Hello just wanted to get some advice or any tips on taking the B1 exam. I currently been going through the study companion and highlighting all the answers for the quizzes at the end of each section and have the tabs. Is it worth getting the practice quizzes from Building code masters or ICC?
South Carolina | Regional Builder | 2021 IRC adopted.
In Alberta Canada going to do a 40' x 30' wide garage/farm machine shed materials package. I'd like to use helical piles for the foundation but I can't find information correlatinh the spacing of the piles with the size or type of still beam. For example, I would assume 4' spacing would require a much smaller beam than 8' spacing. But what size of beam and LVL versus built up 2x8 or 2x12, and so on?
Hoping someone can enlighten me as to why Building Code, Fire Code, etc., permit what looks like an accident waiting to happen.
Gas stove with minimal barrier to prevent furniture placement
In the photo, there is a gas range placed at the end of a kitchen counter. For the sake of argument, the fuel source could be electric and it would make no difference: a fire on the stove top could quickly spread to the adjacent furniture. There is a minimal barrier present between the range and sofa but it appears to be constructed from combustible materials.
I can't find anything in the California Building Code that would disallow this layout. It's astounding to really. All permits for this renovation were filed, approved, and work finaled in mid to late 2020.
I'm going to guess this type of layout is permissible across the USA. I would prefer to see a proper wall from floor to ceiling with minimum 1/2" gypsum.
Interested to know if this is permissible construction elsewhere in the world.
I have a small void where previous owner made a back extension but didn't take the concrete floor right up to external door edge.
I need to fill the void with concrete.
Any tips on how folks would do this?
Fill void with concrete half way, then lay a piece of DPM overlapping with the existing bit, the extra concrete on top?
Or put insulation board in the void, then DPM on top, followed by concrete?
Does anyone know if the second higher railing in the pic is needed for code? If so, any ideas on how to make it less disjointed. Could I get just a solid longer rail?
I just noticed this cover of piping in the top of my entrance where I pass hundreds of times per day and keep so much clothes exactly under it is like this (it became like this probably while moving something, but could have happened before even I move here or in the past 2 years I've been here)
Can it be asbestos?
It's an old house in Norway which was built before World War 2 but probably some parts became renovated
But don't know about pipes
Hi All,
I did some renovations in my house through a licensed contractor . 2 bathrooms , recessed lighting all through the house. New flooring, etc . The contractor did not pull any permits for the new recessed lighting .
Are these permits needed ?
And do I need to inform my home insurance ? I live in San Francisco..
Looking for some advice, or maybe roast me. Curious if I have any chance of suing for damages or if I’m f’d and learning an expensive lesson. Broke ground on an outdoor renovation about a year ago, rip up and renovate a concrete backyard space. Paid a company on Upwork $4500 for architectural plans, framing, plot plan etc stamped by an engineer. Outdoor attached pavilion was built to plan by my contractor, and it recently failed framing inspection due to several egregiously undersized support beams. Scratching my head that the plans were approved by the town building dept, not caught by the builder, and made it all the way to being built before the issue reared its head. Plan called for (2) 2x8 to span a 21 foot span and an 18 ft span of a pavilion which does not come close to building code (in any jurisdiction) and especially not in MA with snow load requirements. The guy I hired was out of NY, not an engineer, had a “partner” stamp the plans. Engineer appears to be currently licensed in MA but as a civil engineer, not structural and expires in June. Do I have any hope of holding both the architect and the engineer accountable for damages? Or is this classic Upwork stamp fraud and I’m stuck holding the bag? My options now are tear it down and start new, or fundamentally depart from the design to sure it up at an added cost.
Currently working on a project where an Automated Storage Retrieval System is being installed in an S-1 storage building. The system is top loaded vented bins. Within the grid are tunnels with occupants loading products into the grid. The tunnels are 16 feet to top of deck and open on the sides to access the grid(not a rated corridor). There sprinklers within the tunnels.
Crux IBC 1017.2.2 condition 2 requires the bottom of deck above to be a minimum of 24 feet. The deck over the tunnels is comprised of resindek atop B deck. In order for smoke to permeate to the roof deck above (45 feet AFF) it was proposed to drill holes in the tunnel deck. Can the 70% openness be reduced because smoke is the only consideration since sprinklers are provided within the tunnel?
Hello, I have a question that I can’t seem to find the answer to online. My next step will to be to call my town’s building department to see if I can get a definitive answer. I have 3 steps/risers from my front entrance. They currently have rails right now however these railings are from the 1960s and are rusting/rotting. So much so that if you touch them they shake quite badly. I could replace them but I am also wondering if i can remove them entirely? From the top of the steps to the ground is 19 inches. Does anyone know the answer to this? I do have pictures if anyone needs.
In a new build in Virginia. Spacing between house is 11ft (ridiculous, I know). Didn’t register in my head this would be an issue until I started mowing. Sump from both houses drain to the same spot.
Builder’s warranty states that if there is pooled water after 48 hours in a swale, they’ll remediate. Builder rep states 48 hour timer restarts whenever one of the sumps discharge. I’m about to buy a camera I guess and monitor it?
Virginia code R401.3 says ground around foundation must slow away at 6 inches within 10 ft, or if properly lines/structures don’t allow it, it must drain into a swale. Does that mean this is allowed? Since this is a swale? Am I wrong to question this? I just want them to bury drainage pipes for us and be done with it.
Roofer by trade so not a framer but this totally doesn’t look right to me. Am I wrong?
I'm in the Raleigh-Durham area of North Carolina.
I'm transitioning into this field and have been pre-qualified in all 5 levels and hold my application letter from the board stating I'm eligible to take the Standard L1 exams.
I have an interview next week and a bit nervous. I have an out of ordinary previous career that isn't construction, but I really want this is interview to go well.
I’m looking to replace the existing 2x6 ceiling joist 24” OC with a 2x10 16” OC floor to possibly add another bedroom on the second floor of a 115 year old home. The span of the joists is roughly 14’-15’ between exterior wall and center support beam.
My idea is to sister the existing 2x4 exterior walls with full length 2x6 boards notched 2” at the top portion for a ledger board to sit on and then fasten to the existing wall. The bottom of the 2x6 will also be notched top fit between the existing 1st floor and exterior wall.
I need the 2x6 depth on the walls for upgraded insulation.
These are some very rough sketches to hopefully get the idea across
I am looking to pull a permit and want to check if this would pass code first.
House would have to pass current code adoption for Rhode Island
I feel like I’m being an unreasonable ass, but I just can’t wrap my head around the last two attempts I’ve had at passing the ICC Special Inspector GR exam. The first time I got a 48 after walking in there blind with just the confidence of my experience & ability to go through books. I was shocked on the results, because I felt like I found every question & confirmed it in the book before I answered it. But I had to accept it considering I didn’t take time to sit & actually understand the material before the exam.
I took the next 1.5 months to study a minimum of an hour a day along with some practice tests on the weekends. I felt 100% confident enough to take the test, signed up for it today, and got a 32… It makes no sense. 5x the study time/material used, I had an idea of what would be on the test from the last go around, and I was getting minimum 90s on all the practice tests. I don’t get it.
In addition, The exam results doesn’t actually tell you which you got wrong or right, further frustrating me that I can’t challenge any questions that were marked as incorrect?
I know this sounds like I’m just not accepting of the failure, but it just truly doesn’t make sense to me. I’m not saying I’m too smart to fail, instead that I have my engineering degree, an EIT, and 10+ years of field experience so I understand the field and know how to prepare for an exam. I do not get how I did worse the second time, especially with the amount of confidence I had going in, during, and when I submitted my results.
Anyone have something similar happen or any guidance?
Portland, OR, USA.
Converting old single family house to cafe. Trash/recycling bin area will be inside a shed attached to the building. Does that area have to be drained to sewer?
I gather if the trash/recycling were outdoors, it would have to be fenced, with a curb and drain to sewer. But this is indoors.
Thanks!
Hello ,
I just noticed the stair width isn’t as per code about 36 inches.. what can be minimum change I can do to make it legal.
I am thinking to remove side wall make in picture which will free up 2 inches and install hand rail ..
I got a letter from my insurance I need to put handrails on the steps to my porch (home purchased fairly recently). Totally agree and want to be sure I’m getting it done properly. Mainly I want to do this once, not twice both because of this being time sensitive and not wanting to pay for it twice. The letter specifically asks for handrails no mention of guardrails however we know they can always ask for more. So in your opinion do I need to add handrail with guards or will I be okay without it? The front of my porch measures 25” high at the point you step onto to the porch. Various points around the porch vary depending on if mulch is washed away, etc. but I’m not clear if code means the physical ground or visible ground (land Vs mulch). I will be adding to the porch coming up it’s on the list so I’m less concerned at the moment if the porch needs guards with the rails but can I do the handrails that do not have guards?
Location: Henrico County, Virginia, USA
Single Family Home
5 Stairs (4 is the minimum to need a handrail) (25-27” Hugh porch in the front of the porch where you’d step onto the porch Vs stairs)
Code 311.7.8.1 Virginia Residential Code.
Question: do my handrails required by insurance also need to have guards?
