One section of grout staying dark for a long time
▲ 13 r/Tile

One section of grout staying dark for a long time

I finished this tile floor (the first I've done) about 24 hours ago. I did the grout in three sections, used Mapei Ultracolor FA plus in an off-white. The first two sections dried out pretty quickly, like in the first four hours or so. I put on the last one at about 8 p.m., and by that point it was getting cooler, like in the 60s, and I had the windows open. But here I am the next day and it hasn't dried out.

I did clean the last section with a sponge more than the others because I was worried about haze. But the sponge was very dry and it wasn't an incredibly large amount of additional washing.

There is definitely no moisture coming from below. Subfloor was well-prepped and this is installed over ditra. It's also very clearly happening only in the area where the last batch of grout was applied.

I put a space heater pointing into the room a couple hours ago, but so far no noticeable change. Do I just wait this out? Anything else I should do?

u/batardo — 11 days ago

Frustrated with hard maple

I'm making a large hard maple tabletop and have been struggling with the finish on it. I want something a bit warmer than the wood's natural color, kind of like an aged-maple look. I have:

  1. Mixed TransTint aged maple dye with Minwax OMP and tried brushing that on. It came out very blotchy.

  2. Sanded that off and tried mixing the TransTint in water and wiping/painting it on. Blotchy.

  3. Sanded that off and tried spraying TransTint in water and wiping. It's clearly better, but is uneven. The water is getting into the pores in some parts of the boards more than others, which is creating a sort of blotchy effect without it actually being blotchy.

I have danish oil, tung oil, BLO and a bunch of General Finishes water-based poly. I'm considering what to try next but am not sure. I've tested the oils on a scrap piece and they all don't seem very warm at all. I also tested regular shellac (not that warm) and an amber shellac (too orange).

I'm debating putting some sort of pre-stain on and/or sanding to a finer grit (was at 150) and respraying the TransTint. I could also try spraying TransTint mixed in poly. Another option is to just give it up and put on a more natural finish, which I'm honestly pretty close to doing.

Any ideas?

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u/batardo — 3 months ago

Flattening a plane iron

I'm wondering what you all think about this situation. I'm trying to sharpen a plane iron and don't have much experience doing so.

I have a good process in place for getting the bevel -- I have a honing guide and all that. But the bottom needs to be as dead-flat as possible. You can use the so-called "ruler trick" to back-bevel it slightly to get around a not-flat back, but I'd like to just flatten the back so I don't have to worry about all that.

It seems to have a hump in the middle. So my strategy has been to put a piece of PSA sandpaper on a granite flat reference stone to get rid of material fast. I also have a diamond stone (sort of like an Atoma but cheaper/worse). But it's taking absolutely forever. I've been at it for maybe a couple hours total.

I'll move to water stones, but only after I get a basic level of flatness.

Any thoughts on how to handle this? I'm thinking about maybe focusing only on the first inch or so near the edge -- at least then it's less material to take off.

u/batardo — 3 months ago

Hand plane(s) to replicate moulding

Where do I start with this? I have some early 1900s baseboard cap patterns I'd like to replicate. I figure they must have done it by hand in those days, and I'm thinking it could be fun to try to reproduce them that way myself.

The pattern consists of a cove at the top followed by two large beads of the same size. So I feel like I could either find the radius of the beads and the cove, then try to get planes that match those profiles -- or I could template the whole profile and custom-make a plane and blade to do it.

Any advice on this or input on how it might have actually been done back in the day? I have seen both approaches in videos and tools, but not sure what the ins and outs are and which way would be easier.

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u/batardo — 3 months ago
▲ 1 r/wood

Planer burn

I don't have access to a lot of tools or a lot of time and would have done this differently if I did.

Anyway, I have a panel made of hard maple that I milled and glued up. One of the boards has three spots where it looks like the planer knives burned it a bit. I saw it when it came off the planer but didn't want to spend the time running everything through again...I was in a bit of a rush. It's odd, though, because it's not terribly dark. It's also been impossible to get out.

I have of course sanded it. I put some water on it to lift the grain, then sanded. I've also gone over it with a hand plane. No dice. It has to be pretty deep in there. Any ideas on how to handle this?

u/batardo — 4 months ago

I recently changed out a switch box fed by BX. After finishing I realized I forgot to run the aluminum bonding wire back in the box.

I know I should redo the whole thing, but any shortcuts to fix this? How big of an issue is it? Kicking myself right now.

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u/batardo — 5 months ago

Hi lighting experts - I'm rehabbing a small attic room to use as an office. Currently it has a regular light fixture in the middle of the room, which obviously isn't ideal.

I'm curious how you'd approach lighting this kind of space. I looked a bit at anti-glare recessed and regressed lighting, but am not sure that is the right way to go. I'm also unsure how many downlights to put there. I could have one at either end or a single one in the middle.

At a high level I want practical lighting that still can be warm and not glare-y. Dimmable is probably important because lighting conditions will vary considerably over the course of the day, and I like having natural light to whatever extent possible. But I truly have no idea what I'm doing.

Any advice much appreciated.

u/batardo — 6 months ago