r/Smallblockchevy

Need some ideas because this one has me stumped.

1970 Buick Skylark with an SBC/TH350 and 168-tooth flexplate. I’m now using a brand-new Performance World 360900 clockable mini starter, straight-bolt pattern, rated for 153/168-tooth applications.

The starter engages and cranks the engine fine, but after releasing the key, the Bendix will sometimes stay engaged in the flexplate. I can reach in and push the Bendix back by hand and it retracts easily. Other times it disengages normally on its own.

Things I’ve tried:
Tested 0, 1, 2 and 3 conventional starter-to-block shims. Currently has 3. Problem still happens.
Currently has two mini-starter shims between the starter and billet mounting block to move the pinion fore/aft.
Retracted pinion has clearance from the flexplate and isn’t touching.
Wire-wheeled/cleaned the flexplate teeth to remove rust, paint and dirt. No change.
Spraying a little PB Blaster on the ring gear seemed to help temporarily, but obviously that’s not a proper fix.

This same failure-to-disengage problem happened with previous conventional starters too.

I also did a Sharpie test because I thought maybe one section of the ring gear was damaged. Every time the Bendix stuck, I marked that exact spot on the flexplate. After releasing it and cranking again, the same marked section could come around and disengage perfectly normally. So there doesn’t seem to be one consistent bad/dead spot on the flexplate. It seems random.

The starter cranks properly; the problem is simply that sometimes the Bendix doesn’t spring back out of the ring gear when I release START, but I can manually push it back.

I have this qft (guessing 650cfm) vacuum secondary mounted on my 350sbc victor jr s8ngle plane, and 1in 4 hole spacer, low end throttle response and hesitation was gone with the spacer, but its always had a lil midrange trouble, lets say im cruising and I snap open the throttle it hesitates for a sec then drops like a hammer and takes off, top end seems fine, whats possibly my issue (not sure the exact carb model) and i know the single plane isn't helping, going to a swap meet this weekend to try and find a cheap dual plane airgap. Thanks for looking! Last 2 pics are before I cleaned up the engine bay and added a spacer

I took my Chevy 350 to the block. It was seized from water entering through the intake. Please note, I have zero experience as a mechanic, so everything I learn to do I learn through YouTube.I was able to un-seize the motor, I honed the cylinders, replaced all the vaulves, seals, and push rods, cleaned the heads and block, and reassembled with all new fresh gaskets.

Then, I put on a brand spankin new AVS 2 Carburetor, and then I started it. It started pretty good and it sounded pretty good and then after maybe like 10-15 seconds after sounding real good, it turns off and fire shoots out the carburetor (see attached video for reference). What is wrong with it and what should I do next to help fix this?

I recently had timing done again after previous mechanic messed it up. No more skipping, sputtering or back firing. However, when I’m at a complete stop and mash throttle, it wants to bog down for a second then catch at wide open.

Been chasing this sine I bought it…
. New distributor
New wires plugs
New fuel pump and filter
New mass airflow
New air filter
New camshaft sensor
New starter
New IAC sensor
No vacuum leaks
Does have exhaust leak after first o2 sensor
TPS valve checked seems fine
New temp sensor

Anyone got an idea before I change these spider injectors??

What could it be? Starter or flex plate it was running yesterday after a few times but now it won’t run at all 72 chevelle W/ 350

Wasnt a problem before until I had to switch out my power steering reservoir and now belt always slips off my alternator. Pulleys line up perfectly. Possible Problems are: belt sits too close to the lower alternator bracket, harmonic balancer wobbles slightly, or alternator isn’t stretched out far enough to create better tension.

I was gifted this old Chevy and I’m still new to working on engines, my friend is helping but he’s not a mechanic by trade but knows way more than me.
Anyway, I replaced the cap (forgot the rotor), wires but the engine won’t start. He spraying (something?) while I try to start it up but it just won’t go. I noticed some a wire that’s missing from the ignition coil, could that be the issue?

Went from a 94 4.3 V6 with a nv3500 to a 1979 400sbc with an RV cam, edelbrock performer rpm, Holley Street hp (650cfm) long tubes dualed with an x pipe and glasspacks and a th400 transmission that came mated to the engine

Hopefully I can get away with a bent pushrod or a flat spot on a roller but she doesn’t sound too healthy. Yeah I know I have oil leaks.

What year do you think it might be?

Decided to try shoehorning an '86 Camaro 305 HO into my 1960 Land Rover restomod project (allegedly it'll fit with a little massaging).

I'm not well versed with GM products, but it looks like I need the '86 Camaro flywheel and clutch kit with a 10 spline disc. Does that looks right?

This is my first time attempting to build a sbc, I bought a rotating assembly that came with a set of heads from an old boss. It is a 4 bolt main bored .030 over making it a 355 according to him, I’m unable to figure out exactly what these Manley piston specs are. They appear to be aluminum, and have a 5 digit number stamped. On the underside they have “MANLEY” casted into them on one side and then a “1” inside of a triangle? Internet search doesn’t come up with anything that seems definite. I’m assuming they are an old line of pistons that may have been discontinued. My next question is the heads that came with it have little to no numbers casted in them, but someone has put money into them(am willing to take more pictures for anyone requesting). They look like bigger valves, moroso pushrod guide plates, and some kind of triple valve springs. I’m trying to build this engine on a budget and if these heads are worth using it could save me a lot. The only issue is they have been sitting around for a while and are starting to develop surface rust on the mating surface, do these for sure need to be resurfaced before putting the engine together or is there some kind of poor man’s resurface that can get me by? Sorry for the life story just trying to give as much info as a I can to see if anyone out there has been building these for longer than I’ve been alive and is able to just recognize these parts. Thanks