r/BuildingCodes

I have an interview with a building official tomorrow for a Building Inspector position. I already had the panel interview it went well and now they want a second interview with the building official. Anyone have any tips on what they could ask or what I should prepare for?

Kid has been seeing people build media walls on social media and now she potentially wants one. Media wall in this instance = a small (depth) 2x4 bump-out with an electric fireplace, mantel and TV with the sheetrock on the ceiling and back wall remaining intact.  She shows me people attaching individual shiplap boards (not sheets) directly to the bump-out framing and I’m trying to figure out code reference(s) before building dept discussion (or whether this is no bueno).  WA state, 2021 IRC with state amendments (haven’t seen any local amendments that would apply).  I can’t find anything on point.  R702.5 explicitly addresses paneling and R702.6 addresses wood shakes and shingles which I don’t think would apply .  Any help appreciated and thanks in advance.

This is a dumb question.

I am renovating a bathroom. pipes will be install using the drop ceiling below. I opened my subfloor for the plumber to install the new pipes.

Can I close the subfloor before framing inspection?

I thought they have to see all opened cavity, but at the same time, I can't frame without a subfloor.

I'm currently building my first commercial steel railing and I've run into a predicament. I have a guardrail that is 42" tall and a separate handrail that is 36". I know the handrail has to extend one tread length past the nose of the bottom tread. What about the guardrail? I have a post landing in the middle of a 12" tread and I want to end the top of the guardrail at this post. Is this okay or does the top of the guardrail need to extend at least to the nose, or beyond, of the bottom tread.

I'm in Minneapolis, MN for reference.

I'm an architect working on a project in LA County. I'm from a different jurisdiction, so this has been my first foray into the CBC, LABC, CASp inspections, etc.

We have exterior walls finished with fairly standard textured stucco. Our recent CASp (Certified Access Specialist) inspection rejected the handrails at exterior stairs because, in their interpretation, the wall surface behind the handrail needs to be smooth.

Is textured stucco "smooth"? Not in the literal sense, but neither is exposed CMU or a wall with the lower four feet clad in stone. We have both conditions on this project, including stone immediately adjacent to handrails, and neither was flagged.

Our applicable code is the 2019 CBC. §11B-505.8 states:

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The code doesn't actually say the adjacent surface must be smooth; it says it must be free of sharp or abrasive elements. Textured stucco certainly isn't as smooth as a skim coat, but is typical stucco considered "abrasive" to the point that it requires correction? And what actually defines the line between textured (acceptable), sharp (not acceptable), and abrasive (not acceptable)?

The proposed correction could mean creating a zone of "smooth" stucco that follows the handrail almost like a shadow line. Beyond the aesthetics, that's an incredibly expensive proposition to introduce as we're approaching TCO, particularly when "surfaces adjacent" to the handrail doesn't appear to have a clearly defined limit, either.

Has anyone dealt with a similar interpretation from a CASp or AHJ in California? Was there a successful argument that typical textured stucco complies with §11B-505.8, or did you ultimately have to modify the finish?

New to this area of work but not new to construction. Read the book along with the study companion and man there is a lot of info in there lol. Any tips on studying for the exam or is it more just figure out where to find it? I did get turbo tabs so that should help finding most areas. Next on my list is the building codes along with plumbing,fire protection,mechanical and electrical.

Hey y'all! New homebuyer and ignorant to the permitting process (Montgomery county, outside city limits, single family home, homeowner/DIY permits)

I'm doing some electrical work and been calling the building and codes office for questions and ending up concluding that I need an electrical permit for several things and purchased one rough-in inspection and one final inspection for electrical work done in a few rooms in one area (all apart of one project you could argue).

❓I know I will be doing electrical work all throughout the year depending on project timing and different factors, yet I can only pull 1 electrical permit a year. So I'm a bit confused by that.

I also contacted them to pull records of permits pulled on this property in the last 7 years (I know for a fact we had contractors do work that would have required permits, and I'm 90% positive the previous homeowner didn't follow anything by the book..). They told me there has been no permits pulled in that past 7 years (it also was like pulling teeth to have them directly respond to my question).

The companies we hired we're both large, nation-wide companies (full plumbing pipe replacement and water heater replacement) as well as local contractors (electrical re-wiring and exhaust fan installation). It seems none of them pulled permits and they never mentioned anything about permits.

❓Would they just not be on record for me to see or know about?

❓If they should be on the record, is this normal? Do I need to report this and have the companies/contractors pull and pay for permits?

I'm now waiting for a rough-in inspection for the electrical work I did/am doing, most of our house with walls torn down, not knowing when they will get back to me or when i can continue the projects.

❗️If anyone can help shed light on this permitting process, that would be extremely appreciated.

Not sure about all of the terminology. For context, I’m referring to Orange, CA. My in-laws own a good sized piece of property with a back garage that was built by my father-in-law who owns a masonry company. The back garage is definitely structurally sound and has never had any issues. It’s been there for a couple decades. Basically, my husband and I are wanting to discuss building on top of a permitted garage in the front of their property to live in. When we’ve talked to them in the past about building an ADU on any part of the property, they’ve just been anxious about people being on the property having a problem with the back garage. When I’ve asked ChatGPT, it says it wouldn’t be an issue because it’s not the garage we want to build on. Any advice? Is this even the correct sub to post this on?

EDIT: House was inspected EXTENSIVELY by general inspector, structural engineer, roofer, sewer and electricians (all different vendors). I'm aware of all issues and for serious ones (electrical & sewer/plumbing) I had sellers give me a $25k repair credit AND to fix electrical before closing. They finished electrical work and inspector doesn't want to turn power on because of potential code violations.

Austin, TX. Buying a house and closing Thursday.

Licensed electrician found an arcing main service, Austin Energy shut power off, and he completed the emergency service repair.

City inspector came for reconnection, walked right by electricians and started looking through the windows and apparently noticed the recently remodeled kitchen/beam. He told the electrician’s crew he’s going to DEMAND an interior inspection and escalate possible unpermitted work.

Power is still OFF. My electrician thinks the inspector may now block reconnection until the interior is investigated.

I don’t even own the house yet. My lender needs power on for the final inspection, so this could literally kill the closing.

Nothing is showing in Citizen Connect or AB+C yet.

Anyone here who actually works with COA permits/DSD: can an inspector hold electrical reconnection over unrelated remodel work he spotted through a window?

And what’s the fastest way to find out if there’s an actual hold and clear it?

TL;DR:I’m buying an Austin house Thursday. After an emergency electrical repair, an inspector saw a recent remodel through a window and may now be blocking power until he inspects the interior. No power could kill my closing.

What 2 seperate inspectors have told me is that fireblocking is required on tall framed walls. One said "every 10 feet". The other said "midspan". I block my sheathing on edge for nailing for various reasons

. Mind you, the walls in question range from 12-20+' tall. Im a framer of 25 years and I know and read thoroughly my local code book. I take great pride in my work and knowledge of local building codes. For Michigan its 2015 Michigan Residential Code (still). The section on fireblocking is short and concise. The only two applicable sentences under 302.11 are 1.1.1 and 1.1.2 : "1.1. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels" and "1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet (3048 mm)."

Inspectors often think (or have learned) that 10' applies to a vertical concealed space. It does not. We DO firestop with a vertical stud every 10' (measured horizontally) in concealed spaces such as a basement partition wall that is gapped 1" from the foundation, for example.

Is this 10' horizontally AND vertically a code somewhere else in the US? Was this a recently amended code?

Mind you, the first failed inspection I simply pointed to the code book that approves insulation as a fireblocking material. I said, "Even if you interpret use of the word 'horizontally' to apply to exterior wall stud cavities, these walls are getting insulated". He saw mineral wool insulation bundles on site and mumbled something about "i guess thats ok". The second inspection just happened on a massive 8500 ft house we finished framing in June. Different inspector, different city. He is finishing the inspection Monday and I plan to meet him on site. Superintendent called Friday and said he only finished half of the inspection, mentioned the structural/ framing was "impressive, but we need fireblocking in the tall walls".

Thoughts and feelings?

Church in VA. About 50 years old. Original structure. Called a GC buddy to help fix it up after I found a couple of shingles on the ground. He sent a roofer who says it needs upgraded sheathing and insulation. I thought this was a minor repair. Now I have to spend thousands? Where in the code is that? He sent me some snippets of the IRC. Shouldn’t the IBC apply? What about the IEBC? My GC friend mentioned those two. Any help is appreciated. I’m also going to set up a meeting with my building official.

Hi all, recently, I have been researching what profession I would like to do once I am older (I am a senior in high school,) and have found that everything about being a building inspector quite intrigues me. I was just wondering on if getting to ICC C8 (B1, B2, M1, M2, E1, E2, P1, P2) is feasible. I am roughly one year away from being able to take any exam (I am 17,) and would be able to spend a sizable amount of time each day studying the codes.

My general plan is to use the companion books + the codes to study for the first 15 months, creating flashcards on Anki (Digital flashcard maker with built in SRS) for each piece of code I believe I should remember, along with using it to memorize where I can access information given a question on the test (etc if it asks something about chairs, I could pinpoint where in a book the code discusses chairs.) I would disperse online tests as well, making sure I get 90%+ before moving on to studying the next certification.

The last three months would be me tabbing my now acquired books and cramming everything I have learned. I hope to do this so I can climb the career ladder faster, whatever that means, and be able to have a decently high paying job almost straight out of high school with no debt.

So, I would like to ask, does this plan seem possible in the time I have allotted for it, and is there anything I should know before embarking on this journey? I am in California if that matters.

Thank you and toodaloo!

Hello all, working on an After the Fact window replacement permit in Ann Arbor,MI.

Reviewer rejected the permit because the installed windows are U-0.34, while Michigan's prescriptive requirement is U-0.32.
They said they will reconsider if I submit a REScheck.

This is simple alteration (same opening, no structural changes).
No documentation exists for the original windows.

Looking for advice from anyone familiar with Michigan energy code.

- Is RECcheck commonly accepted for window only alternations?
- Can existing-building provisions help when the new windows slightly miss U-0.32?
-Any practical ways to justify compliance with U-0.34 windows?

Appreciate any insight.

Just went under agreement on a mixed use. Started process of rezoning and so far so good. Inspector and architect have been throufh. Overall the construction should be a relatively light lift but we'll see about fire.

I'm about to start a project to have a walk-out basement staircase built as part of a broader basement renovation project. The basement will have one room which I want to be considered a bedroom/sleeping space for resale, and as such I understand the walk-out stairs must meet certain conditions for emergency egress. The local township code enforcement officer directed me to "2021 IRC section 310," which (to me) reads like the standard 7.75"/10" is not not required for "emergency egress." I hope I am reading this correctly, as the bottom of the staircase will be at least 9 feet below grade, and standard staircase would require a total run of nearly 12 feet. Either way, what is the TL;DR version of staircase requirements for emergency egress (and therefore legal basement bedroom)? Thank you!