6.5 Creedmore Question.
Hornady page advices C-375 for 6.5CM
Scouting on forums (driven by A.I) pointed the D-400
Please help determine the correct bushing to buy
Thank you.
Howdy all
I'm trying to finish up some .32 ACP loads using bullets dropped from a Lyman 311252. My OAL is set at .965 (.975 is the OAL in the manual), as that's what seems to pass the plunk test in my CZ70. I'm using brand new Starline .32 ACP brass.
Adjusting the Factory Crimp die, I basically run out of adjustment. By the time the adjusting screw touches the round, it's about 97% bottomed out - I can't put any adjustment into it, which means no crimp.
I've manually placed a round into the die without the shell plate, and it looks like there's a couple turns worth that way - so it would appear the die body is too long to work with the shell plate (Lee #7).
Has anyone else experienced this? It would appear the only option would be to turn down the end of the die body on the lathe to shorten it?
(Yes, I know I don't NEED the FCD, I was just hoping for a quick solve. I sent a note to Lee about it as well)
thanks!
Trimmed to 0.845 i would be loading 145gr & 200gr SWC's if my molds would arrive
Been working on some subs for my 762x39. First go around didn’t cycle. Tried Lyman book data on 150s and RL7.
Switched to H110 switched to a 220 gr took out the heavy spring I forgot I put in that and put in a lighter buffer. 16” upper. Lubed like crazy hoping these will make the difference. This is the first I’ve tried doing subs with this caliber.The Range Craft and gun will tell the tails soon!
Hi fellow reloaders
New day New pain with my 8x22 Nambu.
I went to range yesterday, and finaly after a long journey, I managed to make loads that shoot fine, cycle and dont lead the barrel.
New problem : Even with a good crimp, not a heavy one, but genuine crimp non the less, I have bullet set back while racking the slide forward, the bullets instead of climbing the feeding ramp just stucks on it, and with the force of the slide, pushes the bullet inside the Shell. Is it a problem of cartridge overall length? Because I am under the original cartridge length. Not enough crimp? Despite the one I made? Anything else? But what?
À dude at the range told it might be because of my flat head bullets. Of course it doesn’t help, but I mean, several people use flat head 45 acp or 9mm and dont have such an issue.
So I guess I need help 😅
Just got myself some 35gr pills, that I want to run through a Howa 1500 SA. I can't find much on COL and jump to the lands. Quite skeptical about going too far into the case because I can hear the powder crunch (AR2206H) to make the bullet seat properly. Obviously, the 1:8 twist rate is too fast for them. Just curious to try them, with different powder amounts.
If anyone has any experience with these shorties, I'd love to hear your thoughts. TIA
https://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/comments/1izs1pa/35gr_hornady_vmax_in_223/
I haven't reloaded in probably a year so had rounds just sitting in an ammo crate, when I opened them up today to start again they had this green waxy substance. Feels like melted crayon wax, any ideas?
I'm reloading 9mm for use in USPSA (nothing special, I suck lol). I have a Echelon 4.5F and a p320 X5 Legion that I'm shooting. I reloaded my first batch and I'm low on power factor (at 118-120). Have any of you ran this bullet / powder?
Titegroup 3.5gr
X-treme 135gr HP / 1.140 COAL
Cci 500 primer
Loading with 1 brand brass for now (belom or blazer)
I also feel like I'm having accuracy issues with it on the Echelon, I'm assuming it's the low FPS (Garmin chrono).
OK - so I am finally all out of Blue Dot. That has been my go to powder pretty much as long as I've been reloading pistol rounds. Mostly 357sig and 10mm. I'm not going to lie that I like it for the flash but I will also say it performs well for me. Good accuracy and good speeds.
The only other powders I've really used are Power Pistol and Titegroup. Both work just fine. No real complaints although Titegroup seems to make my pistols really dirty? But I haven't done any real side by side comparisons.
So what would be the next best powder for something flashy for pistol calibers?
Long time rifle reloader, first time handgun reloader. I am looking to make some sort of super reduced power 10mm load for grouse and snowshoe hare.
I know it's a silly and less than ideal pursuit, but I always have a 10mm on me and there are many days when it's not practical to carry a 22lr as well. Underwood 200 grain hardcast doesn't damage a lot of meat but I'm bad about putting in earpro and rawdogging a half dozen of those loads after finding a covey of ptarmigan is starting to take a toll on my dumb ears.
It only has to be better than a slingshot, doesn't have to cycle the slide, and I'm open to whatever weird projectile would work best. I'd just carry those loads in a separate magazine.
Does anyone have any ideas for a starting point here?
I just finished binge-watching Johnny’s Reloading Bench on YouTube where he worked up a 9mm +P load, and he brought up Unique. Honestly, it surprised me. I’ve always viewed Unique as a relatively fast-burning, classic powder for standard target plinking, and never really considered it a top contender for pushing serious velocity in a small case.
Curiosity got the best of me, so I plugged some numbers into GRT and QuickLOAD. To my surprise, both simulators show that hitting my target goal of 1200 FPS with a 124gr projectile is completely doable while safely staying under the 38,500 PSI max pressure limit for +P.
Obviously, case capacity is going to be tight, and it’ll probably be a dirty burner, but the math checks out. Has anyone actually run this specific work-up in the real world? How closely did your real-world chronograph numbers match the GRT/QuickLOAD predictions? I will say that I am very interested in working up this load since it can fill up a case very nicely without worrying about a double charge.
Lehigh controlled chaos 32 gr. I know the picture only says 1 shot fired, I forgot to take more photos unfortunately.
All shot out of a Five-seveN pistol.
6.6 gr of Accurate no 5 gave me between 2190 to 2220. No obvious pressure signs. Small rifle primers from CCI. Using once fired AAC brass. Hornady dies. Hornady unique lube, no real tumbling on these.
It was very reliable, but I turned it down to 6.5 which is yielding about 2170 or so.
How does this compare to Hornady Custom Grade sitting die?
Will this one work for precision loads?
Thank you for your help!
So i plan on reloading some 38 special and just wanted peoples opinions on the load I chose. I am basing this off of the Lee book that came with my 38 dies. I found 125gr plated hollow points and 158gr plated round nose (Both Berry’s if that matters). I plan on using either one of those rounds. Would prefer the 125gr but need to wait till they are back in stock if I wanted to order those. I would use the .5 lee scoop with either V-3N37 or V-N350 powder. Has anyone had experience with that powder? Any need to know information? This is all planned for the future when I do eventually get around 1000 38 cases. But I want to have a solid plan on what to buy so when the time comes all i need to worry about is getting it rather than figuring what to get. Also I figure some would appreciate the second pic so I figured I’d add it in.
I know the chambers are cut loose on Enfield rifles but why is it expanding unevenly?
S&W 32 safety hammerless
1st model
3 inch barrel
5 shot
"NEW DEPARTURE"
got this one out to make sure it worked and test some new loads. I believe this gun is a first model. produced between 1888-1902. also known as "the new departure". the grip safety works as intended and rounds fired and ejected smoothly and correctly.
loads consisted of 78 gn Missouri cast bullet. new starline brass, federal 100 primer. and a small dose of bullseye powder.
these loads are on the extreme low of the power scale and more of a novelty these days. point of impact was good and the double action trigger was surprisingly good. 10 yard steel plates were quite easy. the fires casings ejected smoothly and completely using the automatic ejecting top break action. the latch on this top break differs from other in collection in that you push the button down to open compared to the later models that you lift up on the latch to open like a schofield style normally with your thumb. the frame and grip on this 5 shot revolver is very small and has a great pocket feel. the finish on this gun is very good for its age and most of the imperfections in the photos are oil smears
of you ever get a chance to give one a try, don't hesitate to experience one of the finest and innovative pocket pistols of its day..
