Looking around trying to figure out what my options are. Best thing I've seen so far is this 14.5 p&w to 16 inch upper from thoroughbred armament.
I like that it's plug and play, you just buy it and slap the suppressor on. I know a lot of people build but I'd rather just buy at this point. Suggestions?
Gordy-style stuff is what im looking for btw, I know there's plenty of Mk12 uppers that are AEM5 ready.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question. I have a handguard with an ID of 1.72in and a suppressor with an OD of 1.65in. Barrel & muzzle device were professionally installed by a reputable gunsmith and everything is extremely concentric.
As expected, the fit is tight. However, the suppressor threads on effortlessly and doesnt contact the handguard. The gap looks about the same on all sides. It's tucked somewhere between 1½in and 2in deep on a Xeno mount.
I'm vaguely familiar with the concept of barrel whip and handguard flex. With a gap so small, do I run a significant risk of frequent POI shift or even a baffle strike? I can measure the gap if needed but I think the pictures are sufficient.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question. I have a handguard with an ID of 1.72in and a suppressor with an OD of 1.65in. Barrel & muzzle device were professionally installed by a reputable gunsmith and everything is extremely concentric.
As expected, the fit is tight. However, the suppressor threads on effortlessly and doesnt contact the handguard. The gap looks about the same on all sides. It's tucked somewhere between 1½in and 2in deep on a Xeno mount.
I'm vaguely familiar with the concept of barrel whip and handguard flex. With a gap so small, do I run a significant risk of frequent POI shift or even a baffle strike? I can measure the gap if needed but I think the pictures are sufficient.
Big shout out to u/DAC-TASTIC, u/TheBattleGnome, and big dog u/jtb8269.
This thing was a massive pain in the ass for me, it ended up being more DIY than I was ready for. It's not like a Glock chassis where you slap it in and flip a switch. I hope this post helps somebody struggling with it, I wouldn't have been able to finish the project without the above mentioned users' help.
Obviously the full deconstruction and removal of all parts of the original PS90 is already covered in great length on YouTube. I'm going to go over the Strike Chassis issues I had and how I solved them. Strike refuses to maintain a CS number or put out an installation vid so this is the best you'll get.
(Picture 1) Here’s what it looks like assembled. All in all I'm happy I bought it, but they made it way too difficult. Looking forward to getting the handguards and my titan tactical mount for my optic.
(Picture 2) I slotted in 6 parts, #1 receiver guide piece (I sanded this part down, see pic 2), #2 trigger + trigger bar, #3 safety selector (I forgot the stupid spring assembly the first time), #4 magazine release assembly (some people had to dremel the hole to make it fit, I didn't do anything but jam it in there, however there is some bulging on my chassis due to not modifying it), #5 trigger pack, #6 weird bar & post thing (I forgot this the first time I assembled it, but I ended up having to start over anyway).
(Picture 3) I used sandpaper to flatten out the bottom side of the receiver guide (it's a small plastic piece). It was kind of a massive pain in the ass because the chassis closes over it but then at the end, after I did EVERYTHING ELSE, I found out that the receiver didn't clear it. YMMV but I pretty much had to take the whole thing apart to fix it.
(Picture 4) I stuck the chassis together, it went together pretty easily since I wasn't fighting the dust cover & spring (I added this later instead of following Strike's instructions). The easiest starting point after that for me was screwing together the big metal circles that slot in above the picatinny rail. BEFORE I finished screwing together the metal circles, I slotted in the heat shield above the pic rail. I was fighting the heat shield for a long time before I realized this trick.
(Picture 5) I jammed the dust cover assembly up through the ejection port and slotted it into the red circled hole/alignment tab, I could only do this before tightening all the other screws down, but tightening that metal circle in picture 3 made it super easy to keep everything together while I stuck the dust cover up through the ejection port. Then, I screwed all the other 8? screws in.
(Picture 6) This is bulging from, I assume, the magazine ejection assembly not fitting super well. Whatever.
(Picture 7) I forgot the QD inserts and I had to take the whole stock off after I finally got the pins in the first time
(Picture 8) I had to endlessly sand down the circled part of this little shitfuck buffer piece for it to even barely fit. Holy fuck the dimensions are so off on this thing it's not even funny, I'm calling it now they will release a revised buffer piece and sell it on the site. After this, I got to experience the joy of putting the stock pins in. It became WAY easier after sanding down the buffer piece but it's still tough. I slotted the bottom one the whole way through before even attempting the top one (It took me a while to realize this but they are different sizes, one is dedicated top & one is bottom).
Main issue: I've got the parts all laid out in the chassis but it doesn't snap together. I'm worried I did something wrong that's preventing the chassis from closing.
#1 the trigger bar doesn't seat securely inside the notch for the trigger pack. The directions are extremely confusing about this part.
#2 there is something important about the spring in the directions but I don't understand what it's saying at all.
#3 I think my mag release spring is in there correctly but I'm not sure