r/Darkroom

Cross processed Aerocolor in E6. Looks pretty dark. First time doing E6 so not confident in my troubleshooting. Used Unicolor e6 kit. My experience in normal dev plus knowledge of the process tells me too long in the first dev or underexposed, but I rated it at 100ISO and my camera light meter is accurate when compared to a L-858. So probably too long first dev? I followed the kits instructions to a T however. Unsure where I went wrong. Pic 1 is held up to light, pic 2 is on the light table. Results online of this cross process on the light table looks much better

delta 100 and pan f+, Adox XT3 1+1

Ilford Multigrade 8x10 in Ilford developer

critique welcome

I’m gonna chalk this one up to my concussion and my adhd. I don’t retain as much detailed memory of what I was doing as much these days and I only developed some of my box from a trip cause i easily get side tracked and I thought this was my e6 shots. I knew I had missing photos of FP4 and this explains it.

E6 chems still worked afterwards so I guess thats something note down.

This enlarger is one i got for 5 euros, can’t find anything about this brand , maybe you’ve seen a post with this same enlarger? turns out he was the one i got this from . same enlarger!

It’s basically just a licht bulb and a pretty rare lens actually. but damn i got some nice prints !

(just to add, i didn’t even bracket those 3 prints and just went for it . little overexposed and i didn’t even use filters yet but im very happy !)

just wanted to show off . thanks yall!

Hi!

I found this super expired roll of film in a dresser I bought off of facebook marketplace so I have no idea how it’s been stored.

It’s a Seattle FilmWorks 35mm roll of color film ASA/ISO200.

I’ve read that I should adjust the ISO setting on my camera in order to overexpose the film since it’s old. My camera can only be set to as low as ISO 100.

I’m a little newer to film so I’d love to hear the best way of shooting this and getting it developed (should I push it a stop or two)?

Thanks in advance! Excited to see how this turns out!

Hi all, I recently bought a house with what seems to be a darkroom in the basement. I have attached photos of the area. I’m interested in restoring this room and learning a new hobby! Any tips or feedback is appreciated!

Cleaning out my garage and was wondering if anybody was interested in both of these, if you can meet me near Katy Texas in the next couple of days you can have it. The enlarger was working the last time I plugged it in about two years ago

Opened a can with this rare ORWO PC7 color positive for cinema copies, I develope this film using these settings:

• Developer: Cinestill ECN-2 developer (make up 1 liter from the bag), add 1.2 g/L CD-3 and 100 mg/L BZT. Stir for 1 hour at 45°C.
• Exposure: Rate the PC7 at ISO1
• Development: 40 minutes at 20°C. Continuous inversions for the first minute, then one inversion after 20 minutes.
• Stop bath: 2% vinegar for 1 minute.
• Rinse: About 15 minutes. This is an important step to minimize staining/discoloration caused by the following bleach.
• Bleach: 5–10 minutes, depending on how exhausted the bleach already is.
• Wash: 5 minutes.
• Fix: I use a milder sodium thiosulfate fixer.

Not the easiest film to deal with as the negatives are quite orange (so blue tint when inverted) but with a nice clear base. I also tried shooting with a 85b filter, but that also kills much of the green sensitiviy.

I assume the developer is fully oxidized out of the pack?

I recently bought a LAIK heated flattening plate for about €19, with no

prior reviews or recommendations. Since I couldn’t find any real-world

tests, I decided to document mine. The results should also be applicable

to similar heated flattening plates.

This is not a product review. I only tested its primary purpose:

flattening fibre-based photographic paper.

Paper:

- Fomabrom Variant 111 FB (glossy fibre paper)

Test procedure:

The metal plate (which appears to be stainless steel, although I cannot

confirm the material) was thoroughly cleaned before use.

The plate was preheated before every test.

Each print was placed emulsion side up.

To protect the print, I made a simple sandwich using two sheets of

tissue paper: - one below the print, - one above the print.

No additional pressure was applied other than the plate itself.

Test sequence:

Test 1 - 80°C - 60 seconds

Test 2 - 85°C - 60 seconds

Test 3 - 90°C - 90 seconds

Each print was photographed/scanned before and after flattening.

Results:

Flattening: Excellent.

All prints became essentially flat.

Surface: This was the biggest surprise.

The paper feels noticeably denser and more homogeneous after treatment,

almost like a pressed illustration board rather than a traditional fibre

print.

The surface also appears slightly smoother and more uniform.

Dmax

I compared the scans before and after flattening.

I could not measure any objective increase in Dmax.

However, when viewing the physical prints under normal lighting, there

is a slight subjective impression of deeper blacks. This may simply be

the result of a smoother surface reflecting light more evenly rather

than an actual increase in silver density.

At this stage I consider this an observation, not a proven effect.

Conclusion

For €19, I’m genuinely impressed.

If your goal is simply to flatten FB prints, this little plate performs

far better than I expected.

I’m attaching the before/after scans and the test prints.

Had a few of these lately so i thought id post here as a learning experience for myself and others. Ive posted my suggestions but If others have different ideas id be keen to hear.

First chem is from my ilfocolour e6 kit. I was pouring the conditioner into the bottle and a few small jelly looking clumps formed but did not seem to effect the chemistry as my results are fine.

2nd chem is the conditioner from the bellini black and white reversal kit. I think its the emulsion. The kit had some bad chems and not my first bad chems from bellini so wont be using that kit again or their chems.

3rd is from the ilfocolour e6 kit. Developer went pink. I think its was just the heavy about of dye on the particular e6 chems but it didn’t effect the film when i developed further rolls.