Just wanted to use the lens on my digital camera for a change for a quick photo. I normally use it on film. It's amazing.
This is at f/2.
I am looking at both options, and while on paper they are quite different, the appeal for both is that they work well with all the F mount glass – even manual focus lenses – that I have.
I know it’s an old DSLR vs a mirrorless, but they have similar resolution, they have similar dynamic range and low light performance, etc…
Has anybody used both and can share how different the results really are?
How is the Zf manual focusing notification with face/eye detection, vs the D750 focus confirmation for manual focus lenses?
I own a bunch of Pentax manual focus lenses that I could use on the Zf, but also a bunch of Ai-s and AF-s lenses that would natively go on the D750 and of course on the Zf with an adapter.
I have a Fujifilm mirrorless camera, so the draw to the Zf really would be to shoot all my vintage lenses natively on full frame size. The draw to the D750 is to shoot it along side my film photography cameras (MF and AF bodies, enthusiast to pro level) and share the same lenses easily.
Apart from setting the exposure through the choice of film speed, placing your subject into the centre, and aim for a symmetrical composition, and advice how to tame the Holga?
Last year the categories were “Effect” (e.g. purposeful light leaks), Nature, Portrait, Pinhole, Street
Especially fond of the K and FA limited series Pentax lenses.
I could do away with 2/3rds and would still have more than enough. GAS was balancing out some pretty toxic jobs between 2021-2025.
Taking a deep breath, to think about what to part with, but parting is always harder than buying.
Love the Pentax lenses I have, but also, Nikon pro bodies are just build to last forever.
Gotten two Pentax 67, with the thought to test them and then sell on one, but why selling, they only get more rare.
The Fujica set is largely redundant, given the Pentax 67. I took a gamble on that one a while back, but unfortunately the lenses have mild haze and leaf shutter issues.
The Ricoh KR-5 is my first film camera, and needs a repair and the second one is the donor body.
One Holga has a modification that allows you to choose a shutter speed electronically.
The LXs, the silver MX, the F3 are all professionally serviced. The F2 needs a service.
The FM2 and FE/2 probably could be sold on, as could the F100. But then again why.
Loads of duplicated lenses. The Pentax M 50mm f/1.7 basically comes often for “free”, and I used the fact that I have so many of them in the past to do side by side comparisons for different film stocks.
The Mamiya I sometimes use in a studio.
The Canonet hasn’t seen much use yet.
Anyhow, thank you for coming to my TED talk.
Is hand rolling legal there? I heard Asia is strict with these things.
[Limited time offer] MF old product maintenance service
Limited-time maintenance for products that customers have been using for a long time, such as MF (manual focus) SLR cameras and MF single-focus lenses of each series of F, F2, F3, FM/FM2, and FE/FE2 series
Inspection and cleaning items
MF SLR camera [10 items]
Winding mechanism inspection
Rewind mechanism inspection
Shutter speed inspection
Exposure accuracy check
Infinite match inspection
Body bag inspection
Mirror operation inspection
Speed light lighting and tuning inspection
Appearance malt plane confirmation and replacement
Exterior cleaning
MF lens [6 items]
Infinite match inspection
Distance ring operation inspection
Aperture ring operation inspection
Inspection of the operation of the speeze blade
Inspection of debris and mold in the lens
Exterior cleaning
How to use
Application
This service is only available for direct delivery to the Nikon repair center or by phone for repair application.
Application acceptance period
September 1, 2026 (Tuesday) - October 30, 2026 (Friday)
Please note that even if you bring it to our service organization outside the application acceptance period, it will not be accepted.
The little pouch carries the two extra lenses and a few rolls of film.
Fantastic setup.
On the weekend I had a much heavier kit (fast K generation lenses) with me, and I kind of regretted it. I did that, because the filter I wanted to use didn’t match these lenses, and I couldn’t find the step-up ring. Several hundred grams can make a difference if you carry it lopsided on a longer walk.
Is this too dense?
Developed Rollei Retro 400s and I think the development times were too long.
I want to find a good exposure index and development time for Rollei Retro 400S in 510 Pyro. 510 Pyro because it can handle the built in contrast of the film well due to the stain development which protects the highlights.
As this film is not a native ISO 400 film, I want to find a good balance at which exposure index to shoot it to get more shadow detail.
I shot this one at EI 100 (two stops under box speed), but “pulled” the development time only one stop under box speed (22 minutes minus 20% —> 18 minutes).
I suppose this is too long of a development, and it would be recommended to repeat this experiment at EI and 14 minutes development time in 510 Pyro.
How overdeveloped does the result look to you? Slightly? Very?
For reference, the second image is Kentmere 400 in Xtol replenishment. A development and film combination I use fairly often, so this would be a reference point for me.
Looks overdeveloped to me.
The third image is the characteristic curve that The Naked Photographer (YouTube) sketched out. To his mind, given the shadow details/toe, the native ISO of Rollei Retro 400s is actually a full four stops under box speed, so ISO 25. I don’t know about that verdict, but I just wanted to get more shadow details than shooting at 400 would result.
EI 100
510 Pyro 1:100 18min (maybe a bit overdeveloped? Still scam well)