u/applepie9815

Disclaimer: never worked with DJTT and my CAD files were built from the ground up, I used the OEM shell as reference but didn't use any of its original measurements as to work as a fully functional and 3d printable project.

Modeled up a shell replacement that is slightly slimmer than the OEM shell. I also split the entire shell into 3 separate parts. As you can see, it completely gets rid of the rubber grip for the side buttons but I wanted to make this a complete replacement for the original. The middle part is completely optional to print for myself. It cost under $6 of filament if I can remember and if you print only the top and bottom, it was just under 7 hours with PETG. I bought new buttons and replaced the crystal clear ones with these "smoke" clear arcade buttons I found on this arcade fight stick website, each button was about $1.50 or $2.50 I think. Just wanted to share my final build of this. Going to order a crystal clear resin print of the middle piece to show off the interior electric elements.

Edit: just wanted to point out, I don't use this for making music or anything anymore. I use it for gaming like playing Rhythm games or something else that works with this form factor of a controller. I use a midi to keyboard translator and works well with no issues

About a month ago I designed a replacement shell for this midi controller and it's fully flushed out. This is not a copy paste of the original OEM design from the original company. It's slimmer than the OEM shell parts and the entire shell is separated into 3 main pieces but can be printed and used with only the top and bottom shells if you like an exposed look to it. Overall, printing the entire shell costs about $4 - $10 in filament (depends on the type of material and if you change the print settings). Nice if I had a resin printer to print the middle and bottom pieces for a clear look to the bottom half.

Bought brand new arcade buttons from a seller for fightcade setups. Redesigning away from the OEM shell was difficult but definitely do-able.

This an update to my previous post from last week. I updated the files on thingiverse (this is the project) and the new files are version 7. It's 3 pieces to print that are complete in about 30 min or less. As seen in the pics, the puck is slimmer than the OEM puck and I also added the charging slot to prevent the open puck from easily sliding off.

My files are completely free to download. The open puck has been pretty awesome to mess with since I got it last week and I can use my steam controller with the switch, Xbox, my phone for Android emulation gaming, and can still be used with PC. If you try this mod, thank the original dev for the project, I just made this shell for the mod.

Next I want to make this usable with Mechanism's Basegrip for the steam controller. I don't have this yet but I want to get one soon to use with my phone

[ Edit: link to the STL files if anyone wants to print this

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7390187 ]

Not sure if anyone has played around with the Open Puck mod but I did and it cost me $5 for the microcontroller and then probably like $0.10 to model and print the magnetic shell for it. Just wanted to make this magnetic to not lose the puck when I take it with me. I can easily put it in the bag in a smaller compartment but it felt right just adding magnets and attaching it to the SC.

Edit: next on my modding list is trying the Steam Brick mod, since I have a spare and working screen maybe I can look into modeling a new shell for this mod and to also try and replace the current fan with one of the tiny ones from Noctua I don't have one of their small fans yet but I need to get one for a different project anyway so trying this out for a steam brick mod and fan replacement mod would be interesting to try out next.

EDIT: I made a final redesign after this test fit worked really well. The final design doesn't use the rubber outer band or the rubber feet. This is to get away from it looking like a direct copy of the original. Also I made adjustments to the bottom shell that has built in buttons for the side buttons. Getting rid of the rubber outer band also allows for a fully translucent resin build. With the new adjustments, the resin prints from JLCPCB comes out at around $55 total

Please don't request the files, I got a request to not send it out to anyone. Also I'm not affiliated with the original team, this is just a personal project.

I had this project for the last week to redesign the shell for the Midi Fighter to be 3d printed with reenforced walls with supports and everything and it came out really well. The walls are a bit thicker so I don't have to worry about it flexing.

I sent my design files to JLCBCB to be printed in crystal clear resin. Total shell upgrade cost is $40 from them (shipping included). Optionally, I also bought new arcade buttons to fit the clear design, it was an extra $60 for all the buttons.

I designed the shell for the Midi Fighter 3D. My controller was sitting in the closet for years, I got mine back in 2014 and stopped using it in 2019. Since then, the type of plastic was degrading over the course of time sitting in the closet and started to have a sticky tar-like residue and it rubbed off and made my hands smell like tar or something.

If anyone is interested in the files and want to give new life to their Midi Fighter like me, I can share the STL or STEP files to be 3D printed once I finalize the size of the entire thing. I'm looking into resin printing a crystal clear shell for mine to see all the components for my controller.

EDITED: To clarify, I never worked on the original design for the Midi Fighter, this is purely a redesign and per the request, I won't be sharing the files I made but i will just share an update if my design works so I can print in other colors/materials or swap with keyboard switches instead for some unknown reason.

I made an original redesign shell for the Midi Fighter 3D. My controller was sitting in the closet for years, I got mine back in 2014 and stopped using it in 2019. Since then, the type of plastic was degrading over the course of time sitting in the closet and started to have a sticky tar-like residue and it rubbed off and made my hands smell like tar or something.

EDITED: I'm looking into resin printing a crystal clear shell for mine to see all the components for my controller.

This chart is based on the member pricing

EDIT 2: I found out from the comments that $140 is for newcomers or people who buy new club membership cards.

So at the end of April, Round 1 increased their highest price from $120 and introduced the new $140 credit amount. I calculated everything in the picture above. If you know a bit of match, you can do the calculations yourself too but this started when I was wondering how their bonus points were calculated and after doing the calculations myself, it makes sense. Essentially I wanted to see if their claimed bonus $ amount was accurate and it is. I also calculated the average point per $. I don't see many people doing this and I was just curious. However, this now justifies why $120 is the most bang for your buck. Alone with the average point per $ , that is the best amount you will get. Sucks that they keep increasing the price, I remember when it was $100 then $110, and now $120. All for snacks, baby wipes, and tissue boxes in a claw machine now. (I mostly play racing games and rhythm games, but some claw games from time to time)

Edit: The highlighted average numbers basically mean:

Red/Orange : not worth it for regulars, more for people who want to just try out Round 1

Yellow: you are getting a better amount

Green: this gets you the best point per dollar value

Blue: overkill, not much of a huge jump in difference but planning on staying for much longer