u/darktideDay1

First off, I have to say that I was given the Wolfbox Megavolt 24 to review. Wolfbox in no way at all tried to influence my review. What follows is my honest opinion of the product.

The Megavolt 24 is an all in one jump pack and tire inflator. It is an all in one, so no plugging into the car to power the compressor, which is very convinient.

For the first test, I decided to test the air compressor. I started on my car and deflated the tire down to about 10 PSI. I checked the starting pressure with a quality air pressure gauge. Upon connecting the MegaVolt 24, I was a little surprised to see that it agreed exactly with the analog gauge. I set the desired inflation pressure of 30 P.S.I. and started it up.

While not fast, the unit isn't slow either. A few minutes later the compressor shut itself off. I checked the pressure with the analog gauge and once again, it was spot on. I checked the tires of both our cars and topped up a couple. The battery still read full.

I gave it about 1/2 hour cool down and then I took it over to our van. I deflated one tire down to 10 P.S.I.. The Megavolt 24 took almost 8 minutes to get it pumped up to 60 P.S.I.. By the time it was done the unit was warm and the battery read about 1/2 full. So it will do a 245/75/R16 to full pressure and probably in a pinch inflate two.

After allowing the unit to charge it was time to test the jump pack side of it. I have an 1992 pickup with a V8 that I use a few times a year for things like dump runs or firewood. So the battery is always dead and I just jump start it when I use it. The battery is so old I have no idea when it was last replaced. Since it is an old truck I can disconnect the ignition system and make sure the vehicle doesn't start.

I did 10 cranks of 5 seconds each with 30 seconds in between. No problem. I let the starter cool down for about 10 minutes and then did it again. No problem. Then I hooked the ignition back up and started the truck normally, no problem. The battery still read about 1/2 full.

So, overall it is a great little unit. While it is not an offroad compressor for air down/up, it is perfect for an emergency back up for any vehicle. I'm glad to have it in the trunk of my Subaru and I'm sure it will come in handy.

I'm trying to source a pot for an old Curtis PB-8 style throttle. Since the throttle can only move about 60 degrees, it seems that the actual value of the pot end to end must be higher than 5k if it varies by 5k over 60 degrees. That would be about 83 ohms per degree of movement. That would make the pot about 22.5k end to end.

Does that make sense? Or is it a special pot with only 60 degrees of movement?

I have a Cerbo in a shipping container. I'd like to add a water tank sensor but the water tank is 70 feet away and then there is the steel shipping container and the comms are bluetooth.

So, I need a range extender. It's either going to have to have an external antenna I can run out of the container or put the whole unit outside and run a USB cable back in.

The range extenders I see seem to be oriented towards music, but they shoud work for data too, right? Any particular unit folks can recommend?

Fun little shaker this morning. I heard it was 7 miles from Willits. I wonder if there will be any reports of damage there.

A while back I posted about an FT-897 that was losing memories, forgetting what band/frequency the radio was last on and refusing to TX and throwing up an error unless a factory reset was done. Next time you turned it on you almost always had the same issues, although sometimes it would work.

I couldn't find anyone with a similar issue. I figured that the EEPROM was a likely culprit. I finally got around to getting a new one and putting it in. Easy job, as SMD parts go. Just make sure to cover the addressing resistors with aluminum tape, as well as the other IC's close by. Used hot air to get the old EEPROM off, solder wick and iron to clean pads. Solder paste and flux and hot air to set in place, then hit each pins with a fine tip soldering iron to make sure.

Bingo! The radio seems to work fine. It's been a week and it has been operating normally. I post this just in case anyone else ever runs into a similar issue they may find this post.

I ride where there is no cell phone but excellent repeater coverage and easy simplex to home. As an older bicyclist my wife insists I carry a radio and I don't disagree. I'm tired of trying to keep a radio on my belt or in a pocket. Anyone know of a good holder for HT's for a bicycle?  I am using a VX6R. The ones I see when I look for "bicycle holder" that sort of clamp on are never going to hold on to the radio when riding trail. When I search for "holster" I get all molle style. Maybe I could modify one of those. But I would love an off the shelf solution that securely holds the radio and straps to the handle bars. 

I ride where there is no cell phone but excellent repeater coverage and easy simplex to home. As an older bicyclist my wife insists I carry a radio and I don't disagree. I'm tired of trying to keep a radio on my belt or in a pocket. Anyone know of a good holder for HT's for a bicycle?  I am using a VX6R. The ones I see when I look for "bicycle holder" that sort of clamp on are never going to hold on to the radio when riding trail. When I search for "holster" I get all molle style. Maybe I could modify one of those. But I would love an off the shelf solution that securely holds the radio and straps to the handle bars. 

I tried to send a disk image to a gmail account from a non-gmail account. it bounced. I thought I had the address wrong so I tried again. then I saw it was rejected for suspicious content. The disk image was a ham radio programming file, nothing malicious.

Now I can't send email to gmail accounts. The just disappear. They don't bounce but they never arrive. How can I appeal this ban?

I've been working on an SL-1200mk2. I have the board recapped and the unit functioning. Turns out though that the tone arm bearing is borked. So it needs a new tone arm.

It has some other issues. Missing the tone arm raising lever. I freed up the tone arm height mechanism and while it works, the numbers do not line up with the pointer in spite of following the alignment and assembly.

Neither of the main issues is a deal breaker. I can manually adjust the tone arm height. So far I have $25 into the unit. If I get a tone arm I'm getting in around $300 deep. And while I *think* that would get it in operation, how do I know if the anti0skate or something else doesn't work?

I'm not sure if it is worth it. Or what a comparable new TT would cost. Opinions?

I got this SL-1200mk2 years ago from my local NPR station. I used to volunteer there for technical stuff, transmitters, translators and such. The turntable was going to be tossed, so I grabbed it and stuck it in the shed. The serial number says it is from 1989. I am finally getting around to restoring it back to (hopefully) usable condition. I'll say it is (was) pretty rough. 45 switch not working, strobe not strobing, stylus light busted and dirty as all get out. No shell or cart. But it powered up and spun, so that gave me hope it might be fixable.

Pulling it apart and yuck, so nasty. I have long known that DJ's are filthy creatures of the night, or at least the ones that worked at my radio station were. (Relax, DJ's are wonderful people)  I found the roach of a joint in there! I mean what, you pulled of the platter and threw a roach in there or what?! Plus about a pound and a half of dirt and grime. Anyway, got it cleaned up and started work.

Upon inspecting the circuit board, I see four clipped wires. Looking at other units, I don't see these wires and they look tacked on, like some kind of mod. Anyone have any idea what they could be for?  Here is a pic with the wires circled.

https://preview.redd.it/45t1mr2fqc1h1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d433b35e94099507042ce9158ae8046b94db8c2b

Other than that, I have a resto kit off of ebay with the caps and whatnot and it looks pretty straight forward to get that part done.

Freeing up the 45 switch was easy. I have continuity from the end of the tone arm to the RCA plugs, so that is a good sign. However, the tone arm height adjustment was completely seized. Spent quite a bit of time on that. Finally gave up and left it with tons of Free All on it over night. Got it freed up this AM but the bezel with the number came unglued. Looked like a bit of contact cement on there so I figured I would use the same. But when I went to put it on it started sticking right away and I don't think I can be sure of getting it to the detent for correct positioning. So I am going to clean off the contact cement and try another glue. 5 minute epoxy seems so permanent. Any other suggestions? 

While I wait for sage advice, I'll get to work in the electronics. Use a little Caig deoxit on the slider, I don't have any fader lube. Start replacing parts on the main board. Anyone know what to use for the slider felt? Mine is shot. And if you know of a good walk through for restoring these a link would be appreciated.

Anyone know if a Japanese model can be MARS modded to work in the US or will it brick? A friend bought one off of that auction site not knowing he needed an R. And yes, he is a licensed, responsible ham and will only use it accordingly.

I ordered a Cornet 3 kit. So I was poking around in the tube stash and found a Radtel 12AU7A. Upon opening the box, I found a tube marked NUCLEAR MADE IN USA 12AU7A. It has another, more typical 12AU7A mark on the other side.

Radtel was one of those outfits that bought tubes and either washed off the markings and re-branded them or just shoved them in their own box. The only other reference to "nuclear" and 12AU7 brings up some made by Phillips. They had an atomic symbol and of course were not made in the USA.

Anybody know about this tube? For damn sure I am going to use it in the Cornet 3. I have some RCA and some 12AU7WA but this is just too cool not to use.

https://preview.redd.it/orkzcjwo17yg1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7161db11621baa1b6d953ff6e0f68e2c1c26a4af

I can't seem to find a two tank, auto switch over propane regulator that isn't a POS. I've recently had a Marshall MEGR253 that lasted about 6 months and then one from Crapazon that had the best reviews and it didn't work correctly right out of the box. It was winter and I needed it so I dealt with the fact that it wouldn't empty tanks all the way before it switched. Today it finally crapped all the way out.

So, any recommendations?