My first year of bouldering

I have been climbing for year now and im interested how good my progression is . and what would you say i could achieve in next year .

When i started i just went down from 78kg to around 64 so i was relatively skinny but also had small amount of muscles .
Now im around the same weight but i gained muscle (i don't go to gym so it wasn't a huge amount, just from climbing and from the little i did at home )

Maybe first 2/5 of the year i climbed once a week but for the rest i climbed twice a week.

i liked board climbing more then majority of boulders gym sets and im pretty sure at least half of the time i have been in gym i climbed on boards with maybe 90% of the time on kilter and 10% on 24 moon board . (now my main board is mb and i warm up on kilter )

i climbed maybe 2 months in rentals and then i bought Ls tarantulas and now little over month ago i bought Ls theory .

i think if i bought my tarantulas one size/half size smaller and it would helped them but they are still good shoes for what they are and i still use them for warm up and some slab climbs. But for overhang, rounded/dual text foot holds they are bad and they held me back on them.

-And now grades i done.

on kilter i have few 7a/v6 boulders in logbook but since all the bs that happened with the new app i climbed almost only on my own climbs and ignored those in app.

on 2024 moon board i done 12 6b+/v4 benchmarks and im relatively close to some 6c/v5 benchmarks .
on 2019 i had only one session but like 2 weeks ago and i done 3 6a+/v3

gym doesn't give a singular grade but a ranges and hardest i done is (6c-7a)(v5/v6) of which i done 5 and curiously none of them in more then like 10deg overhang .

-Now what do you think about my goals for next year .
Do you think they are too high ?

on kilter i don't really care about sanding a grade because of the grading.
on 2024 moon i would want to send 7a/v6 .
and the thing i would be most happy about would be if i get a (7a+/7b+)(v7-v8) gym boulder but with how few of them are set it s more luck depended. if i get one that suits me well when im also strong enough to do it .

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u/boa_vista — 1 day ago

can i send on 2019?

Maybe in 1 or 2 months i will be relatively near a gym that has 2019mb and im thinking about going there but i only climbed on 2024 and only done 6 6b+ benchmarks .

The only reason i would go there is to try the mb because it s almost 4h of traveling in total from where i will be.

So i want to know if i would be able to do some or at least one benchmark (in one session) ? Like i don't want to go there just to find that i cant top any benchmarks and go home sad .

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u/boa_vista — 1 month ago

Generals error

https://preview.redd.it/ob8pdux9k9ch1.png?width=405&format=png&auto=webp&s=29c595de0c8460cf033d8d8701961542fe44de33

Game is downloaded from steam with genpatcher
i done 2 missions and then on 3rd game crashed with this error

i found that every time i alt tab the game crashes with this error even tho im pretty sure done 2 missions with multiple alt tabs and it was fine

i found that the windowed version is fine but the top bar is ugly + going down with mouse shows the windows taskbar so i cant go down with the camera and have to rotated it to use side/up to move "down"

any help with fixing one of these problems or am i stuck with if i play this game i cant alt tab or im able to alt tab but i can only go up and side to side with camera

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u/boa_vista — 1 month ago

new shoes questions

i bought la sportiva theory and already had 2 seasons in them ( partial, i used also old tarantula for maybe half of the climbing )

before buying them i tried 41.5 which were too tight and painful and 42.5 were maybe too big . I dont remember how they exactly felt but i think there was lot of free space in the toe box .

In the shop where i could try shoes one had only smaller or bigger sizes so i took a risk and bought 42 from Banana fingers.

main reason why i bought them is to have shoes which are more sensitive and also better at smearing and yea the rubber is more sticky but tarantulas feel more sensitive for now. and the theoris are not most painless pair of shoes mostly on knockles.

after how many sessions/boulder/hours they get in their finally form and im stuck with them like that?

like i dont know how much shoes actually stretch but at this point they feel far away from slab shoes .should i be worried they they will be only board shoes ?

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u/boa_vista — 2 months ago

ocun iris vs theory

Originally I wanted to buy Theory women but where i live no shop has my size.
But i found ocun iris in good discount and im thinking about ordering them to stone shop to test them but other then fit im not sure about how sensitive/soft/sticky they are .
and after tarantula i want sensitive shoes were i actually feel the hold i m standing on.

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u/boa_vista — 2 months ago

lately it takes me way longer to feel strong in session

its around 10 months since i started climbing

i climb 1 or max 2 times a week with at least 2 full days of rest.

my sessions are around 5h and they were this time almost from the start

its maybe 8 months since i started climbing on kilter board and maybe 6 or 7 since its the main thing i climb.

i always warmup before climbing for maybe 30min with finger board + body and after those 30min i start with some easy boulder too . and there was no problem maybe till month ago.

but since then i feel weaker as a whole but also i feel the strongest maybe 3h in . and the strength lasts maybe 1h and them im almost back to where i started .

last time i could t even do my 6a warm up boulders and had to put (jug ladders 5a to 5c) to warm up.

its not like i started to workout or do something that would exhaust me before clkmbing day.

also its not like i stared to climb much higher grades and its higher load on my body . i climb around the same grade for maybe 3 months

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u/boa_vista — 2 months ago

theory vs skwama

what are the main differences between these 2 shoes
like in how good each are in
board climbing
slab with small holds
slab on smeary volumes/no tex holds
normal bouldering
all indoor

like if both will fit the same should i buy one i like more/its cheaper or are there not negligible differences i should take in consideration.

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u/boa_vista — 3 months ago

Looking for all around shoes to upgrade to from La sportiva tarantula

Im looking for shoes that i wont be able to blame for not being able to keep feet on smeary feet on boards and for slipping/not being able to stand on slabs.

maybe 80% of my climbing is on kilter board but i want shoes that i can also climb slabs and sport climbs without the shoes being problem with friction or not being able to feel the holds.

reddit.com
u/boa_vista — 3 months ago