πυκνὰ τὴν κεφαλὴν ἐπισείουσα

Aithiopika 1.21:

ἣ δὲ πολύν τινα χρόνον τὸ βλέμμα τῇ γῇ προσερείσασα, καὶ πυκνὰ τὴν κεφαλὴν ἐπισείουσα, λόγον τινὰ καὶ ἐννοίας ἀθροίζειν ἐῴκει·

The context is that she is being held captive by a pirate chieftain, who has asked her if she will marry him of her own free will. She is an upper-class virgin, in love with a different man, and is very brave but AFAICT is either shy as part of her personality or behaves shyly as part of the author's characterization of how a virtuous girl should behave in such a situation.

What does πυκνά mean here? Frequently? Wisely? Discreetly? The translation I looked at had "slowly," which didn't seem to match anything in the LSJ entry.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 2 days ago

Major and Laughy at a new set of URLs, old links broken

There is an open-source licensed book, Major and Laughy, Ancient Greek for Everyone: Essential Morphology and Syntax for Beginning Greek. I have always found it to be one of the best places to go for very clearly written explanations of beginner-level material on morphology. The publisher has changed the URL, and if you go to the old URL there is no forwarding or explanation, so it looks as though the book has disappeared. URLs for the individual chapters have all changed as well. The book is now at this URL:

https://pressbooks.pub/ancientgreek/

BTW, the University of Chicago's Logeion is temporarily down because of a security breach on the server.

u/benjamin-crowell — 2 days ago

PSA: turn off stealth translation of posts in Greek

For some time now, reddit has had a misfeature that non-transparently replaces a post with a machine translation into what it thinks is the user's native language. I got reminded of this recently when I made a post here that was in ancient Greek, and I started getting comments that didn't seem to make sense -- because the people writing the comments were seeing a machine translation into English. For example, people were criticizing the translation, which they attributed to me.

It's possible to turn off this misfeature for specific languages, but it seems like you can't turn it off globally. In the web browser interface, Go to Settings - Preferences - Language - Content Languages. You can turn it off for up to 10 languages.

Your experience will probably also depend on whether you're using the cell-phone interface or the web browser one. They also seem to fiddle around and change the behavior of this feature every 6 months or so.

It seems like a no-brainer that reddit should allow specific subreddits, such as this one, to turn off the feature throughout the subreddit. However, they don't really care as long as they're optimizing ad revenue. Just one more way in which tech billionaires are making the world worse in ways that nobody asked for.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 3 days ago
▲ 4 r/urushi

tiny craters/bubbles when applying ki with a brush

The title says what it is. Recently I noticed that, after curing, there were about a dozen tiny craters in the fairly thick coat of ki I'd just applied to a plate. I thought maybe it was something happening during curing. I had to fill them in with sabi.

But then I did another coat today on the same plate, and I noticed the same thing in the fresh ki as I was brushing it on. It looked like little bubbles. Maybe they're air bubbles? Nuclei formed by dust? I though they might be drops of vegetable oil that I hadn't succeeded in cleaning out of the brush when I got it ready to use, but that seems like it wouldn't make sense because urushi and oil are mutually soluble.

I kept brushing to try to get them to go away, and after about 5 min of steady brushing, the ki was getting tacky and they were almost all gone.

Have other people experienced this?

Another thing that occurred to me was that it might be because the ki was going bad. I think I bought it in April. I've had this portion of it in a 60 mL plastic syringe, inside a ziplock bag with a big dessicant packet, in the fridge. But maybe air or moisture is getting in and messing it up...? However, I don't see any signs of cured urushi collecting inside or gumming up the gasket on the plunger.

Or maybe the problem is something else having to do with the brush, like I have some kind of crud trapped in it (other than oil) that I'm not getting out.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 10 days ago

σκῶμμα

σχολαστικοὶ δύο ἐδυσφόρουν πρὸς ἀλλήλους ἐπὶ τῷ τοὺς πατέρας αὐτῶν ζῇν.

τοῦ δὲ ἑνὸς εἰπόντος· «θέλεις οὖν; ἀποπνίξει ἕκαστος ἡμῶν τὸν ἴδιον.»

«μὴ γένοιτο,» εἶπεν ὁ ἄλλος, «ἵνα μὴ πατραλοῖαι ἀκούσωμεν. ἀλλ᾽, εἰ βούλει, σὺ τὸν ἐμὸν σφάξον, κἀγὼ τὸν σόν.»

--Φιλόγελως

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u/benjamin-crowell — 11 days ago

Suggest a book about AI that explains the science while showing appropriate skepticism about the hype

I've been a computer hobbyist since about 1980, and I'm a lifelong science nerd. When LLMs became a big thing around 2022, I played around with them and interpreted them as snake oil or "stochastic parrots."

But things change over time, and although I initially saw the technology as 100% stupid, I see the current iteration as 90% stupid, 9% evil, and 1% ... holy shit, it's amazing that it can do that. One thing that's changed is that although the initial chatbots were LLMs and not much more, there are now more complex systems with a lot of moving parts, with an LLM as just one of the parts.

Has there been a book written yet at the semi-popular level that explains the science while showing appropriate skepticism about the hype? It's OK if your answer is "No, book publishing hasn't yet caught up." I'm not super interested in sociological, political, or environmental critiques of AI, since I have already formed my own provisional opinion on those aspects of it (that it's probably really bad). I'm open to reading a book that describes the science as it was a couple of years ago, or an interesting, well-researched book that is in some other way a near-miss in terms of my criteria.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 12 days ago
▲ 10 r/maker

Learning by doing: experience with using Dow Paraloid B-48 acrylic resin

This is not a description of something I built but rather a description of how I fiddled around with a particular material and learned some things. I didn't end up deciding that the material, Dow Paraloid B-48, was appropriate for my application, but I enjoyed the learning process and thought that this information might be useful to other people who might actually find this material was something they could use.

Dow Paraloid B-48 is a resin that is used by museum curators doing restoration work, and also by paleontologists who are preserving fossils and making them presentable. The big feature that makes it of interest to these people is that when it cures, the process is reversible. That is, it's not like curing concrete. When concrete cures, it's an irreversible process, and the concrete doesn't soften back up when it rains. Some other similar substances are methylcellulose, a water-soluble glue used in book repair, and Paraloid B-72. When you use one of these substances as an adhesive or a varnish, the solvent evaporates off and it forms a hard glue or lacquer, but you can undo it by applying the solvent.

If you want a rough conceptual idea of what B-48 is, it's basically a lot like nail polish. It's soluble in acetone (nail polish remover), and in fact one how-to video I saw by a paleontologist suggested using a nail-polish bottle, with a brush built in to the cap, to store it. It's different from nail polish because (1) the list of ingredients is shorter and at least partially publicly known, (2) it's intended to be left in place for a long time, potentially forever, (3) it's reversible, (4) it doesn't produce a cross-linked polymer, so it's not as hard, and (5) it has a certain temperature (the "glass temperature") above which it starts to degrade.

You normally buy Paraloid resins as solid pellets, which you then have to dissolve in the appropriate solvent. The best vendor I could find was a company called Talas. Pros talk about using a 50% solution of B-72 or B-48, but I found that it was quite difficult to get B-48 to dissolve at that kind of concentration. I ended up doing a 20% solution instead (weight/volume). I used "maximum-strength" nail polish from the supermarket, which AFAICT is acetone, a tiny amount of bitterant, and maybe a small amount of water that creeps in because acetone is hygroscopic. I found some how-to videos that described just dumping some pellets in the solvent and waiting overnight for it to dissolve. That may work for B-72, but it didn't work well for me with B-48, which I chose because of its higher glass temperature. What ended up working for me was a technique shown in this video, where you hang a gauze bag full of pellets inside a jar. There is solvent in the bottom of the jar. You position it so the bottom of the bag is submerged. When you do this, you can immediately see swirly stuff happening in the solvent as the resin dissolves and sinks. I got this to work with 46 grams of pellets and 177 g of acetone, which is a 20% solution. When I extracted the bag the next day and opened it up (a messy process), there was no solid left inside. However, there was a lot of liquid left adhering to the bag, which I couldn't get out easily by squeezing with gloved hands. I estimate that I ended up losing 40% of my stuff because it stayed adhered to the bag.

Working with the solution is kind of annoying. When it gets on your gloves, the fingers of your gloves start adhering to each other. The acetone evaporates really quickly, so this is a rapid process. When you pour the solution out of a jar, you inevitably end up getting some on the lip of the jar, and you have to wipe that off immediately before it dries.

If you're going to paint a protective layer of B-48 on top of something, then using a 20% solution means that after it evaporates, the volume will have gone down by 80%. This tends to produce puckering and wrinkling. To mitigate this, you probably want to set some solution out in a dish, on top of a digital balance, and wait for enough acetone to evaporate off so that you now have a 50% solution. Then you would paint that on. I didn't do this, so the films that I painted as an experiment did have some puckers and bubbles.

A thin layer mostly cures in less than a minute, but it's probably better to wait longer. I tried sanding the cured substance, and that seemed to result in converting the glossy surface into a grayish matte surface. Maybe if I'd waited longer for curing, it would have worked better.

The "glass temperature" of these substances is not really an exact value, it's more of a wide range. For B-48 it's roughly 50 C. That's high enough so that if a curator in a place like Egypt uses it on a statue that's outside, the substance won't degrade. I found that brief immersion with water at about 70 C didn't cause anything obvious to happen, but leaving it in 80 C water for a couple of minutes caused crap to start peeling off into the water, and what was left over had turned from glossy to matte.

As far as safety, my rough understanding is that it's all about occupational exposure to the solvent. If you work with this stuff indoors, day after day, year after year, then you want to think seriously about ventilation. What I did was to do all the bulk steps in my back yard, but when I was just painting a little bit on something with a brush, I did it inside. There are also plasticizers in B-48 (although not in methylcellulose or B-72). Plasticizers are omnipresent in our environment, and you ingest quite a bit of them every year in products like fish and beer. Often the plasticizer is not from the plastic food packaging that you see in the supermarket, but from things like plastic tubing that the beer passed through at the brewery. Nail polish contains plasticizers, although there has been a trend recently toward changing to newer and possibly less harmful plasticizers -- but it seems that this may be partly just greenwashing.

I tested the clear B-48 solution, but I also tried mixing it with a white pigment (alumina powder, which was what I had handy). It seemed to work fine. For many applications, though, you could probably just use nail polish of the appropriate color.

u/benjamin-crowell — 14 days ago

For fun: estimate the size of your vocabulary in ancient Greek

Every year at the beginning of August, I've been posting a vocabulary quiz here (2024 2025). The comment threads from the previous tests contain a lot of discussion of the most common issues and questions that occur to people about this test. The source code for generating the quizzes is here. If you don't want to count compounds as part of your vocabulary, on the theory that many compounds have meanings that are obvious, then simply don't count those, and your estimate will be lower. There is no universally valid way to estimate the size of someone's vocabulary, and for example, there are various published estimates of the average size of a US first-year college student's English vocabulary, differing by more than an order of magnitude. This year's test was generated using the same algorithm and data as last year's, so if you took the test then and take it again now, the results should be comparable, and you can tell if your vocabulary grew.

Count how many of the following words you know
and multiply by 20: ________
  ἄν βία γῆ δίδωμι ἕ
  εἰς ἐπεί ἱερός καί κατά
  μή οἶκος παῖς πᾶς πρός
  πρόσωπον σπέρμα τίκτω χρόνος χρύσεος

Count how many of the following words you know
and multiply by 100: ________
  ἀνάγω ἀνδροφόνος διαιρέω δμώς ἐπιβάλλω
  ἡλικιώτης ἵκω λίθος πατρίς πεντακισχίλιοι
  πολίτευμα πομπή πρόθυμος προσάγω σός
  συλλαμβάνω συνήθης τίω τυγχάνω χρηστός

Count how many of the following words you know
and multiply by 200: ________
  ἀίδιος ἀνδραποδίζω ἀπαρχή ἀραβέω δισμύριοι
  δόλος εὐψυχία ἠθεῖος ἰάχω κατάκειμαι
  κατακρίνω κατατίθημι μέδομαι μήδομαι ὅρμος
  παραβάλλω προβολή σκηπτοῦχος σύμπτωμα τύραννος

Count how many of the following words you know
and multiply by 1000: ________
  ἀδόκιμος αἶνος ἀκρογωνιαῖος ἀνακαινίζω ἀρχεῖον
  ἀφθορία βλάξ γεῦσις ἐκπαθής ἐπιλείπω
  ἠπεροπευτής αἱμοφόρυκτος κατακαλέω κορυφόω νεόδαρτος
  περιούσιος σκόπελος στηρίζω συμφερτός τιμόω

Add up the results. This is an estimate of how
many dictionary words you know in ancient Greek,
out of the 26838 most common words.

[EDIT] There was an error in the original test I posted. The bogus lemma ἰμάτιον (nonexistent lemma with smooth breathing) was included in the final group. I replaced it with another randomly chosen word, αἱμοφόρυκτος.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 15 days ago

Is this an unusual usage of ἱκετεύω?

Heliodorus, Aethiopica 1.16:

ἐπῄνει ταῦτα ἡ Δημαινέτη, καὶ προστιθέναι τάχος τοῖς δεδογμένοις ἱκέτευεν.

Here Demaineta is telling her slave to go ahead with a plan. My understanding of ἱκετεύω is that it's something like "supplicate, beg," and it has connotations that it's what a mortal does to a god or a human to another human who is in a position of power or dominance over them. Is it unusual that this is used here to describe what a mistress does to her slave? Can the verb's meaning just be diluted to "ask to?" Or is there a humorous implication here, that, ha ha, the slave has her mistress wrapped around her finger?

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u/benjamin-crowell — 18 days ago
▲ 2 r/maker

Sourcing a thermoplastic acrylic solution resin with a high glass temperature

I'm looking for any type of resin beads similar to Paraloid B-72 or B-84, but with a higher glass temperature, like 100 C. This would be something I can mix with a solvent and titanium dioxide, for example, to produce a liquid that I can brush on, and then the solvent evaporates and the resin cures, leaving behind a white lacquer. Preferably pure, food-grade, and not mixed with any plasticizers. I don't care if it's reversible, but it probably would be -- as long as it's not reversible with substances like ethanol that could actually be present in food. It seems like my best bet for this kind of application is PMMA, which can be dissolved in acetone.

However, I can't seem to find any retail suppliers, only industrial suppliers on alibaba who sell it in 25 kg bags. Dental acrylic polymer powder seems like it would be great, but as far as I can tell it's only marketed with dyes already added.

There are powders sold for use in making false fingernails, which might actually work if you dissolved them in acetone rather than the liquid they're intended to be mixed with, but they probably contain a lot of other substances mixed in, and the sellers don't seem to disclose what they are, so safety for food contact seems doubtful. My guess is that plain old nail polish would probably work for my purposes, since people do eat fried chicken with nail polish on their fingernails, but I'm just a little doubtful about using anything that isn't advertised for food contact and doesn't have a disclosed list of ingredients.

Can anyone recommend something to use for this application that I can actually get from a retail supplier in quantities like a kilogram or less?

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u/benjamin-crowell — 19 days ago

Leaving because of the flood of ARR and EMNLP posts

90% of what's on this subreddit now seems to be people posting about their ARR and EMNLP stuff. The signal-to-noise ratio is so low that it's no longer worth my time to come here. I have a note on my calendar to check back in November and see if the situation is any better.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 19 days ago

Plasticizer content of Dow Paraloid B-48N

I believe B72 is the material more commonly used in museum restoration, but it doesn't do well in hot climates, so some people use B-48N (or a mix of the two). Dow only releases some information about the formulation of these products, as required by health and safety regulators, and they consider a lot of the details to be trade secrets. People have sent samples out to labs, and I've seen some qualitative descriptions of the results, but they are unsourced and short on quantitative details. In particular, does anyone know of any quantitative data, no matter how rough, on how much dibutyl phthalate (DBP) plasticizer there is in B-48N? All I've been able to gather is that B72 has no plasticizers, but B-48N does have some. Apparently some PVC products, such as medical IV bags and disposable gloves used in food service, can have as much as 40% plasticizer content. I would be interested to know even an order-of-magnitude number for B-48N. Since the cured substance is supposed to be rigid, I'd imagine it's a lot less than 40%...but I'm wondering if it's 10%? 1%?

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u/benjamin-crowell — 20 days ago

DIY measurement of lead content in a tin powder

I have some fine tin powder sold by a reputable supplier in Japan. Since tin and lead are in the same column of the periodic table, it seems inevitable that there is some lead in it. I would like to get a quantitative measure of how much. Just an order-of-magnitude estimate would be fine, but it would be of interest to know whether it's 1% or 0.0001%.

There seem to be two reagents commonly used for detecting lead, dithizone and sodium rhodizonate. Dithizone is used for higher quality quantitative testing. Rhodizonate is what is used in cheap swab kits sold on amazon. Dithizone gives false positives on stannous tin, so it seems likely that it would give a false positive in this application, and in fact the reagent used in the swab kits may actually be more appropriate for this purpose.

However, the swab kits are qualitative rather than quantitative, and it's not clear what their sensitivity is. US EPA regulates test kits and has done some testing of whether a couple of brands actually work, but it seems like the expected sensitivity has historically been quite low, since lead paints contain as much as 3% lead.

There are mail-in test kits that are actually pretty affordable ($35 for one sample) and intended for use with samples of dirt or dust, and they email you back a quantitative result. They use a method called EPA Method 7000B, which is spectroscopic, so I would think should be fairly immune to false positives from substances like tin, since they seem to heat the sample in a flame so that the molecules dissociate, and then measure how much of the element's emission spectrum is absorbed. This could be OK, but I'm not sure if my understanding of their method is 100% correct, and they certainly aren't expecting to receive samples of tin, so it leaves me uncertain about whether it would be accurate for this application. Also, if I buy more tin from the same supplier, or a different supplier, I probably have to pay again for testing.

Is there any fairly simple DIY test that I can do in my kitchen that will give me any quantitative idea, even to within an order of magnitude, of the amount of lead in a sample of tin powder? It seems difficult to get an absolute calibration without making up a sample with some known concentration of lead, which I don't want to do in my kitchen.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 24 days ago

1981 movie of the Scott Joplin opera Treemonisha

I've always been curious about the Scott Joplin opera Treemonisha. Rottentomatoes has a database entry for a film from 1981, but zero info on any way that it can be streamed or rented. Does anyone have any info?

u/benjamin-crowell — 25 days ago
▲ 3 r/urushi

Useful paper on food safety of tin

Blunden and Wallace, 2003, "Tin in canned food: a review and understanding of occurrence and effect," Food and Chemical Toxicology 41, 1651

https://scholar.google.com/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&q=blunden+and+wallace%2C+Tin+in+canned+food%3A+a+review+and+understanding+of+occurrence+and+effect&btnG=

I thought this was very useful in understanding the safety aspects of using tin powder on urushi lacquerware that needs to be food-safe.

The remaining issue in my mind is how to figure out how much lead might be in the tin powder sold by a supplier like Goenne. There are test kits with swabs that you can buy for $4 to tell you, for example, whether a crystal tumbler you bought at a yard sale has lead paint. Testing a sample of tin powder seems like a different task. What would really be desirable would be some way to test the tin powder and get an actual numerical measurement of the amount of lead in it. I don't know how to do that without sending it out to a lab and paying a lot of money.

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u/benjamin-crowell — 26 days ago

Herodotus with student aids

I've completed my presentation of Herodotus with student aids. This is a free, nonprofit project made entirely with open-source software. There are versions with two different levels of aids, which I call heavy and light. Both can be downloaded as pdf files, and the version with light aids is also available in print. The books are roughly comparable to Steadman's, but the design philosophy is different, and I have all nine books of Herodotus, whereas Steadman only has two.

Reading Herodotus was my long test-drive of the light-aids format, which I came up with based on input from folks on this subreddit. This format breaks the text down into 10-page groups, consisting of 2 pages of vocabulary, 4 pages of Greek, and 4 pages of translation. A small number of the most infrequent words are glossed in footnotes at the bottom of the Greek pages. If you're using this format in print, the idea is that you use a paperclip on the left page and another on the right. You set up the paperclips so that if you flip to the left, you get to the vocabulary pages at the beginning of the 10-page block, and flipping right gets you to the English translation at the end of the block. When you get to the end of a two-page spread of Greek, you move the paperclips. Common words are not glossed within the 10-page block, but the back of the book has a core vocabulary list of the 500 most common words in Herodotus. There are maps on the back cover of the printed book.

u/benjamin-crowell — 27 days ago
▲ 1 r/MetalsOnReddit+1 crossposts

Would GeO2 work for this application in Japanese lacquer?

I've been learning to work with traditional Japanese lacquer, which is based on a tree sap called urushi (chemical properties). The main component of urushi is urushiol, which is a phenol with a long unsaturated hydrocarbon tail. When it's exposed to humid air and warm temperatures, it absorbs water and hardens into a beautiful, hard lacquer with a cross-linked structure. It's difficult to make pigments work with the material or get a broad color palette with it, so when you see sophisticated art done with it, usually most of the colors are done by sprinkling powdered metals such as gold and silver on top of a thin layer of partially cured lacquer, so that the particles are trapped at the surface and become embedded there, without sinking and becoming invisible. Historically it has been difficult to get a bright white color, and traditional artisans have resorted to expedients such as embedding pieces of eggshell in the surface.

I was trying to figure out if there was some modern material that just wouldn't have been known historically, and which could be used to get a white, perhaps by sprinkling a white powder. I did experiments with a couple of white powders that I happened to have, alumina and tricalcium phosphate, both of which are food-safe. This didn't work well. There was a lot of clumping and caking, and they didn't adhere well to the lacquer. I'm not sure how to predict what powdered materials will adhere, but in general all pure metal powders seem to work.

I was trying to brainstorm possible materials to get a food-safe white, and one that seemed possible was germanium. Germanium is in the same column of the periodic table as tin. Of course germanium is a semiconductor, not a metal, but I do know that tin powder works well. My idea was that I could buy a fine germanium powder, sprinkle it as I would with tin, and then later the powder would either spontaneously form a passivation layer of white GeO2, or it could be encouraged to do so with the application of a little heat or maybe a gentle oxidizing agent. Wikipedia says that germanium metal oxidizes slowly in air at 250 C, which is a little hotter than any temperature I want to expose my work to. Germanium is relatively affordable, about half the price of silver. The oxide is insoluble in water and nontoxic unless you eat large amounts of it. Elemental germanium is also nontoxic.

Any comments on whether this type of thing should be expected to work, and if so, what kind of gentle oxidizer to use? Or are there other materials that would make more sense? I'm a physicist by training, not a chemist, and I lack insight into the chemical reason why metal powders work but things like alumina don't. I suspect that egg shells work only because there is a protein component in it -- otherwise people would have been using calcium carbonate powder hundreds of years ago to get a white color.

I've also looked into things like acrylic resin (Dow Paraloid B-72 et al.) with calcium carbonate mixed in. Such resins are used in museum conservation work with urushi, but the reason art restorers like the ones they use is that the reactions are reversible with solvents like ethanol. I don't want my plate or bowl to dissolve the first time it is exposed to some substance like that. These pieces are also usually sanded, and I don't think sanding plexiglass-type materials will work well, and it might produce microplastics that I don't want in my food. There is a type of urushi marketed as "white urushi" that comes in a tube pre-mixed with white pigment, but when you cure it, it is actually beige or brown.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

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u/Then_Marionberry_259 — 1 month ago

fun fact about the etymology of στρατός, στόρνυμι, strew, stratum, στέρνον, street

These are all cognate, coming from PIE sterh₃, to spread. From that root meaning, you get Germanic words like English "strew," Greek στόρνυμι, and also Latin stratum, "blanket." But what I hadn't realized was that this was also the source of στρατός, "army," which Beekes explains as "camping army," I suppose referring to what you would see if a bunch of soldiers were spreading out in a certain area and making an encampment. It's also the source of στέρνον and "street."

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u/benjamin-crowell — 1 month ago

A couple of confusing things in a row in the Aethiopica

I just finished Herodotus and am now reading the Aethiopica, and I'm getting some whiplash as I try to adjust from Ionic to koine. The following two things happened one after another, so I thought I would try to get a two-for-one by posting here for an explanation. This is section 1.14.

> καὶ μὴν προσεπιτρίψεις γε ἡμᾶς, ἔφη ὁ Θεαγένης, εἰ τὴν κακίστην ἀτιμώρητον ἐάσεις ἐν τῷ λόγῳ Δημαινέτην. οὐκοῦν ἀκούοιτ᾽ ἄν, ἔφη ὁ Κνήμων, ἐπειδήπερ ὑμῖν οὕτω φίλον.

> ἐγὼ μὲν ὡς εἶχον μετὰ τὴν κρίσιν εἰς τὸν Πειραιᾶ κατέβην, καὶ νεὼς ἀναγομένης ἐπιτυχὼν τὸν πλοῦν εἰς Αἴγιναν ἐποιούμην, ἀνεψιοὺς εἶναί μοι τῆς μητρὸς ἐνταῦθα πυνθανόμενος.

Just before the paragraph break, what is the meaning of φίλον?

After the paragraph break, there seems to be one subject pronoun and two finite verbs, with no conjunction. It seems to me that the sentence would make perfect sense without εἶχον, but I don't understand what εἶχον is doing there.

Thanks in advance!

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u/benjamin-crowell — 1 month ago
▲ 16 r/urushi

testing a recipe for DIY tonoko

I'm trying to cut down on how many expensive things I order from Japan for urushi work, and see if I can find local substitutes here in the US that are cheaper, can be obtained without long delays, and don't require paying a tariff illegally imposed by the Orange King. Previously I've had some success with using tokusa made from locally grown plants, and with using white gas as a solvent, rather than kerosene, which is not something people in the US usually have around the house. This post is a description of my attempt to produce something like Yamashina yellow tonoko simply by mixing locally available raw ingredients. What I actually had around the house for comparison was the last remains of a bag of tonoko from Goenne, which I believe is some kind of red tonoko.

The decision to try to mimic the composition of Yamashina tonoko was partly because Yamashina was just the only type of tonoko for which I could find any quantitative data about its composition, and I decided to do yellow because that seemed like a middle-of-the-road choice in terms of its iron oxide content. People claim it is slightly easier to work with than red.

I learned online that there are actually a lot of different types of tonoko that don't really resemble each other very much in terms of their composition, and yet they end up having a lot of the same properties. This web page says that Yamashina tonoko is about 25% clay, including kaolin, and 75% minerals that include silica, feldspar, and mica. This web page says that yellow tonoko is mainly silica and alumina, plus smaller amounts of kaolin and iron oxide.

Is anyone else here a science geek? I'm trained as a physicist, so maybe some of this is more interesting to me than to other people. One of the most important physical characteristics of tonoko is its wetness of plasticity, which I'll write as y. This is defined as the fraction of the material that is water, when you've added the amount of water that makes pottery clay "workable." I found it more convenient to work with the quantity x=1/(1/y-1), which is defined so that the ratio of dry material to water is 1:x. I think x is basically a measure of how much water is required to wet all of the particles, so I would expect x to act like a weighted average when you mix materials. For the red tonoko that I had, I measured x=0.49, which gave me a figure to try to match. (I was surprised how easy it was to measure this quantity accurately -- as you add drops of water, the material undergoes rapid and obvious changes in its properties when approaching plasticity.)

Silica and feldspar are two of the most common minerals in the earth's crust, so it's not really surprising if most tonoko contains quite a bit of these things.

If you want to buy a fine silica powder commercially, basically that means buying diatomaceous earth (DE). There is food-grade DE, which is amorphous silica and is safe to handle, and then there is the grade sold for use in pool filters, which has been calcined and made into crystalline form. I maintained my own pool for about 20 years, and if I had understood at the time how bad crystalline DE is, I probably would have handled it a lot differently. Once I had read up on this, I decided that I didn't want to mess with crystalline DE, so I bought some amorphous DE and was planning to use that for my silica. However, when I measured the water of plasticity of amorphous DE, it turned out to be incredibly high, x=1.5. That was going to make it impossible to formulate a recipe that would have any significant amount of amorphous DE in it and produce a total water of plasticity that would mimic the desired properties. For that reason, I decided that I just wouldn't use any silica in my recipe, and instead I decided to use calcined alumina, which is also supposed to be a major component of at least some yellow tonokos, and is a hard mineral with a Mohs hardness roughly in the same ballpark as silica but somewhat greater.

Mica and feldspar are both fairly soft minerals, which I would expect to make the resulting sabi relatively easy to sand, being softer than the abrasives used in sandpaper. Since the online info I had didn't specify exact amounts of these for any particular tonoko, I just used a lot of feldspar and a little mica. The mica has a very high water of plasticity, so I had to keep the amount of it in the recipe fairly small.

Of the materials that I ended up using, most are available either on Amazon in small quantities, mostly sold for DIY cosmetics, or at pottery supply stores in larger quantities. Big pottery supply stores generally do both mail-order and bricks-and-mortar walk-in sales. I have one about a 20 minute drive from where I live, so I was able to buy five-pound bags of some materials from them at a very low unit price. Feldspar was 6 cents an ounce in that quantity, and calcined alumina was 37 cents an ounce. If you're buying calcined alumina from one of these places, make sure to be clear with them that the oxide is what you want, because they may think you want aluminum hydrate, which is what potters use more.

Big pottery stores usually do a good job of listing particle sizes in their online catalogs, but people on Amazon selling materials for cosmetics or food supplements usually do not. I have a small set of sieves, and I was able to determine that most of the materials I was buying were able to fit through a #30 or 80 sieve but not a #500 (30 μm). For certain types of very fine work, like filling in a tiny scratch on a luxury fountain pen, these particle sizes are probably too big, and you would not want to use this recipe. However, I'm using tonoko almost exclusively as a base layer that is going to have a lot more layers of urushi on top of it, so I figured these larger particle sizes would be OK. The cosmetic-grade mica I used had very large particle sizes, but mica is extremely soft, so I didn't expect that to be a problem when sanding. For very fine work, you would probably want to follow something like the recipe that Michal suggested in an earlier thread: "70% kaolin, 20% DE not calcinated, 10% fine stone powder. All in particle size <30µm."

The recipe I ended up with was the following. The first number is the weight in grams for the small test batch I made, the second one is a rough measure of the volume in units of teaspoons.

  • kaolin 7.5 3
  • feldspar 15.0 3
  • calcined alumina 7.5 1
  • mica 3.0 2
  • yellow iron oxide 8.6 3

It might seem like this is a pretty arbitrary recipe, but it's actually tightly constrained in order to match the water of plasticity I wanted, the color I saw online for yellow tonoko, the percentage of clay I'd read online for Yamashina tonoko, and my desire to include a mix of harder and softer minerals similar to what was probably present in most real tonokos.

Once I mixed this up, I did some testing. The water of plasticity ended up being x=.49, which happened to be exactly the value I'd been trying to match from the Goenne sample. The series of photos shows a sample of Goenne red tonoko and my DIY yellow tonoko side by side.

  1. the dry mixture

  2. with water

  3. mixed to make sabi, and spread onto a card with a spatula

  4. cured for two days

  5. dry-sanded with 80, 300, 600, and 1200-grit sandpapers

They felt about the same when I spread them. Their behavior when sanded seemed identical as far as I could tell. I tried trimming, carving, and cutting grooves with an xacto knife, and found that my stuff actually seemed a little easier to work with. This is probably just because the high proportion of iron oxide in red tonoko makes it that way. I found the Goenne red tonoko to be more brittle when cut, while mine was more like what greenware pottery feels like when you trim it, or maybe even a little more compliant than that.

u/benjamin-crowell — 1 month ago