r/transmissionbuilding

I am a fairly experienced mechanic and feel comfortable with major component replacements (engine, transmission, etc) and engine repairs. I replaced the 4L60E in my truck when I got it, and have the old one laying around. I want to rebuild it so it's ready to go when the questionable (but working) unit I installed blows up, but have never done this before and am worried I'm biting off more than I can chew. I want replace everything I can, as I don't want anything to fail prematurely. I can deal with some headache/confusion with rebuilding the unit, but I really want to avoid putting it back in the truck and having it fail immediately. Should I be doing this or should I just look for a good specialist? I've always been the type of person to figure stuff out for myself, but the idea of rebuilding an automatic transmission just seems so daunting.

I also plan on replacing/upgrading the following parts on top of a master rebuild kit:

• Torque converter
• Front pump
• Filter
• Upgraded sun shell
• Upgraded 3-4 clutch pack
• All new solenoids (EPC, shift solenoids, TCC)
• Upgraded band
• Bushing kit
• Radiator and cooler lines
• New/good quality rebuilt valve body

Car is a 2014 Nissan Pulsar

Trans is the infamous CVT

Issue: Trans seems to be slipping on hard acceleration, engine ends up surging against the rev limiter. I havent seen any transmission error codes - yet...

Question: Is this trans toast? Or can i potentially sort this out with a remanufactured valve body?

I have CVTz50 installed on my phone, what parameters should i be looking at to determine if its an internal oil pressure fluctuation as opposed to a dead drive belt?

I have the 2015 with the 6.4 hemi. I was going 80 down interstate and about 1 mile from the exit check engine light came on. It never went into limp mode or anything. I went and shifted it manually and nothing felt wrong with shifting from 6 down to 1 and 1 to 6. I looked into some googling and they said the trans fluid might be it so I looked and it does need some but I am afraid it’s not the only thing. Can anyone give some advice what to look for while I have it had home before I bring it into a shop.

I got a 2008 ford focus duratec 2.0L with the 4 speed auto. After servicing the transmission it spat out fluid, so replaced a seal. Now when I try to go in 3rd gear, its like it refuses to go in, revs just go up and eventually clunks into 3rd, popping up with 'transmission malfunction'. Is it cooked?

Hello everyone

I am having trouble with a ticking noise thats originating close to or right at the governor of my th350. it seems to be ticking once for every half turn of the drive shaft. its thus also not related to the selected gear. to me it makes sense to connect the noise to the rotating weights, but that should probably stop once a sufficient rpm is reached, which it does not.

I tried finding someone whos had the same issue but havent found any posts online.

Has anyone had a similar issue?

BTW i am new to american cars and their transmissions, it might be a an obvious thing i am not catching here.

I held off posting here because I wanted to exhaust every option first.

1996 NA Miata, Automatic

• ~52,000 miles (second owner)
• Austin, TX

Long story short, my local mechanic says the transmission needs replacement. It’s throwing fault code P0733: Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio.

The shop is a well-known Miata specialist here in Austin, and I trust their diagnosis.

The problem is the replacement options.

They located a used transmission with 147,000 miles and quoted $2,800 installed, including shipping, fluid, and labor. Price seems mostly fair, but I hate replacing my original 52k-mile transmission with one that has nearly 3x mileage.

We both called transmission shops throughout the area about rebuilding mine. Every shop gave the same answer: they can’t source the necessary parts.

I’ve also searched for a remanufactured transmission, checked the vendors listed in the Miata Wiki, and come up empty.

Before I resign myself to scouring ebay/the web for the best used transmission I can find, does anyone have other suggestions? Any shops, parts sources, rebuilders, or contacts I may have overlooked?

Thanks in advance y’all!

Started feeling a shutter and hard shifting. Took to a mechanic and he confirmed, the transmission needs to be replaced. I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 2wd. It has 134,000 miles on it. I live in Nashville. I spoke to one shop and for a brand new GM replacement with labor and taxes $6700. I spoke to another for a rebuild, $4200. I didn’t get to much information, just a quote. Really what is the best thing to do. Also if anyone knows a transmission shop they trust near Nashville, it would be greatly appreciated. I’m from Georgia and I don’t know anyone out here and I worried about getting screwed. Thank you any advice.

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a pre-owned 2017 Toyota Innova Crysta 2.8 Z Auto The car has done about 149k kms. It’s running perfectly, but since I don't have a clear record of a previous ATF change even on the Service History, I want to get the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) changed for peace of mind and preventive maintenance.

I am stuck between two choices and wanted to get the community's take:

1. Toyota Authorized Service Center (ASC): To go to them and get it done

OR

2. FNG (Friendly Neighborhood Garage) There is a reputable independent shop near me that specializes heavily in Toyotas (Land Cruisers, Crystas).

**My Dilemma:**
Given that the car is at 149k km and 9 years old, a proper pan drop and filter change sounds like the right move to clear out any settled debris. However, since this transmission has no traditional dipstick, getting the fluid level exactly right requires a specific overflow temperature-check procedure. BIG CONCERN ‼️‼️‼️

Is it safer to let the independent specialist handle it because they are willing to do the thorough job (pan drop + filter change), or should I stick to Toyota ASC just for peace of mind, even if their service is just a partial drain?

Would love to hear from fellow Crysta or Fortuner AT owners who have changed their ATF at this kind of mileage!

Just got done rebuilding my 4l60e and I only have 1st or 2nd gear. It will not shit to 3rd but doesn't slip or anything just revs out in 2nd.

The reason for pulling is torque converter went bad from starving it shifting at 7200rpms.

My wife and I both have velosters 2014 and 2016. We have had little to no issues besides tires every 40k and regular maintenance. We got hers brand new in 2017 from a hyundai dealer. Has anyone had it replaced under warranty. If so let me know if they pushed back at all. It has 76k miles on it . Thanks for any input.

Wanted to hear some advice or experiences from people who have purchased used transmissions. I’ve got a 2020 Malibu I bought used recently, was told everything was in working order and did a basic look through it with a friend.

To preface, I am most certainly NOT a car guy and to my layman’s eye everything looked fine.

Comes to be a week or two later I start having shifting problems, take it to two trusted mechanics in my area and they both say I got a valve trapped open in my transmission causing fluid contamination throughout the system(code P2714 if your interested) requiring a total replacement, I got maybe another month or two at best before it dies on me.

Working with the original dealership to maybe get them to replace it for free as long as I supply the part, and was wondering if anyone had experiences with used/rebuilt transmissions. A new one is not in the cards for me and I really just need to make it back home before i handle the issue more permanently and a used is a FRACTION of what I was getting quoted for new.

TLDR: would love to hear thoughts on used/rebuilt transmissions

The transmission has 123k miles

I’m not exactly concerned this is a bad problem, I’m just curious what can cause it. As it’s been a noise ever since I bought it 40k miles ago and hasn’t gotten worse and I’ve had no transmission problems at all. The transmission has been serviced by me ever since I bought it (replaced 50% of the fluid off rip, and when no problems showed up and I noticed better performance, I replaced approximately 95% of the fluid).

For some reason only under a very specific load and down shift, there’s this quiet whiney/slight rattly noise. Only when I’m going at least 55 mph, and I accelerate in 4th, and it does the noise when it downshifts to 3rd, and immediately goes away once I go above 3k rpm. So only in like a 150-200 rpm window.

If im already in 3rd as I’m accelerating from 55-60 mph it doesn’t make the noise at all.

This transmission shifts smooth as butter, zero slippage or shutter, no hard shifts. And it’s been 40k miles and no problems.

It’s just weird as fuck lol.

Any theories?