Hey all - I’m swapping in. k tech spring on the rear shock. I had a heck of a time getting the dogbone linkage bolt loose - it took a lot of time with a 1/2 impact driver. I finally got it off but the nut is pretty beat up. It looks to be a special locknut with metal flanges. Has anyone ever swapped in a conventional lock nut or a regular nut/lockwasher/blue thread locker?
Thanks!
That they'd like to part with? I have a K tech spring to install, but I'd like to keep my bike rideable in the event it's not as smooth sailing as I hope it is.
Thanks!
Howdy Folks - I'm breaking in a new 300 Rally and I'm thinking of getting her up on some forest service roads this weekend. I'm in South King County, and it looks like FS-70 up and over towards Cliffdell might be a really mellow route to get some miles on. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions or words of wisdom.
Has anyone ordered the service manual from Helm? Their website states that it’s a print on demand item and it may be 5 days to print prior to shipping. I emailed them about 9 days after my order and their support people responded print on demand is a 4-6 week job. I responded to them with a screen shot from their site, but I’ve not received another reply. WTF?
Howdy all
I'm trying to finish up some .32 ACP loads using bullets dropped from a Lyman 311252. My OAL is set at .965 (.975 is the OAL in the manual), as that's what seems to pass the plunk test in my CZ70. I'm using brand new Starline .32 ACP brass.
Adjusting the Factory Crimp die, I basically run out of adjustment. By the time the adjusting screw touches the round, it's about 97% bottomed out - I can't put any adjustment into it, which means no crimp.
I've manually placed a round into the die without the shell plate, and it looks like there's a couple turns worth that way - so it would appear the die body is too long to work with the shell plate (Lee #7).
Has anyone else experienced this? It would appear the only option would be to turn down the end of the die body on the lathe to shorten it?
(Yes, I know I don't NEED the FCD, I was just hoping for a quick solve. I sent a note to Lee about it as well)
thanks!
I got a wild hair this afternoon after seeing a video on the Inline Fab case ejector for the Rock Chucker. I thought to myself, I can fab one of those up with bits I have laying around the shop.
I had just about everything on hand except the 1/2" wide steel for the ejector - picked that up at the local hardware store for under $3 (and I had a $5 rewards card, so free!)
Parts List:
.075 Aluminum plate - for the base plate and the hold-down piece for the ejector
.045 Steel plate for the chute
.025" stainless steel for the ejector
8-32 Bolts, washers, & nuts
Wire coat hanger for the bin hanger
Small plastic bin (my wife brought home 6 of them from work and I quickly appropriated them for the shop)
Extra bolts from the RCBS mounting plate to hang the bin from
Only took about an hour or so (maybe longer if you consider the run to the hardware store)
It works really well. I may eventually pick up a piece of spring steel for the ejector - I'll have to see how the current one "un springs" over time and if just bending it back until it works, well, works well enough. If I were to make it again I'd probably use steel for the base as well.
Picked it up through AIM Surplus. It's a 72' edition. Good shape, normal wear for the vintage. I think I got most of the cosmoline cleaned out (Commentator: he, in fact, did not have all the cosmoline out of it.) Looking forward to loading up some reloads for it.
It's only my second with a decocker. Not seeing a lot of wear and it seems to drop it as it should. Need to source a few more OEM mags.
Howdy all
I picked up an H&R 32 S&W off of GB the other day as my first C&R purchase. I've done a ton of reading and researching, but I have a few questions.
First off, it's DA only and has the 1887 patent stamp on the top of the barrel, so clearly an earlier BP model. However, there's an odd SN stamp. On the back of the grip, it's stamped 6019 - however, under the top plate it's stamped 6895, and the cylinder and extractor both have 895 stamped on them, so I'm guessing that's the true SN? Anyone have the collectors book that could look that up?
Secondly, the piece right in front of the trigger guard below the the pivot screw - it's what engages the auto extractor. I've not been able to find a diagram or a video of this exact model, but I'm guessing there's supposed to be a screw behind that that made it's way out when I disassembled it - I can move it forward manually when I break it open and the extractor works, but if I don't, it does not - can anyone confirm there's supposed to be a spring? I tried appropriating a section of a ballpoint pen, and while it fits on the rod that slides into the frame, the frame channel is too narrow so I need to try and find one that's even smaller. (if anyone happens to have a parts H*R....)
thanks!