When to change FEP
Hi, newbie to resin printing. Bought Saturn 4 Ultra 16K recently, and FEP counter shows 58k layers. When should I consider replacing it? Any specific brand would you recommend or just buy from Elegoo?
Hi, newbie to resin printing. Bought Saturn 4 Ultra 16K recently, and FEP counter shows 58k layers. When should I consider replacing it? Any specific brand would you recommend or just buy from Elegoo?
I have Saturn 4 and print mostly functional parts. Noticed a straight line, going horizontally every 6mm, with 0.03 layer this would seem 200 layers. Any idea what might cause such artifact?
Hi everyone, truing to calibrate exposure on a brand new Saturn 4 Ultra 16K version, using Anycubics ABS-Line Pro 2 - as I have this left after a Mono 4.
I have configured "RERF" counterpart of Elegoo, to shoot between 1.6s to 3.6s and... I don't seem to be able to notice much difference between printer validation matrices. They all have 13-14 poles, and 13 holes, but also they all seem kinda... melty? Look on the letters for example on the picture.
I vaguely recall that I've seen some video where the guy claimed that on 16K Saturns the default UV LED power is set too high, and he managed to get proper results after setting git to 75%. Can this be the case?
Sliced with Chitubox, settings screen attached.
I want to buy a printer, had Mono 4 Ultra for few days, but I had to return it because of few issues.
Out of the three in the topic, which would you choose quality wise?
How about the software aspect?
I want to buy a printer, had Mono 4 Ultra for few days, but I had to return it because of few issues.
Out of the three in the topic, which would you choose quality wise?
How about the software aspect?
Hi everyone, new to EdgeTX and ELRS and I'm tinkering a lot. Is there some online place, community, where users share their scripts, themes or mods?
In general for EdgeTX but also in particular for TX15
Prints are generally all right - M4 ultra - however I get these ugly uneven surfaces on the buildplate side of the model, between the supports. What can be the reason, how can I get rid of that?
I don't mind post support holes, as they are unevitable (are they?)
My problem is that uneven like flowy surface between them.
Anycubic ABS-Like Pro 2
exp. 2.2s
0.3 layer
24C ambient
Hi!
I attempt to revive a prusa I built probably a decade ago.
What would be your recommendations as for the hotend (direct extruder), stepper drivers (Heard these new TMC2209 are pretty quiet) and printing surface?
1 - HOTENDS:
I'd like to keep the budget tight, so no hotends for 100 bucks please ;)
Some interesting examples I found below, but no idea which to choose:
A https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003366794825.html
B https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010327221980.html
C https://aliexpress.com/item/1005008625753387.html
D https://aliexpress.com/item/1005008569439689.html
2 - STEPPER DRIVER:
As above - TMC2209? Any particular model/design?
3 - BUILD SURFACE or whatever it's called:
I printed on a piece of glass panel (cut multiple and chosed the flattest) with heating pad underneath, which had a glass wool insulation below.
I assume the top surface could be changed/added as nowadays there are pretty fancy, right?
4 - EXTRUDER
I have a direct using gear reduction and... big screw to push filament. I think it was the weakest link in my setup. Rebuild? Direct or bowden?
Hi everyone! I just bought Radiomaster RP4TD, it's my first ELRS receiver and I am refreshing (quite old) quadcopter.
I would like to stuck it between frame elements - how hot does it get? I guess the telemetry TX is what heats it up the most?
Can you pinpoint which elements should I look at in terms of heat?