Ethical sales

tl;dr: when do you stop signing new contracts and tell people you’re full?

Alright here’s an ethical question I have for you guys, gals, and non binary pals.

I’ve been in roofing and roofing sales and roofing ownership for a combined 16 years. I mostly deal with roofing, but also sub out siding, decks, blah blah blah, anything with storm damage I’ll do it.

I even contract interior work, but I scream and cry about it the whole way.

Most of the work I do is related to hail, and unless it’s a banger of a storm, there isn’t an immediate “oh my god fix my property today or I’m suffering more damage by the minute”. Gives me time to supplement with insurance, get approval, do the work, yada yada.

Recently there was a big wind storm in my neck of the woods. Whole buildings flat on the ground. Walls torn from homes, rafters, decking, roof completely missing. Decks in neighbors’ yard, tree limbs through siding poking into the living room.

When you’re in a storm environment like that do you only sign people that you can fulfill right away, or do you sign anyone that wants to put ink on paper? Do you tell people they are the 50th person in line and it might be two months before you can reframe their house and put new siding/deck/roof on it? Or do you hem and haw and say there are people ahead of you but we can do it!

Just trying to get my bearings of when to turn people away. I’ve never worked a storm quite like this, and definitely never had to worry about “if I sign another person we might be hurting them by putting them at the back of the line, maybe someone else should handle this”.

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u/Zorlai — 3 days ago

Sub rules

Just making a post to make sure everyone is aware of rule 4 which states:

  • No Promoting Your Marketing Company

You know who you are. We do not knock the hustle, but this is not the place to promote your marketing tools to other roofers/roofing sales members.

Post will be removed and you will be removed from the group.

I've done my best to help keep spam and advertising down on this sub, but it happens so often I'm just going to start banning people that can't follow the rules. Just didn't want any confusion or crying saying people didn't know.

I love all the good content we get here and trying to help each other. I get enough spam calls from "Jesse at ABC 123 Marketing Dipshits for Hire" I don't want to see it every time I check in here.

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u/Zorlai — 1 month ago
▲ 4 r/LandscapingTips+1 crossposts

Lawn advice

USDA Zone 5a/5b, cool-season lawn region, hot dry summers, cold winters, full sun.

4,00 sf yard. The grass has been destroyed by two dogs running and digging, and by an over aggressive mowing by me that cut the lawn too short and killed it. A lot of areas have very compacted bare dirt. I plan to aerate and rake the "lawn" and apply a layer of soil and compost to level and flatten the yard.

I know nothing about grass types, but want something that will handle hot dry months with full sun, as well as freezing cold with thick snow. Googling has landed me on GCI Turf Cool Blue for cold-climate self repair and aggressive spreading. My goal is to have a lawn that I regret planting because I have to fight to keep it from taking over my house. No idea if that exists. Again from Google, what I see is get something with a Kentucky Bluegrass mix.

Any input would be great.

u/Zorlai — 2 months ago
▲ 3 r/golftips+1 crossposts

Extreme out to in swing path (reupload with video because I'm not smart)

Reupload with video, I didn't make the right kind of post last time so video didn't load.

Club path -8.7 attack angle -6.5

I am struggling with a very over the top, out to in swing path. My biggest issue is I'm used to this swing, and can hit a 9i 155ish with this club with a predictable ball flight and pull fade.

That being said, I am about an 18 handicap, so by predictable I mean when I make contact like I plan to. I hit 90 shots today, 68 of them did this, the remaining 22 were chunks that went about 120 yards. I don't really ever blade my irons, my miss is fat.

When I practice shallowing the club or dropping my hands with my back to the target, I chunk the ground significantly before the ball and get about 100 yards out of it. I've tried everything google or youtube golf or chatgpt has thrown at me about trying to swing with a more neutral path.

Roast me, mock me, blink-182 me, but please for the sake of every score card that I've marked with triple bogeys, somebody help me.

u/Zorlai — 2 months ago

Tips on certain holes

I’m not sure exactly how to write this without it turning into a long winded post, but basically do you guys deal with or know how to solve mental issues with certain holes? This is a local course I play over a hundred times a year.

Hole 1: 311 yard drive, easy peasy

Hole 3: 185 yd drive, always hitting around 200 hundred and over into the hole two fairway on the right.

Hole 7: 290 yd drive, easy peasy

Hole 9: 160 yd driver, one of my worst drives ever, but usually around 200 on this hole too, usually off to the right near trees.

It just seems like I consistently have holes that I play okay for my skill level, and then holes that always have these awful drives. It’s like a Bermuda Triangle of mental block where no matter what I do I can’t get off the box in a reasonable fashion.

Ready to quit golf coaching lessons and hire a golf therapist instead. If anyone has any mental tips for “nemesis golf holes” I’d love to hear it. 🙃

u/Zorlai — 2 months ago

Driver? 220
3 wood? 220
5 wood? 220
6i? believe it or not, 220.

but then my 7i, 8i, 9i all go 150, my PW goes 125, and my sand wedge goes 85. Putter goes wherever the hole isn't.

I've hit on simulators, ive hit out doors. I've paid for coaching, i've spent time practicing, i've submitted videos to swing tweaks.

The obvious answer would be poor strike quality or poor swing mechanics, but is there a "thing" that is like "oh yea people that hit a range of clubs the same distance all do this stupid thing, fix it ya dummy"?

Pic of 6i shot data attached

6i

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u/Zorlai — 2 months ago