r/indoorbouldering

Thank you for your help! Mental fatigue questionnaire study update — how the scale was put together and what this round is doing
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Thank you for your help! Mental fatigue questionnaire study update — how the scale was put together and what this round is doing

Last month I posted here recruiting for my PhD study developing an acute and chronic scale measuring mental fatigue in sport. First off, I want to say a big thank you to everyone who took the time to fill it out. The responses have been brilliant and a few of the comments made me see the problem through a different lens, especially as my background is in climbing and weightlifting so seeing it from a runners perspective was really helpful. A few people also asked how the questionnaire was put together and what this round is doing, and I should have laid that out from the start. Full references are in a separate comment below.

Where the items came from

The scale is being developed following Boateng et al.'s (2018) framework for scale development, which is a detailed primer explaining how to develop and validate scales in behavioural and health science. The starting point was a wide search of the literature. I pulled items from two main sources: 16 measures of mental fatigue and mental load used in the general adult population (identified through Diaz-Garcia et al.'s 2021 systematic review), and 19 measures used in sport-specific contexts (identified through my own systematic scoping review of mental fatigue and mental load measurement tools in sport. I am looking to publish this soon). On top of that I added items developed from my readings of six papers that describe how athletes experience mental fatigue and what drives it (Van Cutsem et al., 2017; Martin et al., 2018; Pattyn et al., 2018; Russell et al., 2019; Gantois et al., 2020; Habay et al., 2021). That gave me a pool of 462 items.

Those 462 items went through a deductive thematic analysis (Braun & Clarke, 2006) at the latent level to identify the underlying domains, which reduced the pool to 105 items. During a team review with my supervisors, it became clear there were two distinct constructs that needed separating: acute mental fatigue (the momentary state right now, before or after a session) and chronic mental fatigue (the longer pattern that builds over weeks and months). The five themes that came out of the analysis were inputs contributing to mental fatigue, motivation, perception of effort, decisional balance, and the influence of mental fatigue on behaviour.

Expert review with subject matter experts

The next step was getting six subject matter experts to review every item. The panel was deliberately mixed: researchers in mental fatigue, an exercise physiologist, a cognition specialist, someone with scale development expertise, a professional coach, and an athlete as end-users. Putting athletes on the panel was important, because items that make perfect sense to experts can land badly when you try to use them in a training context. Each item was rated on appropriateness, representativeness, and clarity using Hardesty and Bearden's (2004) sum-score decision rule, and items that didn't make the cut got removed. Some items were reworded based on expert feedback (for example, "tiredness" was changed to "fatigue" across several items to keep the construct clean). That process left 43 items for acute and 51 for chronic, which is what's currently being distributed.

What this round is doing

This round is about dimensionality and item reduction phase. The data from everyone who fills it in goes into an exploratory factor analysis, which takes that wide item pool and works out which items group together and load cleanly onto meaningful factors, then cuts the ones that don't. The finalised scale is a much shorter and captures the underlying structure without the redundancy. The goal is well under 20 items total across both acute and chronic. Although I am at the mercy of the analysis as to what the final number will be.

As such the current length isn't an accident. Starting wide and cutting based on real participant data is the only way to do this properly. But I'm fully aware that it makes the experience heavier than the final tool will be, and that's a trade-off I'm asking participants to accept to achieve high rigour.

I received feedback that some items felt unclear or hard to map onto their own experience. I want to be upfront that this is useful information. Items that don't sit naturally with athletes tend to be exactly the ones that don't load cleanly in factor analysis. So, they should be removed through this process naturally.

What comes after

Once the analysis is complete and the scale is reduced, there's one more round after this focused on validation, looking at concurrent validity (does the new scale correlate with established measures of mental fatigue) and test-retest reliability (does it produce stable results across time). I'll be writing this round up as a paper either way, and I'll come back here with a summary including which items survived and what the final scale looks like. Happy to answer questions in the comments on the methodology or mental fatigue research in general too.

For anyone who hasn't filled it in yet, the link is below. It takes 10-15 minutes to complete and will help us get 1 step closer to understanding how work impacts the sport we love.

https://derby.questionpro.eu/t/AB3vCJoZB3waVr

Cheers.

Cam

u/Same_Row_761 — 3 hours ago

Softest gym in DMV area?

as the name implies, i’m looking for the softest bouldering/climbing gym in the DMV area. Any advice or insight from DMV folks would be appreciated!

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u/Beautiful-Dog8417 — 4 hours ago

Is power endurance/ endurance a real thing for sport climbing?

Is power endurance and endurance a real thing?
As long as you know how to rest, you don’t over grip and climb effectively you should be able to send the route. The person who is the strongest on each move should be able to send the route( Fingers, body tension and overall strength)

It’s like I’m gonna go lift weights, to get stronger you do sets of 5. There’s no power endurance in lifting. Whoever is the strongest will be able to do the most sets of 10 reps.

I feel like the answer to becoming a better sport climber is bouldering and moon boarding and learning the beta for your route. If your power is high, it all trickles down and makes each move easier even if you get a hard 20 move sequence.

Is this true?

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u/applesis1 — 1 day ago

How do I deal with these?

So I’ve torn one of my new calluses, and I have no idea what to do with it. I cut off the flap cause that seemed to be the thing to do according to the internet but I’m pretty lost now lol. How do I tape it? can I still climb or should I wait till it’s healed? is it ok to put tape straight on it? Anything helpful is appreciated lol I’m a beginner and climbing by myself.

u/ILoveMeSomeBooks14 — 1 day ago

Fun things to do between climbs!

I always get bored when resting between climbs because resting is stupid and who on earth would want to just sit and stare at nothing for 5 minutes while your body recovers, so I though I’d share some things that are fun to do while recovering from whatever gravity-defying thing you’ve done this time.

1: draw those little creatures that live in the walls

2: Draw sheep in the chalk that accumulates on tables and other flat surfaces.

3: Write a secret message on a little scroll of paper and hide it in the boltholes.

4: Follow someone around and cheer and clap enthusiastically every time they complete a climb. (works better if you get friends to do it with you)

5: Put up a notice for a missing goat, then hide the goat in someone’s locker.

6: Stick googly eyes on every hold in a climb.

7: Buy a bag of 100 of those little easter chicks and hide them at the tops of all the climbs. (maybe not the best for resting but still fun)

8: pick up all those chips of hold that are left when people keep throwing them around and arrange them artfully

9: draw pictures of crabs saying motivational quotes and put them in people’s bags

10: ask people if they’ve seen your fish, then tell them you’ve remembered, and produce the fish from your sleeve.

have fun!

reddit.com
u/Wide_Bath_7660 — 1 day ago

At home exercises?

I live an hour and a half to any climbing gyms (same distance to climb outdoor and it’s only sport climbing, don’t own any of the equipment currently), any at home exercises people recommend, I’m in a rental house (so can’t install a hang board in the house with no stable places to do pull ups inside the house (no edges on the doorways or they would most definitely come down if I put my body weight on it (I may be able to do pull ups on the downstairs garage), any exercises you recommend? I am thinking about installing a hangboard in the garage and just fix it up when I move out… (wooden beams)

Any exercises you guys would recommend. Flexibility? Do you guys think those edge things you can buy and attach weights to and lift work well or just marketing bullsh*t. I manage to climb once or twice a week as i am so busy with work 8:30-4:30 everyday and my daughter who is under 2, I have her 60% so it’s hard to find the time to drive a 3hr round trip to climb, but man I love it so much 😭

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u/vcollie — 1 day ago

Happy to finally get this

Discovered this climb midway into sess and jt looked really fun
Idid do it from one move in since I figured its about to be reset and I dont have much energy left but Im so glad to get this link!
A lot of power screaming required as my energy was getting low.
Also as a bonus guess the grade

u/HebuBall — 1 day ago

Any idea how to clean this one? 😭

About a year of climbing, at some point I spilt half a bag of chalk grabbing my friends bag and didn’t clean it up at the time of the spill 😬

u/vcollie — 2 days ago

Techniques to fall

Hi guys,

When reached the top of one the climbs I completely lost all my energy to climb down properly so I fell, and I landed kinda weird and messed up my ankle.

What is the proper form/technique when it comes to falling, I understand that you're meant to use you legs like springs to compress and absorb the energy, what other tips do you guys haves?

reddit.com
u/ObjectiveArmadillo98 — 2 days ago

Hardest Slab I’ve sent so far!

The start was uncomfortable, volumes on this were so slippery, the chips were mostly no Tex, the finish was a slopey crimp, and the semi blind backstep was sick.

Need me more slab like this, this was disgusting and I loved it

u/alkyest — 3 days ago

Fun send from new set

circuit grading had this problem v8-10. what say the committee? loved that the holds all look like pringles.

u/GrouchyGiraffe766 — 2 days ago

Tender a2 pulley

I went climbing outside last Sunday and Monday morning I woke up with a tender A2 pulley. I can’t feel any bowstringing and I can still crimp hard without any pain. I only get pain when I squeeze the tendon. In 1 week I am going on a sport climbing trip I’ve been training for. What should I do?

reddit.com
u/applesis1 — 3 days ago