Image 1 — New C26-2 head releases line way too fast
Image 2 — New C26-2 head releases line way too fast
Image 3 — New C26-2 head releases line way too fast
Image 4 — New C26-2 head releases line way too fast
▲ 7 r/stihl

New C26-2 head releases line way too fast

I installed a new Autocut C 26-2. I put .095 line in it. It releases the line way too fast. It goes through 12 feet (on each side) in about 7 or 8 minutes. It releases when I didn't expect it to. It seems the bump is on a hair trigger. When it does release, there is about 12 or 14 inches protruding. It takes it a while to cut itself to the proper length once that much comes out.

I am cutting weeds, not grass. They are pretty tall - 18 inches or so. Some of them have stems up to 1/4 inch.

u/clinkfield — 2 days ago
▲ 2 r/askplumbing+1 crossposts

Bypass water softener - can I leave

I want to bypass my water softener for my outside spigots (hose bibs). I use a lot of water for irrigation. My concern is leaving a couple of dead legs. I had a plumber out and he would just cut the pipes and leave the dead leg. He said he's done that many times and never had a problem.

The configuration - I have a newer two story house. (Picture A) All of the plumbing is in the ceiling - in 2nd story floor joists and the accessible attic space. It's Pex A if that matters. I have a line that comes from the water softener and feeds the shower and the laundry room. (Picture B) Those joints/connections are underneath the 2nd story floor and are not accessible except by cutting a hole in the ceiling - which is the problem. Those lines extend either direction to outside spigots. The lines to the spigots are easily accessible from the attic space.

I want to run new lines to the spigots from the water main bypassing the water softener. (Picture C) The easy way is to just cut the lines at the point where they are accessible and cap off the lines running from the shower and laundry. The second easiest is to loop the newly cut off lines back to the softener. (In reality there are places where I wouldn't have to loop all the way back.)

My question - I know that technically it's a bad idea to leave the dead legs. (I have read about Legionella.) But what do you guys do in real life in the field? Cut the ceiling - or leave them? I can probably reach under flooring a little bit and get the lengths down to about 3 feet.

Please be nice! No need to call anyone an idiot :)

u/clinkfield — 1 month ago

Technique question - how to join these parts

I'm decent at as a DIYer. But I appreciate the advice of all of you experts!

I'm never too sure the best way to connect brass and pvc. I'm under the impression that you can over tighten this.

How tight should it be? Hand tighten plus one more turn with a wrench?

Do I use tape only - or tape and pipe dope?

What is the technique for this?

https://preview.redd.it/cbdzhueeesdh1.jpg?width=2432&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d055789284f256316554f905ad7c5156132eef95

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u/clinkfield — 1 month ago

Can I trust this joint?

I didn't notice that the pex pipe was sticking out just below the ring. I turned the water back on and it's under pressure and holding right now. Can I trust this?

u/clinkfield — 1 month ago

Can I fix patch a small spot on TPO roof myself?

My mom's house. The ceiling directly below this spot started to blister. A moisture meter showed moisture in a very small area at the blister. Nowhere else.

I'm fairly certain water is intruding at one or both of these spots. They are about three inches apart.

I've read not to caulk TPO. Also to really do a repair properly you should use a TPO patch with the heat gun.

Is there a patch that I can apply myself without the heat gun? I'm not sure exactly but the roof is at least 10 years old so the repair doesn't need a 20 year lifespan. Maybe five years. This is in Oldsmar, Florida.

u/clinkfield — 3 months ago

Plastic junk. The wall is concrete block. The box is shallow and wide in the back.

I wouldn't mind have four outlets instead of two. Thank you to all support this sub.

u/clinkfield — 4 months ago