Temu 4.8 is moving along…
Before the turbo, It ran on 30-40lb injectors. Think I’m gonna need 60-80 now. Im still trying to do things as cheaply as possible. Current setup is $700-$800 total, including Temu turbo, intercooler, wastegate, bov, etc.
Before the turbo, It ran on 30-40lb injectors. Think I’m gonna need 60-80 now. Im still trying to do things as cheaply as possible. Current setup is $700-$800 total, including Temu turbo, intercooler, wastegate, bov, etc.
This is my first time planning an engine build and I really try to do as much research myself as I can before resorting to asking questions.
Overall question & TLDR: can I run my 5.3 L33 Aluminum Block (Flat top pistons) // Milled .030 243 Heads, 225/229 Cam // 7.40 pushrods with either 0.051 or 0.040 compressed thickness head gasket or will I run into clearance issues? What kind of new clearances do i need to be aware of or should i order an adjustable push rod and get to measuring?
Previous running build was a stock 5.3 LM7 Iron with the same head, cam and push rod combination and a 0.040 headgasket. Compression calculator shows 9.71.1 (assuming deck clearance is .006 which was the reference i came across the most often)
Today I picked up an L33 with flat top pistons and based on the compression calculator if i moved over my 243 heads (milled 0.30) I should be between 10.73.1 (with .040 headgasket) and 10.45.1 (with 0.51 headgasket.
I run the Michigan Motor sports Stage 2 drift cam package so that's where I get my cam info and pushrod sizing from.
Especially if you’re using a BMW cooling system!
Good morning. We have a 2004 Silverado 2500 with a 5.3 in it. Hoping to get some diagnostic help from an LS guru.
The truck was driving and was intermittently blowing black smoke until it just died. Got to the farm today to start looking at it. Did the plugs and wires, the plugs on the right are out of the D/S bank (all 4 looked like that) and the ones on the left are out of the P/S bank (all 4 looked like that)
The truck cranks no issue. We have fuel at the rail, all cylinders have spark with no issues on the new plugs. However when we crank it, it just falls on its face and keeps cranking
Can anyone point me in a direction here? Thanks
Moving forward, any post or comment that includes an insult directed toward another user is getting deleted.
You guys all know what it's like to find an old LS1Tech forum thread that looks useful on the surface but then quickly devolves into several pages of moronic internet flame war nonsense. This sub returns search results near the top of Google search results and will continue to do so in the future, and it's our responsibility to make sure that we're passing along our knowledge to future gearheads in a way that's helpful and not littered with juvenile flame posts.
So, please, keep the posts on topic. Argue and debate with each other on the content of the post without resorting to pointless insults and digs.
Why won’t you address the issue this sub clearly has? You saw the results of the poll. We don’t need someone that is rude and unpleasant to everyone all the time. If action won’t be taken a new LS subreddit should be created.
Picked up a 2000 Tacoma 2WD… was being made a drift truck but I’m gonna make it a daily/sleeper maybe? Person I got it from made it pretty far… got held up at the exhaust. Is a 5.3 mounted to an AR5 five speed. Very minimal room on the driver side. Any suggestions? Will put photos up tomorrow.
Not a swap but I figured it might be the community with the most knowledge. Replacing an oil pan on a 05 corvette 120k miles with perfectly good oil pressure. Should I replace the oil pickup tube o ring while I’m in there? Lots of vette forums stating the ring gets pinched on install has me nervous, but also heard of o rings failing. Anybody have tips or good reasons to leave the o rings be?
Ban this man and his bad info and poor attitude
Looking for the best daily driver cam for an LS1 out of a c5 corvette with a 6 speed. I have a cold air intake and a cat back and intend to keep it otherwise stock. I put about 200 miles a week on this car sometimes in stop and go traffic. Looking for something with an increase in power in the low and mid range where I am most of the time that will also be very reliable long term and minimally impact my mpg. From my research, I want to keep my overlap to 0 or less and my LSA in the 112-114 range. Also want to keep a duration split of 4+ due to the exhaust restriction from the stock exhaust manifold and cats. I intend on getting a mail in tune since a cammed ls is nothing special. Therefore I want something common that the tuners has files to go off of. Does anyone have any recommendations? Are there any other popular cams I’m missing that fit my goals from places like comp, cam motion, summit, etc? Also is my thinking on the right track?
These are the ones I’ve been looking at so far with some of my thoughts:
GMPP Hot Cam 219/228 112 (most reliable)
BTR Stage 1 217/230 113 (lift seems high)
TSP 224/228 112 or 114 (overlap is above 0 for the 112, would lose low end with 114)
Hello, I am in need of some guidance.
I have a 2000 LQ4 long crank, and I'm LS swapping an 1982 Pontiac Grand Prix that had a built 350 with a T5 (NWC). This is my first project car/fun car. I'm nearing the end, but finding a flywheel has cost me lots of money and time.
Picture attached: I have a Sachs nfw1050, and I have a PERFECTION CLUTCH 502711
Now both of these flywheels have a bolt pattern that is 12 5/8" across from eye to eye. My SBC pressure plate is roughly 11 5/8", so it simply does not fit. They are both for short crank engines I believe.
After hours of digging, I find this: Mcleod Racing #460537. A LS flywheel with two patterns drilled. I want to call and confirm that the smaller pattern is for the SBC pressure plate, it is Friday night right now and I'll have to wait until Monday.
Now the 460537 listed on Summit Racing has the wrong photo, I'll link the one I'm talking about: https://www.mcleodracing.com/steel-flywheel-460537/p20
You can see in the picture that it has a second smaller bolt pattern drilled out. And specifically says 99-00 6.0 (long crank).
Please let me know your thoughts.
Hopefully able to keep up with some of the heavy hitters lol or at least sound fast
i've been trying to get my hands on a 5th gen camaro for lord knows how long, just been having trouble getting approved on the loan, if i can't get the camaro, then my 2nd best option was the F-bird, but as i've been made aware, the stock engines don't make very good power and arent easy to work on or mod, so i was considering just LS swapping it, i've done an engine swap before and on a GM product, but it was a 60s chevy chassis and a 60s big block chevy, i've never done anything with even semi modern ECUs and stuff, and i wanted to know if it'd be possible, if there's kits for this stuff and if it'd even be possible, and if it is, how reliable would the car be afterwards?
Junkyard pull. Aluminum 6.0. Looking for opinions on my options moving forward.
Lq4 block
Hot tanked
0.010 over bore and honed
Decked
New cam bearings installed (no pics)
Long time member, first time poster, I’m currently in the process of building and swapping a 6.0 LQ4 motor into my c10, I’ve got .660 springs, btr stage 2 turbo cam, 317 heads, studded block, 67 mm turbo, LS7 rollers, BTR rocker arms just to match with the other btr parts, I’ve relied heavily on other forums and AI to help get this build up and running but have ran into a road block, along with all the parts I’ve ordered, I have a set of 7.400 pushrods and while trying to put rocker arms on today I noticed the pushrods are wayyy too long and causing the arms to float and not fit flush on the head, essentially I’m looking for advice from someone who has built a similar motor as far as what kind of rods they ran, ANY ADVICE ON THE SUBJECT IS WELCOME. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Good afternoon gents I am working on a ls2 some caveman damaged the crank when they attempted to replace the seal, what are my options I can't seem to find a sleeve to fit the rear crank is my only option to pull the crank out and have it machined?
Bought a TBSS intake off FB and didnt realize the crossover is missing. Any suggestions where to find it’s replacement? No luck so far
So i’m looking to change a r12 system into a r134a system and i’m trying to see what i should get in terms on new system and where are good reliable parts to be able to do a proper conversion. Any thing will help amount of oil, and possible amount of refrigerant.