I haven’t done archery for a few years and probably lost any semblance of power I had. I have a compound bow (for women) and I am a bit afraid to do an empty shot. Can you recommend me some exercises or videos with correct ones?
I’m not aiming for Olympic or elite levels — just wondering for average amateur archers like most of us: Has anyone stuck with a shooting glove long-term and still achieved similar scores to what you could get with a good finger tab?
I shot three bullseyes in a row at 20 yards on 40 cm targets with bullseyes 2 inches wide. It's a tack driver!
Then I adjusted the sight down to my 50 yard pin, shot 8 arrows, walked to the target and found all of them grouped about 7 inches left. They were all grouped to the far left of the bullseye.
This has been going on for some time now. Why is this happening? Yes, I know that my left hand sometimes twists outwards on release, and I've seen in real time how radically this affects the arrow trajectory. However, even opening my hand and using the proper push-away release doesn't seem to fix the problem – and not every arrow I shoot I actually twist left on release. But every one of my arrows hits left.
I think it has something to do with the relationship between my arrow rest and my sight. When I look behind my bow, my single-pin adjustable sight is not even close to being lined up vertically with my drop-away arrow rest. It's sitting very far to the left of the rest. Is this normal? How do I stop this from changing my windage adjustment every time I change my elevation?
Im tall (6'7", with 82.5 wingspan) and want to get into archery so when i came across a deal on a 27in kinetic sovren riser i jumped on it (hooray). I also picked up some used limbs - long galaxy bronze star 30lb. Id like to start with barebow target shooting.
I got a 72in string in the mail today and strung the bow, but i immediately learned i have two issues:
If you made it this far, thank you! I appreciate the help
Hi everyone,
I recently purchased an ILF recurve bow from an online seller and when I assembled it I noticed a significant amount of play in both limbs after they are seated in the riser. The limbs do click into place, but there is a lot of movement — much more than what I have seen in videos of other ILF bows being assembled.
I have two concerns:
Safety — I am worried that this amount of play could be dangerous to shoot. Under draw and release, the tension on the limbs changes dynamically, and I am concerned that a limb could shift or fail unexpectedly. A local professional archery shop assessed the bow in person and told me it was not safe to use.
Accuracy — Even if it is safe, I suspect the bow would be very inaccurate. If the limbs are not seated firmly and consistently, the energy transfer on each shot would vary, resulting in poor arrow grouping.
I have not strung the bow because of the safety concern. Here is the bow I purchased:
I have these things showing the issue:
Photo showing the gap between the limb and riser:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/R5jRz48eNpUvENLZ9
Video showing the play on the bow I received (please watch with sound on for explanation):
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kQTVCgG33ssTntUFA
I would really appreciate the opinion of experienced ILF archers. Is this level of play within normal tolerance? Is it safe to shoot? Would it affect accuracy?
Thank you in advance!
I noticed this space between the riser and the limb pockets on my new Hoyt bow. Anyone else that own an rx10 seeing the same? My previous Hoyts were flush when the limb bolts were maxed out.
Every week, my small rubber stamp factory in Minnesota sends hundreds of pounds of clean, high-quality natural rubber to the landfill. It kills me. This is the stuff trimmed off the edges of our stamps. It's soft, natural red rubber, no dirt, no contamination.
I've posted before and gotten tons of great suggestions. I've reached out to every single one. Mulch recyclers, playground surfacing, crafters, art teachers, makerspaces, you name it. Nobody wants it. Most would rather grind up dirty old tires than take clean rubber from a stamp shop. I can't make it make sense.
It's free. You just pay shipping, which works out to about $1/lb. I'll ship as much as you want. Use it for crafts, gaskets, packing material, garden mulch, art projects, whatever. I just want it to go somewhere besides a landfill.
If this resonates with you, please crosspost it to any subreddit you think might want this. Crafters, gardeners, makers, sustainability, hobbies, anything. That's the real ask.
Email nic@unitystampco.com or DM me.
Found these two vintage ben pearson bows for $55 at a garage sale. I know absolutely nothing about them, but I think they're gorgeous for wall hangers and to maybe try to see if I can still use them
Im in the market for a new target. I recently got a Mathews arc 30 and I shoot easton 5mm fmj’s. I currently have a Hurricane 425 bag target and my arrows are going to deep to the point where the fletching on 2 of my arrows came off. I also had a cheaper foam target before but I didn’t like how it left a residue on my arrows when I shot it. Open to hear all recommendations. Willing to spend a little for a quality target.
Looking for any info on this bow, owner didn’t state model or anything..
Possibly purchasing this weekend.
Hi everyone,
Long post incoming - some of you may have seen a post I made a few weeks ago - well, I failed my assessment at my club today to become an independent archer. Not the end of the world as can keep trying (and have only been shooting 6 weeks), but I'm an over thinker and am beating myself up over it and want to try and rationalise.
Ultimately my aim was consistently and dramatically to the right of the target. I eventually got one set of arrows in the target at 18m by aiming so far off the target that I couldn't put a marker on the board. My grouping was okay, and pretty consistent (initially I was low and right, adjusted my aim point and was at the right height but still to the right) but was consistently drifting.
I spoke to the coach afterwards who suggested that I'm not 'quasimodoing' correctly - his term for hunching slightly forward during set or setup. I haven't previously done this and am struggling to understand exactly what is expected and how it affects my shot (he said it helped alignment but I generally felt well aligned) - but he said that generally the rest of my shot cycle was pretty good.
I talked to him about my anchor point which isn't quite the usual one - I anchor my forefinger knuckle against my cheekbone, and thumb knuckle against my jaw bone which works REALLY well for consistency for me and is easy to find, but brought it up to him because I was worried it could be some pulling effect, or perhaps it's cause I'm cross dominant and squinting?
He said I could try the tooth anchor point but I don't know exactly how to change it and apart from the unorthodoxy of it, he was happy with my follow through after release. At home, I do a lot of close range shooting to work on form and I felt very happy with my groupings but appreciate that drift and bad form can be hidden by distance.
I use a different bow at home to the club bow they make us use which is both lower poundage and slightly longer (28lb Vs 18lb and 68" Vs 70"). I definitely feel like the bow is too light for me at the distance (I feel I shoot a bit low when I'm point on with the 18lb at 18m) and something feels off Vs my draw at home but again I might just be overthinking it.
Obviously I want to blame the bow (perhaps the plungers set too strong!) but the club sets them up and know a ton more about it than me so it probably isn't that.
I focus hard on string alignment and release and my bow grip has improved a lot but I do feel like I grip the club bow more than my own because it's so light that I don't get the same pressure during my expansion - perhaps because it's 70" instead of 68"?
I'm guess im looking for advice and comfort in equal measure, as I felt like I'd made big strides at home on these things (have attached a quick video which shows both my aiming point at the end and the 3 shot grouping) - having watched the video back I have noticed that the bow doesn't appear to be straight which might have a small impact but also noticed when I drop my shoulders I seem to lean back - is it as simple as that?
I appreciate any kind or informative words, thanks in advance!
Korean Traditional Archery shoots 5 arrows a session. If you maanage to hit all 5/5, it's called 몰기(molghi)
Thoughts on the mount & beard/spur size? This is my first bird
Hi!
I'm shooting barebow 40 m. This is an example of my last 36 arrows.
On 20 m and 30 m arrows go to the right too. And in 20 they go much more to the right, I associate it with string walking since at 20 m it's 1,4 inches down from knocking point (does it make sense?)
My questions are:
how to tell if I'm doing something wrong with the shooting that makes arrows go right or if I would benefit from a different tunning. (and what that tunning could be? Center shot? button pressure?)
Thanks!