Paper: Fuji DPII matte
Enlarger: Durst Laborator 1200/CLS 501
Size: 25x25cm (on 30x40cm paper, one copy each for my archival sleeve and for display, I cut the latter down to 30x30cm to arrange them as a mosaic on my walls)
Unfortunately it's not immediately visible, but you can see the Great Wall of China in the bottom left corner of the first print (2h exposure while I was camping inside another guardtower)!
While it’s a pain in the back to flip the enlarger around for 20x24 fiber prints, it’s always a treat when they come out
is there any difference *****AT ALL*****(please get as pedantic as possible) between a print at f8 20s and f16 and 80s? is it literally the same print? my darkroom teachers once said something about time adding to the midtones, so I've always had the vague conception that added-time=better, please advise!
Shot Ilford Pan 50F 120 on my Mamiya RB67. No light leaks on this roll, so either my fixes worked or it was too dark and too low of an ISO film to have leaking issues.
I have seen a lot of strategies for Pan 50F, but I decided to try dilution E to extend the development time a little bit and hopefully retain a little more highlight and shadow detail.
F8 1/2 sec, mostly exposed for the shadows, knowing the backlit leaves would be a little hot. I’m fairly happy with how much detail was retained.
I ran out of Dektol today, so I experimented with HC-110. I saw some people on Reddit saying the prints came out lacking contrast and detail—and I don't doubt that's true—but luckily, I found an old website recommending Dilution A. I used a 2-minute development time, and to me, it looks good. What do you all think? I only made one print, but it's something I'd use again if I didn't have anything else available. Here is the site where I got the dilution info: https://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/