u/dgv54

I checked with Midea, and they state they do not offer 14k BTU, 120v, inverter tech window AC units, despite Amazon listing under seller Midea that claims model MAW14S1VWT-A meets all those criteria: https://www.amazon.com/Midea-Inverter-Conditioner-Operation-Installation/dp/B0DXDVZXH2/

I had hoped Midea had such an offering, since I've had good experience with one of their 8k BTU inverter window AC's, but I guess no luck.

Any other manufacturers making 14k BTU, 120v, inverter models that are well built?

I like my Midea 8k BTU window unit, and looking for a 12k BTU unit. Midea has 6 inverter models. I've noted some of the notable distinguishing features.

MAW12V1QWT: U-shape, Matter, 1yr warranty

MAW12V1YWT-S: box shape, Matter, 2yr warranty

MAW12RV1CWT: box shape, 3yr warranty

MAW12U1QWT: U-shape, Matter, 3yr warranty

MAW12U2QWT: U-shape, Matter, 3yr warranty

MAW12HV1CWT: box shape, heat, Matter, 1yr warranty

Not sure on the Matter spec - Midea website seems to be using generic images for their product pages, and that's where Matter is mentioned, not in a spec table.

Anyway, the obvious differences are the shape, 1 model has heat (outdoor temp > 41F). I don't care too much about either shape (this is going in a window that has an adjacent window, so I would open that window for fresh air, though U-shape still has a noise advantage) or heat. They all weigh between 51 and 58 lbs. Given that they all cost about the same, I suppose I should lean toward the models with 3yr warranty.

Any other differentiating factors I should consider?

Are the traditional box shape Midea window units easier to air seal? The 8k BTU U-shape I have is difficult to air seal as it has very small and inaccessible gaps where the unit sits on the window sill. But I guess I can use some window insulating tape to cover everything along the bottom rather than try and seal each nook and cranny.

Where the U-shaped AC slides onto the mounting bracket, there are small air gaps - large enough for bugs to crawl through and certainly enough for air to migrate. Access is very limited. Short of spray foam (which obviously I'm not going to do), how do you seal this area?

If I set up a AIO off-grid 48v inverter and 48v LiFePO4 battery and use this to power a couple of house circuits via load center or transfer switch, in the future once balcony solar becomes operational in my state, can I connect the battery into an Ecoflow Stream or other balcony solar compliant microinverter's PV input and have it pull 1200w from the battery which I then dump into house/grid via a dedicated 120v outlet?

Would the Stream microinverter and AIO inverter both accurately reflect battery voltage and state of charge?

If this setup would work, it would save me from having to get dedicated battery and solar panels for the balcony solar microinverter.

This video shows how a barebones balcony solar setup (panels, grid sensing balcony solar compliant microinverter) can be enhanced with battery storage (add battery, MPPT solar charge controller). The way he has it set up, everything would be outside.

This creates various issues - you'd probably want some kind of housing, and you might want some kind of climate control if you get very hot summers or very cold winters. And in my case, I work from home, so I'd be moving the panels around to 'chase the sun', so whatever housing/cabinet would also need to be mobile.

How could some of the equipment be moved indoors without spending a fortune on cabling? Maybe a MPPT solar charge controller that allows for high voltage so you can wire more panels in series, thus lowering amperage and allowing for less expensive wire? So you run long MC4 extension cables from solar panels to wherever in the house the setup is, and that's where the solar charge controller, battery and microinverter are stored, safe from the elements. Does that make sense?

I'm thinking of using 200w panels (starting with 6 panels, and expanding down the road), and these tend to be 24-27Voc. Maybe 3 in series (3S) and each group of 3 in parallel (e.g., 3S2P, 3S3P, etc.)? Or even 4 in series (4S)? I'd be using a 48v battery.

I currently have 6500 running watt non-inverter generator for power outages. But most of the outages in my area last only several hours, so I usually don't bother to lug out the generator. Considering getting a small PPS, like the Delta 3 or Delta 3 Plus, to serve as primary backup during an outage, and if outage is longer, use a gas generator to charge the PPS. As part of this, I'm considering replacing my gas generator with an inverter generator.

During an outage, I'd want to power refrigerator, separate freezer, internet, network extenders, PC, a dozen LED light fixtures, a couple of fans in the summer, or my boiler in the winter (uses electricity for electronics and recirculating pumps). Additionally power on very intermittent basis and non-simultaneously, a microwave, dishwasher (no heated dry cycle).

Would a 1kWh PPS like the Delta 3 work for this use case? Does pairing that up with a 3500 running watt inverter generator make sense? If these are poor choices, what would you recommend for a budget setup? Trying to keep combined cost of PPS and gas generator under ~$1k.

I got a great tip from a pro in this subreddit on working along the edge of an attic under low slope roof when you are moving perpendicular to the attic floor joists - get two 6ft long, 6" wide boards, then you lay on one board and do whatever in one bay (remove old insulation, spray foam, add new insulation), then when you're ready to move to next bay, you slide the other board up, roll onto it, slide the first board up, and roll back onto it. This works well and is much more efficient than going all the way back toward center/taller part of attic, then having to get flat as you go back toward the edge.

On hip roofs, there are 2 sides where you are moving parallel to the attic floor joists. Any tips for working along the edge here?