r/Darkroom

It's been 8 months since the last time I processed films at home. Apparently I forgot how to process films because the rolls I processed today turned out greenish/bluish at the end of the strip as can be seen in the photo.

I used fresh chemicals and the films are new, so I think I messed up agitation or something?

Howdy all,

Just for fun I started trying semi-stand development. Pictured are two rolls I developed in the same tank, and I am just trying to understand what I am seeing. Why is the right film strip so much less dense (is that the right word?)? I have stand developed only a few times before this, so I don't know if this is a normal issue or what.

Film on left is Kodak Tri-x400 and the right is Ilford SFX.

I did 600g of water with 10g of HC-110. Two inversions to start and then another two after 30 minutes.

Both films were shot with the same camera (Minolta 7000) and I have not had too many issues with it metering.

Picture two is the SFX up close and picture three is the tri-x up close. I am just curious as to what might have caused such a different result between the two.

Thanks!

hi, today I developed a roll of Fomapan 400 with somewhat old Rodinal (1+50, 12min) and the whole roll is completely blank- even the film leader is just slightly darker. What could have caused it? I would suspect my mistake in exposing it, but it doesn’t explain the film leader being blank. Could old fixer cause it? I’m not sure how many films I already fixed with it, so it might be oversaturated, but in this case I think at least something would be visible? I’m really puzzled, so I’ll be grateful for any ideas so I don’t ruin more film XD

I’m new to darkroom print and I tried make it A4 size but it’s not focus. Does anyone know how to do A4 size print

First time developing BW slides using the adox kit, tried to follow instructions step by step, by the second exposure everything look ok, I put a picture of the roll on the moment of the second exposition, images had contrast and the film base was white.

but after the second everything became almost black I can still see the images with a very strong backlight, but on a first sight they are just black,

I can’t understand why and it seems the film was not inverted at least on most of the slides while others they do look like somewhat inverted (I have a picture with my hair white and another with it being black).

The only think I can think of is having warmer water than required on the second development.

Any idea on what went wrong?

I wonder what should i do with NEW orwo eu2 photosensitive glass packs i have about 60of and don’t know in what applications were they used i think mainly was used for microscope photography but can they be used in some other way?

Update: thank you for the help and answers, I have ordered new developer.

Hi,

I'm in a bit of a bind, and can't figure out where things went wrong.

I mixed up a new develop (5L of XT-3), a new Stop (Ilford) and a new Fixer (Ilford).

Some how along the line, something started going wrong - my negatives are turning up thin (blank'ish).

The snip test (which I always do as I only develop 1-2 times a month), show that everything is fine.

It looks over developed, but I am not sure. The edge signing is partly visible, so are the photos. Ilfords troubleshooting document point in different directions and I am lost.

Edit: addition

Kentmere Pan 200, in XT-3 stock, at 19.5C for 7:17 minutes. Rotation, where I subtract 10% from the hand processing time. I'm using B's processor.

Edit: addition 2

Loaded a canister up with 5 frames, used a different camera (Nikon F3) and ended up with a fully blank stripe. See added photo.

Edit: addition 3.

It was suggested that it is caused by a bad developer, I've ordered a new package. Then I'll see if the problem indeed was a bad developer. Otherwise I'll look at the fixer.

The photographer uses Lucky v70 enlarger and Fujifilm Pro-G(glossy) color paper.
Soft filter? Anti newton ring glass? Print techniques(Pre flash)? or scanning techniques?

Thank you for any help in advance... I've just stsrted to mix the bellini ecn2 kit and it's thoroughly confusing.

1. It makes 10 litres of stabiliser (final rinse?) but doesn't say how often you should change it. The kit officially does 12 films.
2. It says "use 2 litres of stabilizer to wash the films 3 or 4 times changing the bath after each wash".
   2a. Where does 2 litres come from - the kit says to mix 1 litre?
   2b. There are 3 wash steps - does it want me to use stabiliser for those wash steps?
   2c. Why does it say to change the bath after each wash - that reads like asking for 6-8 litres of stabiliser for each roll of film!

Any help is much appreciated:)

Greetings all. Just picked the M605 up and was giving it a clean and noticed some felt type material around the bulb holder housing. Not sure whether this is heat resistant or light sealing material but is this asbestos likely?

I've recently acquired all necessary components to make ECN2 dev, bleach and fixer. I followed the official recipe and it looks like it's working fine! I checked the pH and it seems well adjusted. I use the inversion technique and a Patterson tank.

Unfortunately I see splotches on the negatives, even in areas where there's no exposure (mostly visible at the end and start of a roll). On the images they aren't really visible, except for quite dark scenes.

My first thought was that they weren't bleached or fixed correctly, but I rebleached and refixed them without much change.

My second idea was not thoroughly mixed developer, but I was very careful in the second batch and mixed the contents very diligently.

Does anyone have an idea? I'm puzzled.

Hello everybody, I’m doing that post to check if some one have some experience in doing prints with this type of look, really contrasted and specially with that amount of grain, texture.
I know that it related to the way the film eas exposed and developed, so if you have some clue/tips on both of that things (mean the negative and the print), I’m curious to read your comments.

Thanks in advance!

The first photos/prints is from Kit Young and the last one from Paulo Nozolino, both really amazing photographeras and printers!

Hey! I’m not very knowledgeable when it comes to darkroom printing, etc., but I saw this artist’s work in Arles and absolutely loved her painting-like photographs. She achieved this effect through a combination of painting directly onto her images and the texture of the paper.
I know she experimented with different Foma papers. I’m still a bit overwhelmed by all the different types of paper and what one should consider when choosing one. Does anyone know which Foma photo paper comes closest to watercolor paper in terms of texture, while still being suitable for painting over? Or would it actually be possible to use watercolor paper for this kind of work?
I can attach some examples of her photographs if that helps. I’d really appreciate any advice or recommendations from people who have experience with this!
Has anyone here experimented with painting on Foma darkroom paper or using watercolor paper for darkroom prints? What type of paper and painting medium worked best for you?

Here are some photos I took in my city and developed with caffenol using a Patterson tank that my design team bought together. I scanned them using a mirrorless Nikon. We are photographers and we’re trying to make something for darkroom development. Our survey was repeatedly removed by Reddit. I’m not sure if it was removed because surveys are not allowed or I broke a rule.

I’ll paste the link to my survey down in the comments. Pls help us out. :))

Ilford Hp5 in D76

VC7700 with Nikon 80mm Enlarging lens

RC Gloss Scanned with V800