hold 12.2v. I have installed a kill switch on negative terminal as temporary band-aid.

My

When checking for parasitic draw (by removing negative terminal, using multimeter at highest amp setting to connect between negative cable and negative terminal) there is a small arc between multimeter probe and negative terminal, which is now confirmed as more than 20a as this fuse and setting were rated for 20a.

Is this indicative of a short somewhere, or is this some easily avoided problem I'm unaware of? Is there some "startup inrush current" that happens if battery is connected? If so, how do I avoid it or test for parasitic draw some other way?

Thank you! I can provide pictures if requested

Edit: all physical knobs in OFF position, key out, doors closed (hood open) for 30 minutes, no lights on, etc. when fuses are blowing

reddit.com
u/XandertheWriter — 10 days ago

'96 Jeep ZJ upper ball joint stuck inside of installation cup

Used wrong cup at wrong time. New balljoint stuck inside. Would like to save both (save Balljoint, sacrificial cup is option #2)

u/XandertheWriter — 29 days ago

1996 Jeep ZJ 4.0 Limited brake caliper slide pin bolt snapped off inside during reinstallation

I know the following routes are available, I'd like a perspective focused on lowest cost with quickest turnaround:

  1. Get new calipers. Most expensive option, and involves doing a brake bleed which I'd rather not do due to time constraints. My last resort that I know will work

  2. Take that pin out and replace it with this slide pin/bolt replacement kit from O'Reilly's. This is my preferred route, but I am not getting many forum hits for doing that exact procedure. Is it really a "wiggle out" situation like ClaudeAI is telling me, or is it a "get a strong fucking press and pray" situation? O'Reilly's has the part available immediately and they claim to fit my car, and I don't necessarily have to do a brake bleed.

  3. Extract the screw. Every part on this car has been a "worst case scenario" to remove/reinstall, I cannot imagine that extracting the screw will 100% solve all the problems. I'd replace the bolt with the same bolt from kit on #2.

  4. Some other solution I haven't thought of.

Ultimately, my first question is: how difficult will #2 actually be? Assume rusted and seized every step of the way. What route will actually save the most time/effort in terms of cost?

Thank you!

u/XandertheWriter — 1 month ago
▲ 7 r/JeepZJ

Tie rod rubbing against sway bar links

Tie rod connection to drag link is rubbing against the underside of the drag link when turning right. This is causing both abrasion to the parts and a limit to the turn radius.

Recently replaced track bar. I want to replace both the tie rod and drag link, but I don’t want to buy thicker parts and have even worse issues.

As far as I am aware, the control arms (upper and lower) are stock, and I have a suspicion that the axle is slightly more rearward than it should be. But that wouldn’t fix this particular issue as far as I am aware.

I’m hoping the issue is sagging due to deteriorated tie rod/drag link causing rubbing. But really, my opinion is worth zilch; what do yall think?

u/XandertheWriter — 2 months ago