u/greaseorbounce

The age-old 8x vs 10x question for the billionth time.

I am a western hunter in Colorado, trying to balance the demands of bow hunting AND longer range rifle.

My next purchase will be a set of NL Pures. Considering their price, I am really trying to make sure I get it right. I've fondled them both at a local dealer, including standing out front at dusk, and I'll be darned if I can make up my mind.

This will be a chest bino, and only bino I carry. I sometimes carry a spotting scope, but not a second set of binos. I very rarely glass off a tripod with binos.

For all these reasons I was really leaning towards the 8x, but our local (well trusted) shop has been really steering me towards the 10x stating that with swaro's quality, light transmission, and edge to edge clarity expanding the effective FOV the 10s will serve all of my needs while helping out in the longer open spaces we deal with out west. He said that in east coast woods the 8s are amazing but the feedback he gets here in CO is mostly from people wishing they had the 10s.

Anyone who has used both specifically out west, do you have a pick? Would I regret just going with the 10s due to reduced FOV and slightly shakier one-hand glassing when holding a bow?

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u/greaseorbounce — 3 days ago

Wider draw weight range from a flagship level compound?

Hey folks, I have a very weird request here. I'm looking for a new bow, and of course I will visit a local shop and get fitted and do some demos, but our local shops seem to each specialize in only a couple of brands, so I'm trying to figure out what specific bows I should try so I can plan my visits accordingly.

I have a very strange set of requests. I apologize for the long post, but I want enough detail to actually be useful.

I have essentially zero compound experience, but a lot of recurve experience. I have harvested several deer and many small game animals with a recurve, and used to shoot literally every day. It was my obsession, and I miss it dearly.

I was in a motorcycle crash that exploded my shoulder. Multiple surgeries later, I thought I would never be able to shoot a bow again. I was devastated. Sold the bow, and tried to forget.

Many years later, and lots of physical therapy, and I actually think I have built up enough support to be able to shoot again.

Hunting will be the primary goal, not competition, but I plan to only buy one bow, so all of my required practice will also be with that bow.

Most of the high end bows in the 33" range seem to have only about a ~10lb adjustment range. This is great normally, but in my case I really want to be able to turn the bow down a ways as I build back proper form and strength, and work really hard to be gentle on my shoulder to not cause injury.

Any recommendations of bows that I can eventually get up to the 65-70lb range for elk hunting, but be able to dial way back to like ~45-50lb in the very beginning while I get back in the swing here? I don't mind buying some extra parts (Like perhaps the matthews switchweight mod system, or even a different limb set if that is actually reasonable) but I really would like to not buy multiple bows here. Ideally keeping the price sub $2k for the bare bow.

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u/greaseorbounce — 6 days ago
▲ 7 r/Dell

Escape of Magic Smoke After Firmware Update?

In our office THIS WEEK we have had two separate 7780s let the magic smoke out of the charging circuit in rather spectacular fashion, both when sitting idle plugged in.

Wondering if coincidental correlation to most recent firmware update, or if perhaps there is something funny going on. Lightning doesn't usually strike twice in one week to two different people in two different environments.

Anyone else witness any recent funny business?

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u/greaseorbounce — 7 days ago

Alright folks, I'm almost embarrassed to admit this: two decades of reloading and competitively shooting, and I've always annealed with a torch. I don't mean a torch based automatic annealing machine, I mean a torch. In my hand. With brass in my other gloved hand. I sometimes upgrade this to a very high tech socket in a drill to hold the brass.

I am ready to improve my annealing life a little bit here, and I'm struggling with justifying costs of the fancy AMP compared to just grabbing an ugly annealer.

I know the AMP is better. Zero question there, it's more "perfect" in every way. Does it matter though? AMP is $1800 US now, and that's for fully manual operation. To match the automation level of the Ugly Annealer, you also have to buy the AMP Mate for an additional $470. I also need a couple pilots. So that's $2300. An Ugly is $300......

To be clear I'm not suggesting that this is overpriced, the folks at AMP are amazing, and have put together an incredible product, and for that level of technical complexity the price is necessary to run a business. I am just struggling with whether it will make my shooting life $2000 better.

That extra $2000 could buy another barrel and enough components to feed it over 500 rounds of practice. Would an AMP improve my groups more than 500 rounds of practice for the nut behind the trigger? (that's rhetorical, there's no fixing this nut)

So I want to start the conversation here.

  • If you have an AMP, would you buy it again?
  • If you needed a second annealer, would it be a second AMP?
  • If you have an automated flame annealer, do you wish it was an AMP when you use it?
  • If you swapped from flame to amp, did you see a statistically significant improvement in groups or brass life? (EC did a video on this comparison a while back, and it was marginal, but would love other perspectives as well)
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u/greaseorbounce — 23 days ago