u/crashpdx55

When did Ludwig stopping putting internal muffling on the LM400? I’m in the market for a used Supraphonic and the pictures of one from the 70s (based on having the Ludwig “pointy” badge) show an internal muffler. Good/bad? I like having an internal muffler, but Ludwig must have had some reason for removing it, unless it was just an expense-saving move. I suppose that it’s possible that the internal muffler was added, but I’m not brave enough to drill into a metal shell.

The Pearl Sensitone 14x6.5 is about half the price of the Ludwig Supraphonic. Is it half the drum? The Ludwig has the name and heritage, but if price is a consideration, which it is, will the Pearl get the job done as well or nearly as well?

Edit: I’m referring to the Pearl Sensitone aluminum model. I’m looking for a 14x6.5 aluminum snare. There would be nothing wrong, at all, with the Ludwig Supraphonic, and it would keep its resale value on Reverb, but if the Pearl and Ludwig are very close, I’d get the Pearl. I don’t care about the externals, I’m about the sound and playability.

Heard Tyrone Hendrix the other night—great drummer and very friendly. After his set I asked about his kit: Yamaha Stage Custom that night, which he made sound incredible. He was on his way out with the band as I asked about his snare, and all I heard was that it was a 13 inch Ludwig. I didn’t get the model, but asked about using brushes (which he did incredibly well) on a smaller surface area, and he said you just needed the right heads, such as Calftone.

The snare looked aluminum, but was it likely a Supralite? I wouldn’t be surprised—talent can make anything sound great.

Is there a good snare stand with a quick-release feature that works well? I like to cycle through snares during practice, and I wish there were a smoother way to do it rather than just getting a bunch of stands to have set up that would clog up the area. I’d prefer to leave the snares on the rack and work them in.

Want to add a Ludwig Acrolite. Are there any reasons to get a vintage 60s or 70s instead of a new one, purely in terms of it as a working instrument, i.e., tonality, adjustability, responsiveness? I’ve read that the original throw-offs might need replacing, but that’s fine. Not interested in vintage just for the sake of vintage.

Sound mitigation at the house isn’t enough to keep wife happy with other than playing for less time than I need to. Drummer friend, who’s sponsored—or whatever the term is—by Yamaha, recommended the Yamaha DTX8. I’m going to a local drum shop to try it out.

Would love to try the beautiful high-end DW electronic sets, but the price tag is too high. $3,000 for domestic harmony is worth it, though. I’ll look for used and see what is available.

I’ve only played a very cheap Alesis when first starting, and quickly moved to acoustic drums because I just didn’t like the feel of the pads. I assume that there’ll be a lot of compromises with an electronic set. Any thoughts on which has the best feel and response?

Are there real downsides to buying B-stock? Instead of $999, a B-stock version of a Black Beauty goes for $849, so $150 or 15% less. Other than possible manufacturing-blemishes, and lower resale value, is there any issue? It looks like there may be a different badge on Ludwig B-stock, but I don’t know if there actually is, although that would only affect resale value.

The prices of the Ludwig 14 x 6.5 Mahogany snares are $350 for the Universal model and $1,000 for the Legacy model. Is the Legacy really worth three times the Universal?

Follow-up: What I care about is the sound, feel, tuning range, etc., which I believe can be adjusted substantially for each, like for any drum. I am looking for the mellower mahogany tone, so I guess the question actually is whether the ply construction of the Universal produces a significantly poorer sound than the solid shell of the Legacy. I didn’t know that was one of the differences between the models, and I can only guess what effect that could have.

I was taught to use the match grip, and have intensely practiced that. However, when I just relax and play along to jazz that I listen to, I naturally switch to a traditional grip on both hands. A professional percussionist—drummer turned marimba performer and teacher—told me, though, that that grip was a compromise for marching drummers many years ago and it’s definitely a compromise and isn’t the best choice, but I wasn’t clear why—I think because it limited your options, but I don’t know that. I find that I can play more softly on the ride and snare, and it feels right for certain types of music, but will it cause problems in the long run? Do some drummers use both, and switch depending on the music? I know that music is personal choice, feel, and preference, but is the traditional grip—especially on both hands—something to be avoided for any specific reason?

Has anyone had good experience with a Dialtune snare drum? Their video looks compelling, but I don’t trust promotional videos any more.

UPDATE: After a couple of suggestions about the Ludwig Carl Palmer 14 x 3.5 piccolo snare, I found that the local drum shop not only carries them, but says they’re the most popular Ludwig snare they sell. It sounded perfect, so I’m going with that model. It probably won’t be my only piccolo snare, but it’s all I need now—very responsive, just the sound I was looking for, and they say it’s tuning is surprisingly adjustable in spite of its depth. Also, a reasonable entry price point.

Wanting to add a piccolo snare to four wood snares (Sonor 13 x 6 poplar; Yamaha Recording Custom 14 x 8 birch; Ludwig Jazz Fest 14 x 5.5 mahogany; Mapex Black Panther 14 x 5 maple) and a metal snare (Ludwig Suprasonic 14 x 5, LM 400T chrome over aluminum).

Just want to start with one; considering Mapex Maple/poplar 14 x 3.5 or Pearl 14 x 3.5 black steel. Can’t find much in local drum stores to try out, except for vintage/collector expensive stuff that I’m not into. Want a sharp attack, thinking maybe the Mapex maple/poplar might be a good starting place. May not use it that much, so I don’t want to drop a lot of coin. Obviously it’s personal taste, etc.,, but any input on piccolos would be appreciated.

Are pedals better than others for heel-down playing?

Decided on a Speed Cobra 910 for the Cobra Coil return spring and longer footboard, but what is the difference with the Iron Cobra, which is about the same price? I play heel down.

On a bop-kit bass drum, is a port—for potential muffling, not miking—beneficial, harmful, or neutral? Will have a single felt strip on the batter head, an Evans HD Dry at the moment, but considering Remo Fiberskyn.

Got a Mapex Black Panther Equinox 14 x 5—which I totally love—and it came with a Remo Fiberskyn Diplomat head. Love the sound of the drum, actually better than the Yamaha Recording Custom 14 x 8 with an Evans HD Dry. Both are tuned similarly. I understand that they are different drums: 5 vs 8 inch depth and maple vs. birch, which is probably the biggest difference. Really tempted to try a synthetic calfskin on the Yamaha, and maybe the Yamaha Recording Custom toms as well. I’ve read reviews that indicate some Calftones have durability problems right away and don’t last, although I’m mainly interested in the sound and playability, e.g., for brushes. I might just get both and try them, unless the consensus is that one is clearly better. If they’re close, I’ll try both.

Any difference, other than price, between these bass drum heads with built-in muffling? Looking for solid punch in an 18” bop kit, mainly for jazz. Probably will tune higher than is standard, for the jazz sound, but don’t know if that works with these heads.

Thoughts on the differences between a Ludwig Jazz Fest 14 x 5.5 mahogany shell and a Ludwig Classic Maple 14 x 6.5? Looking for a warmer sound than I’m getting from my current birch snare.