I picked this up today off marketplace. 5.7 LT1 swapped 1989 c4, cammed and Holley (quad barrel carb?) converted, full manual valve body with auto gauge shift timing light
Fired up on starter fluid but definitely sat long enough that I’m going to rebuild the carb.
Do you think we keep it pink or change it up? I have a feeling it might grow on me.
All thoughts and opinions welcome.
I purchased a 2000 Isuzu trooper with a blown transmission for $800 in sound running condition and great shape cosmetically besides some paint peeling on the plastic trim.
Rebuilt the transmission.
It’s been 8000 miles of driving since.
Oil history.
Got it- swapped to valvoline restore and protect, Bosch filter.
The oil that came out was an absolute disco party (he ran conventional with fram filters and it looked to be way overdue). I thought it was game over but decided to just run it and hope for the best.
Ran 4k miles
Changed oil for more r&p. Wix xp filter.
The oil that came out was SPOTLESS. Cut open filter and 0 signs of metallic build up.
I thought, woah! Must’ve just not been changed for a while or a fluke..
Jump to present day. Running, driving fine. Just did a 340 mile round trip at 2.2k-3k rpm highway driving.
I check the oil and there’s some minor glitter on the dipstick.
Absolutely 0 bottom or top end noise. Runs extremely well overall.
Any thoughts?
Going to change oil tomorrow for some regular full synthetic to see how glittery it is, also so I can send for oil analysis in a thousand miles.
Hey everyone,
Tearing into my very first 4R100 bench build. The truck is a 1999 4x4 F-250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 gas engine. The main job for this truck will be towing a 6,500-lb wakeboard boat/trailer combo short distances to the lake, including navigating some steep hills and concrete boat ramps.
I just picked up a very clean, previously remanufactured core with immaculate fluid to use as my foundation.
Here is my planned parts list to beef it up:
Converter: TTC Billet Front Cover, Triple-Disc, Low-Stall (6-stud heavy-duty pattern for the V10/Diesel flexplate).
Clutches: Raybestos GPZ Deluxe Master Overhaul Kit.
Hydraulics: Updated accumulator valves, fresh separator plate, and a Sonnax Line Pressure Booster.
Cooling: Tru-Cool 40k stacked-plate auxiliary cooler.
Since this is my first time inside a 4R100 case, I want to make sure I don't miss the small stuff.
What are the critical assembly pitfalls, end-play clearances, air-checking tricks, or "while you're in there" updates I should watch out for during the teardown and stack-up?
Appreciate any advice or veteran tips!
Strange post here, but I’ll give some backstory.
There’s a world of Isuzu/honda/acura SUV’s from the 90’s through 2002 that came equipped with an undersized 4l30e GM transmission. These transmissions in stock form tend to die due to lack of maintenance, overheating, excessive load(from pushing a 4000lb brick).
A 4l30e genius/modder Garrett Adams was taking on the impossible task of modding a Toyota a760e (or H) transmission to drop into these Isuzu SUV’s with no additional hard mods needed. Unfortunately his website is no longer up and I’m not sure where/how the project closed and have not had luck getting in contact .
One of his final posts mentioned that he had gotten it working flawlessly, so it is possible.
I’m quite a brave soul and want to continue this project where it left off.
To me, it looks like he measured, cut, and welded the 4l30e bellhousing onto the 6 speed, and also mated the 4l30e 4wd tail housing to it.
Assuming he used a standalone controller here. (Any recommendations?)
Also assuming he used the torque converter from the a760, how would you go about modding the pilot hole and flexplate? (I was thinking about just machining the pilot down to fit the factory hole)
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
Car was parked under pine tree by previous owner.
Any thoughts? Paint underneath is metallic green and fully intact. Looks great when wet.
Was thinking about cleaning up the edges and doing 800 grit and some 2k clear.
When do you guys personally do a break-in filter and fluid change on a new rebuild?
I shoot for 500 miles as by then the clutches have bedded into new steels in my experience. Curious to hear your thoughts on what timing best caters to future longevity.
Hoping to get this mounted as a matching spare for my vehicle, but noticed this chewed up sealing surface.
2019 date code.
Hi guys, chasing down an electrical issue in a 4l30e
Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Electrical.
Going to drop pan and swap back to OEM EPC solenoid and verify harness
Unfortunately I believe I have a cross leak going on due to the extreme pressures. (In neutral wheels move forwards very slightly)
Any advice?
Going to try to fix the EPC issue before working on the cross leak.
Installed an upgraded spring into a throttle signal accumulator piston. Improperly seated circlip…
Spring came out and ate up the overdrive planet/clutch housing.
Reminder to double check your work..