u/bspaulsen

Really excited to finally get this fully built.

This is a CicadaTAK MANET. It's a Raspberry Pi-based HaLow device with 2.4GHz and either Mesh LoRa protocol. It integrates with ATAK, though the base iOS/Android app is killer on its own. You connect your phone to it via its 2.4GHz AP, and if you add the third antenna (middle, here) you can use 2.4GHz for super close, high-data. HaLow handles the mid-ranges and Meshtastic handles the long range. Heltec V3 or V4 integrated inside. It uses OpenWrt, Morse Micro, and Batman-adv. Green TPU seals, printed top/sled/spine and bottom caps, and an aluminum body, all purchasable if you don't have a printer.

The app gives access to the public Meshtastic channel too, as well as a private team-comms channel; alongside that, all the stuff you'd expect with ATAK:
- a live map with your squads's nodes and pathing
- push to talk
- photos
- if one node gets Ethernet or an internet uplink, every other node does too
- the mesh auto-negotiates which protocol provides the strongest meshing (2.4GHz, HaLow, LoRa)

Other cool things:
- you can onboard standalone Meshtastic devices, keep their names (though it overwrites the default chat channels), and give them access to the IOS/Android CicadaTAK app to use chat and mapping, without having the full MANET build
- M12 Ethernet, dual-USB-C bulkheads
- 10,000mAh battery
- you can print any combination of top caps to fit any array of antennas and ports (BNC, SMA, etc)
- you can download map tiles while uplinked for offline usage

Loving it so far. The guy dev'ing them (cicadaxbuilds) on Instagram is super responsive since his build guides aren't out yet. Only quirk thus far is that the internal Heltec device doesn't like to be used by the Meshtastic app, only the CicadaTAK app, as it's powered and plugged into the Raspberry Pi.

CicadaTAK.com

Edit: I guess team Big Sandbag and Bench™ doesn't like mobile zeroing doohickeys. Bummer.

After getting served an ad for PRSS' ARCA Pistol Rest, I made my own. Note that theirs is way more adjustable, and it actually has a notch for the light or frame to rest in.

Way easier to carry around and zero with, versus finding a bench to drop your bag on.

For me, zeroing or reconfirming a (compensated, usually) pistol off a bag/rest has always introduced a bunch of failures to feed and eject. Clamping the pistol directly into the tripod's ARCA/pic combo head results in it slipping out of the clamp if you don't hit a rail slot.

Got a new optic, decided to make this ARCA Zeroer V3 FINALv2. Used a spare ARCA mount, some wood, and some foam. The foam is pinned on top of dowels, so it can be removed for larger handguns, or a small bag.

Could I have cut a notch into the scrap walnut? Yeah. But then it wouldn't be worth posting on D-I-Why gun reddits.

Finally. Picked up this EPS-CORE-RD-MRS from Freedom Gorilla on their second drop. Been waiting for quite a while. EPS Carry footprint/overhang, EPS full-size window.

Multiple angles to better understand the footprint overhang and window size.

Also shown are the factory M3 screws in the cover plate compared to the M3x9.8 screws Holosun provides. The length and thread engagement is dead-on by visual comparison.

For God's sake, clean those threads with 91% isopropyl or something. Wheeler FAT Wrench, 15 in-lb and 243 (or 242) loctite on the housing screws. Back out the battery tray, add loctite, then torque that to 5 in-lb (FIVE, NOT FIFTEEN). Torquing the battery tray has a bit of an odd feeling because it has a ratchet/detent feeling but you'll get there.

Let me know if y'all need any other measurements or angles.

I don't have any formed opinions about the glass "changes", the 6061 strength, or the front-facing sensor just yet.

Also, refer to my other post comparing EPS/EPS CORE/EPS CARRY measurements.

Finally. Picked up this EPS-CORE-RD-MRS from Freedom Gorilla on their second drop. Been waiting for quite a while.

Multiple angles to better understand the footprint overhang and window size.

Rear of the footprint: 1.01"
Front of the footprint (battery tray): 1.0895"

Also shown are the factory M3 screws in the cover plate compared to the M3x9.8 screws Holosun provides. The length and thread engagement is dead-on by visual comparison.

For God's sake, clean those threads with 91% isopropyl or something. Wheeler FAT Wrench, 15 in-lb and 243 (or 242) loctite on the housing screws. Back out the battery tray, add loctite, then torque that to 5 in-lb (FIVE, NOT FIFTEEN). Torquing the battery tray has a bit of an odd feeling because it has a ratchet/detent feeling but you'll get there.

Let me know if y'all need any other measurements or angles.

I don't have any formed opinions about the glass "changes", the 6061 strength, or the front-facing sensor just yet.

Also, refer to my other post comparing EPS/EPS CORE/EPS CARRY measurements. LINK

Lately, clients have really liked choosing a starting OEM SSK and then swapping a few (or, a lot) of the parts. Always fun to work on OEMS versus scratch builds!

As you can see, this client's old SKZ131 bezel, case, and mineral glass were all pretty well-loved. A transplant of the movement/dial/handset into an SKX013 NamokiMods build makes it an entirely new watch (and hopefully, even more wrist time!).

After repeatedly failing to keep my 992 Cashews clean, I picked up some TBs. Getting a surprising amount of wear-time out of them versus my Greys.