Curious if anyone else is experiencing this? I've had solid 300 down / 20 up for quite a while, since I've had my Home Internet in 2022. Since the last six months or so, not moving the box or anything, I've been lucky to get over 100 down and 10 up. Is it just network congestion, or do I need a new box or ??
Is the Reolink Indoor lineup still looking like the E1 lineup for standard, Pro, outdoor? Curious if they have made any that are newer / better than those models, searching the sub here that is all I seem to be able to find.....
Been watching Paramount Plus shows on the Roku without issue. Within the last few days, whenever we go to play a PP show, the little blue bar gets stuck either halfway or 90% of the way into playing the show and then a screen pops up about a playback error
Things I've done to fix it
Restarted the system via Settings>System>Restart
Removed and reinstalled the Paramount Plus app on the Roku
Factory Reset the Roku and set it back up
None of these seem to have fixed the issue. I'm able to play the same Paramount Plus show on my phone without any issues of playback error, so I'm thinking its an issue with Roku. Other apps like Netflix and Youtube TV play fine on the Roku, so I'm thinking its the Paramount Plus app on the Roku
I have the Windows Client setup on my PC to view the NVR and each of the IP cameras I have. For a while when I opened the client, it started up in the NVR view and everything was great. Lately however, without any updates, its been opening to one of the IP cameras and thus the views of my cameras i not in the order I would like. I can fix this by going to the NVR device then the display shows my cameras in the order I want in the boxes, but its annoying to have to do this every time. Did a setting get changed, or is there a setting I can change to make a certain view the default?
Building a lux sensor using an ESP8266 NodeMCU with a BH1750 lux sensor. I coded in the SDA pin to be GPI04 and the SLC pin to be GPI05. Ground and 3.3V are in the correct pins as well.
When I do an IC2 bus scan, I get no devices found in the logs.
I've used this same board with a temp / humidity sensor so I know it works, not sure if the issue is loose wires, my soldering job or what, but help is appreciated....
# Board: NodeMCU v2 (ESP8266) (NodeMCU)
# Definition: definitions/boards/nodemcuv2/manifest.yaml
esphome:
name: light-sensor-1
friendly_name: Light Sensor 1
esp8266:
board: nodemcuv2
logger:
api:
encryption:
key: "JGq9lFKXBLIjepHgHqmKw4oWkIAvcK8lrx8gulSaWlY="
ota:
- platform: esphome
wifi:
ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
password: !secret wifi_password
ap:
ssid: Light Sensor 1 Fallback Hotspot
password: "SUUuvlkEgW5O"
captive_portal:
i2c:
- scl: GPIO5
sda: GPIO4
id: i2c_1
scan: true
sensor:
- platform: bh1750
name: Light Sensor A
i2c_id: i2c_1
id: sensor_bh1750_1
update_interval: 15s
force_update: true
INFO Successful handshake with light-sensor-1 @ 192.168.20.237 in 2.592s
[11:03:35.048][I][app:151]: ESPHome version 2026.6.2 compiled on 2026-06-23 11:02:04 -0700
[11:03:35.048][C][logger:223]: Logger:
[11:03:35.048][C][logger:223]: Max Level: DEBUG
[11:03:35.048][C][logger:223]: Initial Level: DEBUG
[11:03:35.048][C][logger:230]: Log Baud Rate: 115200
[11:03:35.048][C][logger:230]: Hardware UART: UART0
[11:03:35.048][C][i2c.arduino:064]: I2C Bus:
[11:03:35.048][C][i2c.arduino:065]: SDA Pin: GPIO4
[11:03:35.048][C][i2c.arduino:065]: SCL Pin: GPIO5
[11:03:35.048][C][i2c.arduino:065]: Frequency: 50000 Hz
[11:03:35.048][C][i2c.arduino:079]: Recovery: bus successfully recovered
[11:03:35.048][I][i2c.arduino:089]: Results from bus scan:
[11:03:35.048][I][i2c.arduino:091]: Found no devices
[11:03:35.077][C][bh1750.sensor:017]: BH1750 'Light Sensor A'
[11:03:35.077][C][bh1750.sensor:017]: State Class: 'measurement'
[11:03:35.077][C][bh1750.sensor:017]: Unit of Measurement: 'lx'
[11:03:35.077][C][bh1750.sensor:017]: Accuracy Decimals: 1
[11:03:35.129][C][bh1750.sensor:232]: Device Class: 'illuminance'
[11:03:35.129][C][bh1750.sensor:076]: Address: 0x23
[11:03:35.129][E][bh1750.sensor:078]: Communication failed for 'Light Sensor A'
[11:03:35.129][C][bh1750.sensor:434]: Update Interval: 15.0s
[11:03:35.129][E][component:216]: bh1750.sensor is marked FAILED: unspecified
[11:03:35.129][C][captive_portal:133]: Captive Portal:
Just got a few of the ESP8266 MCU boards and am trying to flash a temperature sensor onto the device.
The board is hooked up directly to my Home Assistant box and the USB is passed through. I get the following error every time I try to upload the project. Not sure if its an issue with my code or with not being able to flash to the device. Since I'm brand new, I don't know what I don't know and could use some help to make this a success.
Looking to make a Lux light sensor as my first ESPHome project through HA. I've bought ESP8266 boards and BH1750 light sensors. My question is how do I power them? I really want them to be scattered around the yard for best placement of future solar, but everything I'm reading says that battery power these wifi devices will not work out well. I've got no power to the backyard (in the USA) so at a loss for how to power these things when they are deployed.
I've read that LifePo4 AA sized batteries work well for an ESP8266 but before I dump even more money into this project, curious what others use for power?
With it being so hot here in OC, how is everyone staying under the 12.8Kwh daily limit for SCE? I'm at 10 to 12 without running the air, and I don't have that much going on at my house, fridge, PC, Modem / Router.
Its just crazy to me that the CPUC sets the daily baseline limit so low when a place like Mission Viejo can be 15 degrees warmer than a place in HB with the ocean breeze, yet we are all zone 8 and some 6, but the difference is about a Kwh a day....
Edit to add that I'm on the Tiered plan, as TOU literally makes my bill go up any way I slice it...
Looking at honeycomb shades (possibly blackout ones) to reduce heat in our home in SoCal, but just looking at Home Depot's website there are lots of choices from sub $100 to over $250. How does one know what type to buy, or does anyone have a manufacturer recommendation?
I've got the Emporia Utility Connect and one of its sensors is a monthly KW usage. However, it always resets at the first of the month. My Electric utilitiy starts on the 29th one month, the 31st the next, etc. Does anyone else have this device and have a way to set it so that its gets on the utility schedule and not just the same rest on the 1st of the month?
Curious if anyone else has this issue. I have the Solaredge integration setup so that it pulls data every 15 minutes. Around the 4PM mark, it shows 0 kW
h generated for the day and this is the graph
However, if I look at the energy grid it shows production well into the 5 and 6 PM hours....
Its using different entities, so obviously there is an issue, I just don't understand why the default integration isn't tracking properly and stopping at 4PM?
Curious if anyone else has had this issue? I have Retinopathay of Prematurity which is a static (stable) condition and my vision is 20/60 and 20/200 in my eyes. I got my original driver's license in 2005 for a full (then 4) year term with night driving restriction. I was able to auto renew online. In 2010 I was able to take another SDPE at night and have that restriction removed. I was able to online renew in 2014 and 2019. In 2024 I was told I had to come in for a vision, thumbprint, picture, etc. I completed the DL62 form required that showed my vision was still the same as it had been in 2005 and the condition was static. During my SDPE in 2024 I missed I think 4 on the test. I was told I passed and to go in and get my license. I found out when my license came to me that it was a medical 2 year renewal.
In 2026 I went to the DMV to renew my license, taking another DL62 from my doctor showing my vision was the same as it has always been and the condition was static. I also took my previous DL62's and their Vision Action Chart from 2014 (but still active on the DMV website). When called the lady seemed to have no idea what the DL62 form was and took it to her supervisor. Eventually after a little back and forth with her, I spoke directly to the supervisor who said that while my Dr can recommend 5 year renewal and show my vision is stable, it was up to the discretion of the examiner to issue me a medical term license. I asked why that had never been explained to me last time, or why 2024 was the first time I had ever experienced this. She was unable to provide any answers, but kept telling me it was up to the examiner.
My question that no one can seem to answer is how do I break out of this cycle? The examiner in 2024 told me I was a good driver and never mentioned a medical term license, if he had I would have discussed it with him. I feel like this is discrimenatory against people with low vision, if the examiner hates Asian or Black or White people then they can make my life hell by making me renew every two years when there is no reaosn to have to do so. Has anyone been trapped in the same cycle I am and found a way out? I was able to renew for years before this, so obviously its possible, I just don't know the way to make it happen.
Looking for a new place to take my 2010 Prius that isn't a stealership. In particular I've got really tight steering that seems like it needs lubrication or maybe even a new belt or something. Curious if this place is still recommended? I saw reviews from a few years ago on here, but that was a few years ago. Yelp shows decent reviews with one or two One Stars thrown in recently...just looking for honest recs.
EDIT: Was actually hoping to know if this particular place Certified Japanese Auto Repair is reputable and still worth going to in 2026. Not really looking to take my car all the way to CM or FV for service if some where in South OC can do a decent job...
Looking to put in attic flooring. I plan to put 1 x 2 x 4" boards across the joists to not compress the insulation, and then put boards (shiplap / tongue and groove / plywood?) over the top of those boards running perpendicular. Can't seem to find definitive answers on what type of boards, what size, etc I can use? Can someone help me out before I buy the wrong thing and put all the time / energy in to not have it pass code?
