Assuming all else equal (cost, materials, etc.), from a traditional furniture-making and architectural millwork perspective, which is the “better” design? I’ve developed some opinions, but I still consider myself a novice. Would love to hear if you have any thoughts or strong opinions!
Nerd alert. It’s a lazy Thursday and this has something that’s been nagging me for too long. Is the center stile chosen purely on design and not cost? What does having it “say”?
I’m new at this but man, I spend more time cleaning than spraying! I know this is a common newbie thing to say but how can I improve my workflow or cleaning setup so it doesn’t take as much time? Appreciate any advice.
EDIT: Fuji Q5 HVLP sprayer with a gravity cup, and Sherwin Williams Gallery Series for primer and top coat.
First things first, yes, this is a 99th percentile detail and I’m treating the Murphy bed with architectural/furniture-grade detailing than cabinet installation. Wondering if some of you have some decent solutions… All Murphy bed kits have ugly, unaesthetic black stamped steel brackets that IMO unnecessarily cheapen the surrounding millwork. I’m thinking of making a removable panel that can conceal most of the hardware while still allowing movement/access. Maybe held on with rare-earth magnets, idk. Ever seen this, or a better solution? I’ve done a TON of research on the socials and haven’t seen ONE example of anyone addressing this ugly albatross.
Painting a bunch of built in cabinet panels. Pasting my nicely formatted deets/context, below. Humbly appreciate any advice from you finishing ninjas!!! 🙏
Cabinet Finishing Notes
Primer: 1 coat SW Gallery Series Primer
Topcoat: 2 coats SW Gallery Series (unthinned)
Equipment
Fuji Q5 HVLP
Gravity cup
1.5 mm tip
Settings
Turbine: 9–10
Fluid: ~50% open
Fan: ~50% wide
Cap: Vertical
Technique
Target distance: 8”
Actual distance: 8–12”+ at times
Overlap target: ~50%
(Idk how much I’m actually hitting my targets, need to pay more attention)
Results After Top Coat #2
Some panels: very smooth/perfect
Some panels: spitting appearance, little dots
Large panels: color/sheen striping (still drying though, only been 90 mins so far)
Just thought I’d open a discussion… I suppose sometimes the toughest leather boot is the right call, and sometimes it isn’t. Anecdotally, the last roofing crew I observed all seemed to be wearing beat up runners or skate shoes which stunned me! I imagine maybe iron workers or linemen or carpenters might also have some strong opinions based on experience and not just price or aesthetics. Anyway, curious…
Daydreaming here, would appreciate someone humoring me. Attached garage. Currently 20A 120V. Main panel is in basement on opposite side of house, maybe 50 ft away. Need 240V for a future 8” jointer. There’s a decent chance I’ll add more shop equipment later, so I’d like your opinion on running a single circuit now for a jointer versus installing a garage subpanel.
The abrasives are just getting gummed up after ~1 sq ft of action. I’ve only got a year of hobby experience, but I’ve not encountered this yet. Very curious to know what the root cause is… appreciate any advice. I’m going to hold off on further sanding for now until I can figure it out. These abrasives aren’t cheap. :)
In fairness, it explicitly says “Not intended for roofing or sidewall applications” but I’m just trying to rehab an old shed, not build a multi-million $$$$ home on Martha’s Vineyard… but still want *~aEsThEtiCS~*, not build a multi-million dollar coastal cottage home. Real cedar shingles are 5x more costly… I estimated $600 vs $3000 for a 20’x10’ shed. T1-11 is the current cladding…
Plan: 1) Bottle jack it up 2) 2x4 tracks + 5” PVC rollers 3) Pull it with snatch blocks anchored to screw-in ground anchors. Does this pass a basic feasibility test, or is it a bad idea? Not asking for a full design—just a gut check. Appreciate any thoughts.