Had to run out and buy a replacement driver bit in the middle of a pocket-hole project because the original rounded over. Now the replacement driver bit is already feeling dicey after just a few dozen screws.
Is there a “buy once, cry once” #2 square-drive bit from another brand? Or can I switch to pocket-hole-compatible star-drive screws?
Is this simply a small ogee/cyma panel moulding applied to the edge of the bookcase stile? Or is the stile typically milled with this detail? (3 photos attached)
Would love to know how to think about this. Straighter grain = better?
Obviously the pics are for downlighting, but you get the idea. Imagine the shelves flipped so the light is on the top side.
(I am posting this as a follow-up to an earlier thread about shelf lighting. I found this elegant solution from swisswoodworkinginc on IG, while researching the topic.)
If one’s goal is uplighting a bookshelf, would this be the ideal custom solution for embedding/recessing the LED tape into the millwork?
My current plan is cut dadoes in the bottom of the shelves only, A, C, E. Would B, C, E be a better combo? Or A, B, C, E? Or something else?
This desk alcove is basically a tall refrigerator-sized cabinet made with 3/4” ply, but without a bottom panel. Important to know: the Desktop and shelves are captured in dadoes. What’s the best way to fasten it to the wall so it’s aesthetically pleasing?
Figured I’d use an Emitever driver and BTF’s tunable CCT tape.
I want the wall switch to control both the dimming and CCT tuning.
It’s incredible how little information there is on this topic anywhere. It’s almost as if nobody ever does CCT tuning! 🤷♂️
Quick cabinet question for this monolithic wall system I’m building: Murphy bed is now done and I just finished all the carcasses for the left desk alcove and the upper cabs.
WHAT I NOW NEED TO FINISH: 1) build a full-wall face frame and 2) build/install inset upper doors.
Would you build and fit the face frame first, then measure and build the doors to the finished openings? Or use a different order?
(Pic attached is an earlier draft, 95% accurate, but you get the idea. Some small quirks with the details.)
ANY HELP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION IS APPRECIATED, big or small! I know there’s got to be a straightforward best practice for this.
The plan I hatched myself: mount the LED drivers on top of the cabinets (Emitever—they’re metal and have 120V and 24V knockouts).
P.S. One caveat: there is a basement, BUT this is an exterior wall, so dropping cable down a stud bay isn’t so easy—the wall sits on the concrete foundation.
Would appreciate any ideas!!! (I’m new to this.) Can I get something in beige/oatmeal that would look nice for $10/yard?? Or am I going to need to spend $30+/yard? Grateful for any advice, obviously I’m new here!
Is there a better brand that does the same thing as this switch? I’m just a hobbyist and want something easy to adjust on the wall. I stumbled on this product but never heard of this brand before so I wanted to ask you guys if they’re above board. FYI this is the “EZDim Pro CCT” and appears to cost about $130.
I’m gonna give it a shot, but I’d feel better if I could find some inspiration pics or get advice. Grateful for any thoughts, thanks.
This is my Sketchup model for a cabinet system I built. Millwork has integrated aluminum LED channels for the shelves/bed (24V class2, driver in cabs). My question… ideally, should ALL lights be controllable at the door?
A switch in the desk alcove seems like a nice intentional detail so you don’t need to get out of bed. Is there a right way for premium homes? 🤷♂️ Appreciate any thoughts before I take a router to these painstakingly finished cabinets!
Assuming all else equal (cost, materials, etc.), from a traditional furniture-making and architectural millwork perspective, which is the “better” design? I’ve developed some opinions, but I still consider myself a novice. Would love to hear if you have any thoughts or strong opinions!
Nerd alert. It’s a lazy Thursday and this has something that’s been nagging me for too long. Is the center stile chosen purely on design and not cost? What does having it “say”?
I’m new at this but man, I spend more time cleaning than spraying! I know this is a common newbie thing to say but how can I improve my workflow or cleaning setup so it doesn’t take as much time? Appreciate any advice.
EDIT: Fuji Q5 HVLP sprayer with a gravity cup, and Sherwin Williams Gallery Series for primer and top coat.
First things first, yes, this is a 99th percentile detail and I’m treating the Murphy bed with architectural/furniture-grade detailing than cabinet installation. Wondering if some of you have some decent solutions… All Murphy bed kits have ugly, unaesthetic black stamped steel brackets that IMO unnecessarily cheapen the surrounding millwork. I’m thinking of making a removable panel that can conceal most of the hardware while still allowing movement/access. Maybe held on with rare-earth magnets, idk. Ever seen this, or a better solution? I’ve done a TON of research on the socials and haven’t seen ONE example of anyone addressing this ugly albatross.
Painting a bunch of built in cabinet panels. Pasting my nicely formatted deets/context, below. Humbly appreciate any advice from you finishing ninjas!!! 🙏
Cabinet Finishing Notes
Primer: 1 coat SW Gallery Series Primer
Topcoat: 2 coats SW Gallery Series (unthinned)
Equipment
Fuji Q5 HVLP
Gravity cup
1.5 mm tip
Settings
Turbine: 9–10
Fluid: ~50% open
Fan: ~50% wide
Cap: Vertical
Technique
Target distance: 8”
Actual distance: 8–12”+ at times
Overlap target: ~50%
(Idk how much I’m actually hitting my targets, need to pay more attention)
Results After Top Coat #2
Some panels: very smooth/perfect
Some panels: spitting appearance, little dots
Large panels: color/sheen striping (still drying though, only been 90 mins so far)