u/grumbot69

I’m new to the LS Swap world so I thought I would reach out for some expert advice from those that have lived in the world for a bit.

I’m planning to LS swap a recently acquired G-Body wagon. I was considering the Summit 5.3 long block then I realized that I could go with the ATK HP109 Chevy LQ4 6.0
for about an additional $1,200 which seems like a no brainer to me. However I’m wondering if anyone out there has used the ATK HP109 Chevy LQ4 6.0L Base Engine 505HP for a swap. If so, how does it perform and how does it sound? Additionally, can anyone offer any advice on swapping an 6.0 into a G-body.

EDIT:

Problem solved. Turns out the issue was due the extremely poor wiring of the connections on the mode selector switch which was allowing the wires to touch. This was sending the system into a constant reset mode.

I’m new to the Dakota world. I have recently purchased an 1983 G-body that has a Dakota Digital VHX system. Recently when I went start the car all gauges would continuously seep so I turned off the key, waited a few seconds and then turned it back on and everything was fine. Fast forward a couple of weeks I when to start the car yesterday I have the same thing but I can’t get it to stop. I have verified that the ground is good.
This issue is not mentioned in the troubleshooting guide in the manual or on the website.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

As the title states I’m having a strange cooling issue. I have a Dart SPH block 350 SBC design in my 1969 Corvette that is about a year and half old. I found my water pump leaking so I replaced it with the same NAPA Part #: TFW 43106P pump that had cooled the engine perfectly for about year and half. My Sniper Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) was mounted in the passenger side head all this time between cylinders 6 & 8 since the engine was new about a year and a half ago. After replacing the pump the CTS started reading 245 degrees and higher. I installed a test water temp gauge in the manifold and confirmed that the water temperature was actually 180. Therefore, I assumed (yes I know) that the new NAPA pump was bad. So I replaced it with an Edelbrock 88100 pump and high flow thermostat. No change. Coolant temp is around 182-187 cruising surface streets and highway at normal speeds. The car still has a heater core and does not have a flow valve so it’s a natural bypass. I have done everything I can think of or have found online to alleviate this issue. I drilled two 1/8” holes in the thermostat flange and clocked them at 3 & 9 o’clock. Jacked up the front end. Jacked up the passenger side tire to raise the expansion tank. Tested the cap and did a coolant system leak down test. Both passed wonderfully. Purchased a No-Spill funnel. Tired that a couple of times. I have moved the Sniper CTS to the manifold thinking that steam was getting trapped around the sensor. I can check the head with a high quality IR temp gun and sometimes it will read the same as the drivers side in the low 200’s and then other times I get crazy high temps.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.