After reading about the fed transition away from R410-A, what is the replacement refrigerant for my 2.5 ton Mitsubishi MXZ3C30NAHZ2 after it is no longer available?
No issues yet, just looking forward to bracing myself. Thanks.
2020 Pilot EX-L 62K, Does not have NAV. Owned it since new. Completely stock. No mods of any kind. This is a new issue, within the last year. Admittedly, I don't use apple maps all that often. But I KNOW it used to work.
My iPhone 17 Pro with apple maps works fine when NOT connected to (wired) carplay. The car doesn't have wireless carplay. It knows where I am (I can see it on the map) but can't find can find any destination I ask for. When connected to carplay (wired), I ask for a destination and siri replies either "I don't know where you are" or "I'm having trouble finding your location". Yet it shows me accurately on the map on the screen of the infotainment center.
All location services are on for the app. Even "precise" location". Google maps works perfectly whether wired or not.
I have rebooted the phone many times. Shut off the car, left for 15 mins and came back. Same issue. I updated software in the car yesterday to see if that would resolve anything. I tried 5 different cables from different manufacturers. I deleted and re-added phone to carplay & Bluetooth a few times.
If I open apple maps (not plugged in) and search for a destination and then start navigating to it, and THEN plug the cable in, Apple maps in carplay will navigate fine. But I've never had to do this before. If I end the route and ask for a new destination while still plugged in, it STILL can't find a destination and siri says the same thing. It has been working fine on wired carplay for 5+ years.
Thanks for any help.
I have 3 line sets. The one in back is only a couple years old and I covered it with a sliced pool hose. The other two (that look like they're disintegrating) are 5 years old. and I covered a section of it with a sliced pool hose. Should I be worried? Should I add pool hose to these as well? Thanks.
2020 Pilot EX-L. I woke up Friday to all my windows down and Sunroof open all the way. I went out of town for several hours and came back. Windows all down again.
My presumption was that my cat "accidentally" triggered it by hitting the lock button on the fob once, then a second time holding it. But twice in a 24 hour period?
I have two fobs for that car. I put both of them in a room on the far side of the house last night. I confirmed that none of the buttons on the fobs work from that room. This morning, all windows down again.
I couldn't find a setting for it. I went to the dealer to ask about it. They confirmed there is no setting for it in my year/model. I am probably going to put a camera in and see if I can capture it happening.
Any thoughts?
I am a DIY but I am fluent with residential plumbing, electricity, electronics and automotive AC.
The system (Gibson WSA2BD4M1SN42k 3.5 ton outdoor unit) was installed as a replacement in June of 2024. It was ordered to be installed by the previous owner. She simply wanted to get it to pass a home inspection to sell the house (2 months). It worked fine for the hot seasons of 2024 and 2025. 3 weeks ago after sitting for the 2025/2026 winter, no cooling. I have a theory I'll offer at the end.
A week ago I checked the electricals (didn't have gauges with me). As best I could determine, all were good. Changed the capacitor just for grins. No change. I put the original one back in.
Here is what I found last Sunday. I connected a set of gauges to the unit this weekend. As expected, with the system off for several days, both sides were equal. I initiated a call for cooling and the low side went down to 0 psi, and the high side went up to about 50 psi and stayed for several minutes until I shut it off. Obviously, very low, but I believe this proves the compressor working. I suppose there could be something else wrong with the compressor.
My conclusion (from a DIY perspective) is that A. The system and all the "active" components are thus far proven good and the system may just be low on 410A due to a leak somewhere in the system. I would guess at the outdoor unit valve area given the oily residue in the base pan, (see pics) but who knows without doing a leak test. And B. that the installer, to save money/time used the existing valve/fill assemblies (1/4 inch instead of 5/16 for R410A) from the old system which perhaps was an R22 unit. I don't know what the old unit was. The house was built in 2005 if that gives any kind of a clue. We can not get in touch with the previous owner and there is no indication of who did the replacement.
I am neither qualified nor comfortable attempting any further repair and am going to call an HVAC pro. I am interested in your thoughts as to whether I am on the right track and also is there any information I can give to the HVAC person to help them Dx and repair the system. If it is in fact a leak at the valve/fill assembly, any guesses on a reasonable cost for a repair? I realize if the leak is elsewhere, buried in the house, lines or evaporator, that there will be more time and possibly materials involved.
Thanks for any advice you may be able to offer.
Greetings,
My son has a 2-year-old Gibson WSA2BD4M1SN42k 3 1/2 ton split AC system that is not cooling. It worked fine when done for the season last fall. Upon powering up yesterday (very hot up here in the Northeast), no cooling. The interior blower is providing the expected volume. Outside unit fan is turning at the expected speed. The compressor appears to be running (based on audible sound). Both the high side and low side lines are at ambient temp.
I have not been out to the site yet as it is a couple hours away and I wanted to get some suggestions/advice so I know what to bring with me. I am pretty well versed on residential heating and to a lesser degree residential AC. Both split (central) and mini-split though I am very familiar with automotive AC. I am well aware of my technical limitations.
Where I haven't been on site yet, admittedly, I have not taken any voltage or resistance measurements, but it would seem to me that from the observed behavior (assuming the compressor is, in fact, running) that the dual capacitor and contactor are functioning and my issue may be lack of or low R410. I have a set of automotive gauges that are labeled (they only show gradations for only R134.)
For informational purposes only: The backstory is, my son signed a P&S on the house in May of 2024. Between the signing of the P&S and the closing, the AC went bad and the seller had a new one installed. She has/had very little information on who installed it and where they are/were located). I called Nortek and they looked up the serial number. They said because the installer/homeowner did not register the unit upon install, any default warranty has expired. I think they said it was 1 year. If they HAD registered it I believe they said it had a 5 year parts and 10 year compressor warranty. They were able to tell me what supplier/warehouse bought the unit and I called them. They were not able to tell me which contractor purchased the unit. So I have a model/serial and 2-3 month window of installation.
Any thoughts or suggestions before I go on site? Thank you.
Greetings,
My son has a 2-year-old Gibson WSA2BD4M1SN42k 3 1/2 ton split AC system that is not cooling. It worked fine when done for the season last fall. Upon powering up yesterday (very hot up here in the Northeast), no cooling. The interior blower is providing the expected volume. Outside unit fan is turning at the expected speed. The compressor appears to be running (based on audible sound). Both the high side and low side lines are at ambient temp.
I have not been out to the site yet as it is a couple hours away and I wanted to get some suggestions/advice so I know what to bring with me. I am pretty well versed on residential heating and to a lesser degree residential AC. Both split (central) and mini-split though I am very familiar with automotive AC. I am well aware of my technical limitations.
Where I haven't been on site yet, admittedly, I have not taken any voltage or resistance measurements, but it would seem to me that from the observed behavior (assuming the compressor is, in fact, running) that the dual capacitor and contactor are functioning and my issue may be lack of or low R410. I have a set of automotive gauges that are labeled (they only show gradations for only R134.)
For informational purposes only: The backstory is, my son signed a P&S on the house in May of 2024. Between the signing of the P&S and the closing, the AC went bad and the seller had a new one installed. She has/had very little information on who installed it and where they are/were located). I called Nortek and they looked up the serial number. They said because the installer/homeowner did not register the unit upon install, any default warranty has expired. I think they said it was 1 year. If they HAD registered it I believe they said it had a 5 year parts and 10 year compressor warranty. They were able to tell me what supplier/warehouse bought the unit and I called them. They were not able to tell me which contractor purchased the unit. So I have a model/serial and 2-3 month window of installation.
Any thoughts or suggestions before I go on site? Thank you.
