All 3 of the bolts are one bad turn from being rounded smoother than Annie’s criminal, and the only tool I can fit in there is the 15mm wrench. My last ditch effort would be to buy one of those wrench that have a more hexagonal shape (and not rounded, like the cheaper ones), but maybe I’m missing something?
I don’t assume the brake pad is always supposed to be in contact with the rotor, it starts to smoke quite a bit after using the tractor at higher speeds and load. This is it adjusted to where the brake pad is barely pressing against the rotor when the brake is not applied, but still applies enough pressure to stop the tractor when the brake is applied. Now writing this, I didn’t think to adjust the actual linkage bolt, is that what I’m missing?
Would a 4l60e (attached to the 5.3l) fully seat and bolt in even if the two prongs that go into the trans pump don’t align with the torque converter? The one I’m working on is fully seated and bolted in, but doesn’t seem to be cycling fluids (tomorrow I’m going to verify by disconnecting one of the fluid lines). I put in 7 out of 13 quarts in so far, and that seems to be all it wants to take. I also did not drain the torque converter because I was unable to detach it from the flywheel (💔), and all the trans lines are brand new so they would be empty of any fluids, so could I just be that it doesn’t need any more?
I’m also (I know this is a lot 😭) having trouble getting it into any gears, the computer doesn’t register when I move the shift lever into any gears besides park, and that just locks and unlocks the doors, so I didn’t get to cycle through the gears to get fluid moving either. Sorry if this is borderline incohesive rambling 😅
I don’t think it’s a problem, but I know how sensitive these valve bodies can be. Should the cap be able to recess that much? When it’s push out to be level with the others, there’s a slight gap between the cap and the actual valve. (Sorry if these photos aren’t capturing that, I work with what I got LOL)
This is the trans pump off a 4l60e that suffered from mild heat damage. Could this be related? And should I replace it?
This is a 2011 Ford F150 ecoboost. Originally I thought this was cause by the PCM relay (that’s what the dealers said when the previous owner took it to them), replaced that and it did nothing. I then decided to open up the BCM, and found the main positive connection to be burnt. The rest of the circuit board seemed to be okay though. Any electrical wizards in here? Because I’m clueless when I comes to electrical, lol.
Best case scenario I never have to touch these again, but If I do, I don’t want to drill 2 of them out again because they stripped 😭