r/Smallblockchevy

I've had the car for a few years. My father owned it before and didn't have time for it. The engine seized, and we haven't been able to move it. We've tried rotating the crank with a breaker bar but can't get it to move. Its been filled with fluid, but the cylinders are dry. Is it worth trying to get it free, to see if it'll run again?

So I want to a simple clean of remove the paint from the threads. What are my options?

I’m working on my ‘88 Camaro project and am looking for suggestions for a next move. The engine idle is inconsistent; as you can hear it dips and surges, especially when cold. It will stall repeatedly as well.

It gets somewhat better when warm but is still not perfect. It feels especially underpowered when I let the clutch out off the line, too.

Details: 350 with TBI. 5-speed manual transmission. Unknown miles. Recently replaced heads/head gaskets after I floated a valve. It didn’t run great before the head work, but I think it was better than this. Timing set to 4 degrees btdc.

Replaced parts:
- Both temp sensors
- IAC valve
- Throttle position sensor
- Fuel filter
- Rebuilt throttle body
- Replaced one injector, the other tested OK visually
- Cap/rotor/wires/plugs, gapped to spec
- Coil
- Probably something else I’m missing…

I have purchased a fuel pump and sending unit and plan to try replacing those next.

I don’t have any specialty tools so I can’t connect the ODB1 port to my computer or anything. I’m hoping to sell it once it’s running well so I don’t really want to invest in the tools, either. I probably should just bite that bullet, though.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hello I need some help. I replaced the timing cover and gasket. After reinstalling everything I fired the truck up and oil was spewing out of the bottom the timing cover. Is it ok to use a bead of RTV to seal that? Thanks and sorry if this is a stupid question

I have a 76 Elco mild cam and long tube headers, It had a Y pipe setup with a resonator that it had since the 90s. It was worn, tired, and sat for years. I am taking it off and installing side dumps, what would y'all recommend to show its low, grumbly, mean muscle car tone, but not too raspy like a straight pipe would be? This video was before the upgrades, and a untuned carb, best video I could get of the Y pipe sound... Not the best... Anything helps! Ty!

Received this in the back of a truck I bough, part # yields no results. It’s LuK branded and 168 tooth but I can’t find an exact match. Wanting to sell it so I don’t want to list it with incorrect info. Pretty sure it’s for a sbc but unsure of specifics. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

We drug up a nice 85 C30 cab and chassis with the M code LT9 . Fired up and runs after 12 years but missing a stud and looks like bad gasket or ring.

I know it takes the triangle 3 hole gasket but does it also use a ring inside?

This one is a bit different as it has the large 2bbl Rochester with the vacuum governor.

I believe I need a stud, gasket and maybe ring, correct?

The manifolds are 1408 1238. Were these factory in 85? The truck is incredibly stock, owned by a feed store.

Never really seen this done before I don’t know if it’s a stupid idea or whatever but here’s what i’m thinking

1973 chevy squarebody sbc 350 with edelbrock headers and avs2 carburetor

I got new headlights put in and they have turn signals built in. Anyways the factory turn signals (orange light below the headlights) i’m not going to use.

I want to funnel air through them into the dual snorkel air cleaner. Is this possible or just stupid or??? Not sure how to go about this. I have an idea though

my friend has a 3d printer that does carbon infused material. I’ll have him make a funnel / port where the turn signal light sits. but how do I connect / do the plumbing to port all of that to the air cleaner ?!!!

I have a 2008 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ with the 3400 LNJ VIN F
I need help finding the torque spec for these cam bolts, all I can find is the torque spec for single cam bolt and not the 3 bolt pattern. I’m pretty sure these bolts are TTY, so not a good idea to reuse them. What bolts can I use instead for this application and what is the proper procedure of installing new bolts? Do I need to apply locktite?

Hey guys, I am having trouble figuring out why my car didn't pick up very much at the dragstrip when I upgraded some parts on my engine.

Parts that remain the same: 305 sbc, forged rotating assembly with flat top pistons, trickflow super 23 175cc cylinder heads (10:1 compression ratio in my case), 1.625" full length headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, borla straight through mufflers, 4150lb weight with driver, pac racing valve springs (155lb seat and 390lb open pressures), Morel 4602 high rpm hydraulic roller lifters.

Old setup: original bone stock Quadrajet carburetor, stock ignition, Edelbrock performer intake non air gap, Lunati hydraulic roller camshaft (219°/227° @ 0.050" lift, 112LSA, 106 ICL, 0.530" lift), 2400 rpm stall torque converter, 3.73:1 rear gears, 1.52 ratio comp cams rocker arms. Best quarter mile with zero tuning, 2.2 60', 6.1 330', 9.1 @ 79mph 1/8 mile, 14.0 @ 99mph 1/4 mile.

New setup: Quick fuel 650 cfm double pumper, MSD pro billet distributor, ported Edelbrock Victor Jr intake with 1" tapered 4 hole spacer, Lunati hydraulic roller camshaft (240°/252° @ 0.050" lift, 108LSA, installed at 105ICL, 0.590"/0.550" lift), 3800 stall torque converter, 4.10:1 rear gears, 1.6/1.52 ratio rocker arms on intake/exhaust. Tuned to run 12.5:1 air fuel ratio at full throttle. Best quarter mile, 2.1 60', 5.8 330', 8.6 @ 81 mph 1/8 mile, 13.4 @ 102mph 1/4 mile. Engine does not pickup any speed with more than just 27° of timing. Balancer zero mark is confirmed as being true TDC.

You would think with all the changes it would be a lot faster. Instead, I feel like almost all the gains are from a higher stall torque converter and shorter rear gear. Any ideas as to why this is? Exhaust back pressure? Valve float? I have no idea anymore.

At the higher RPMs I was losing power. Even from a dead stop if I slammed the gas it would bog down a little. I believe it’s the timing because not too long ago I noticed the hold down clamp wasn’t tightened all the way. I guess when I tightened it I bumped it a little. My grandfather timed it originally and it ran amazing until I got in there. I’m losing hope lol. First engine I’ve put in and really the first vehicle I’ve done extensive work on. Transmission, motor, suspension, among other small things. I KNOW it will run better. Today I got home from work with it was driving fine for the most part. Just in the highway if I punch it it hesitates and bogs around 70-80
I advanced a little (counter clockwise) unplugged vacuum advance and capped it. It didn’t seem to run better, more so it idled rough I moved it back to where I thought it was and now i can’t get it to run good. Not even where it was. I can crank it but it’s rough and it idles rough. I got it where I can drop it in gear and it doesn’t die it just sounds god awful.help lol any tips. I been watching YouTube going to mess with it tomorrow.

81 Suburban
383 Stroker
TCI Th400

First time building an engine. My 14yo son and I are building a 383 for our 1985 K20.

The donor block came from a running 1998 2500.

Settled on using the KBS motor coater kit for paint and pretty happy with the results. I'm sure 2k would be better but I don't have any experience mixing and spraying. The motor coater was brushed on and allowed to level. A second coat was applied while still "dry tacky." It leveled out great. A couple of runs in the detailed areas but all in, we're happy.

Looking for help chasing a miss fire. Pulled these plugs this morning after letting the engine cool over night, things to note about the plugs:

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#5 was wet with fuel l, but not blackened with soot

#7 & #8 are both blackened with soot, so I can only assume they aren't firing properly.

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I have come to find out that all the plugs are using an "anti fouling spacer", not sure that is helping or hurting anything. The plug wires are old, so they could probably use a replacement.

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Where would you start with diagnosing? These are new (less than 100 miles) plugs on an engine that sat for years (20+). There isn't any obvious oil being burnt coming out of the exhaust. I find it off that the front plugs seem to be fine, it's just the rear plugs that are having issues.

New to small blocks and this is this sound any kind of normal I for sure have a header leak on that side

Just recently got my 78 Small Block 350 to start up and idle properly and it’s smoking out of the drivers side header pretty hard, I would assume it’s a valve cover leaking oil onto it but I checked the gasket and it’s good, the valve cover is tightened down as much as it can be, I recently did a head gasket job on this car and everything is tied up so no more water in my oil, I also recently redid the oil pressure sensor as there was a leak coming from it, redid the intake manifold gasket because it had a leak a while back after I did the head gasket, not sure why my drivers side header is smoking so heavily, but my passenger side is fine? Any help is appreciated, I’d like to be driving this car soon!
I KNOW IT HAS LIFTER TICK THAT HAS YET TO BE ADJUSTED!
DO NOT COME ON HERE WITH NEGATIVE ENERGY AND TALK SMACK ABOUT MY BUILD, I’VE DEALT WITH A LOT OF IT AND IF YOU COME NEGATIVELY I WILL NOT TAKE YOUR ADVICE.