u/jims_walking_journey

Passed on day three of the Milford Track, the falls, at 1,904ft are the highest in New Zealand (click for full image)

From Neist Point, Isle of Skye, Scotland

A tough walk today and one where you need a head for heights. A steady walk up through woods with magnificent views over to the Mont Blanc Massif takes you to the steep rock faces that make up the ladder section. Take your time and eventually you reach Lacs des Chéserys. The ladders haven’t finished yet though as there are a few more to negotiate before Lac Blanc is reached. Relax at the refuge by the lake before heading down what is a knee breaking rubble worn path to Refuge La Flégère. To read more about this section click

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Today the mountains return with vengeance and it's a long steep climb up from Trient to the Col de Balme where we cross the final border back into France. Stop at the Refuge du Col de Balme for some lunch and admire the panoramic views down the Chamonix valley, where Mont Blanc can once again be seen. Walk down past the ski lifts enjoying views all the way to Tre-La-Champ via Le Tour.

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Starting at Dob Gill car park it’s a pleasant walk up through the forest to Harrop Tarn. The forest road is followed for a short while but a bridleway takes me back into the woods before the open fell is reached at a gate. After a bit of bracken bashing I reach the fence where I climb up a defined path to the left of Standing Crag and onto the broad summit plateau/ridge. Then it’s a case of walking along the ridge to arrive at the summit of Ullscarf. Great views on this day unlike the last time I was here and all the big ones were on show. From the summit I take the path to Greenup Edge which is fairly straightforward. The path into and down Wythburn however is one I won’t be in a hurry to repeat. No discernible paths in the upper part, a river crossing and plenty of bog made for hard work and wet feet. The reward is a desolate, unfrequented valley with plenty of waterfalls on Wyth Burn. Eventually the reservoir road is reached and I followed it back to the start.

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A change in mood and tempo today as the high Mountains are left behind for a while and the scenery becomes more rural. Quaint Swiss villages, gentle rivers and pastures are all passed through with very little gradient to speak of. A slight up takes you to a forested nature trail with wooden carvings and then an arrival at a touristy Champex with its inviting blue lake. We stayed just out of town at the gorgeous Gite Bon Abri which I highly recommend.

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Another great days walking leaving Italy behind and entering Switzerland. After leaving Rifugio Bonatti there is a fairly level path until dropping down into Val Ferret where frustratingly having to regain all the height you have just lost climbing up to Rifugio Elena. After a break in he Rifugio which has another impressive bal onh view there it is a sustained climb up to the border of Switzerland at Grand Col Ferret which is the highest point on the regular TMB route. Spend some time here taking in the views before heading down into the valley on a pleasantly graded good path. Refreshments can be had at the Gite Alpage de la Peule before walking on to La Fouly.

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The quiet road to Stonethwaite is taken which leads to the foot of Eagle Crag which is climbed by a steep and increasingly exposed path. The ridge line then leads on to Sergeant’s Crag which has good views of the surrounding hills and down Langstrath. The path to High Raise is followed initially but the head of the valley is curved around to reach Greenup Edge and then on to Ullscarf. The path down Greenup, passing the imposing Lining Crag takes you back to the start.

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A steep climb out of Courmayeur on the road takes you to the bridge crossing the Torrent de Tsapy. Delightful forest walking follows with glimpses through the conifers to the surrounding mountains. It's tough going but Rifugio Bertone provides the perfect place to stop for a rest and something to eat whilst admiring the views from its terrace. What follows is a marvellous balcony walk along the Val Ferret with spectacular views over to the Mont Blanc Massif before reaching Rifugio Bonatti.

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Incredible scenery as you cross from France into Italy at the Col de La Seigne. We got the bus up to Ville des Glaciers from Les Chapieux but still enjoyed the scenery and saw a Marmot. Leaving the bus at Ville red Glaciers it's a steady climb up to Refuge des Mottets where we had a morning coffee sitting in the sunshine looking up at the ice sheet of Glacier des Glaciers. What follows is a relentless climb up to the Col de La Seigne with Incredible views looking back down the valley. At the col you arrive in Italy with spectacular views over the snow to the jagged peaks on the south side of Mont Blanc. It’s worth a stop at the little museum at the bottom of the steep section dropping off from the col. A pleasant walk along the valley takes you to Rifugio Elisabetta which has to have the best balcony view of any refuge.

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From Seathwaite Farm I walked up the farm track to the old, lovely and much photographed Stockley Bridge, naturally taking a picture myself. From here the path up Grains Gill leads steadily up to the imposing north face of Great End where I turned left and headed up Ruddy Gill to Esk Hause. From the hause it's a short climb to the summit of Allen Crags. Steps are retraced back to Sprinkling Tarn and I admired the view of Great Gable from across the waters. Seathwaite Fell lies across some boggy terrain and after a bite to eat on the summit I took the short and steep drop off to the Sty Head path which I followed back to Stockley Bridge and the start.

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It’s uphill from the start but the path does level out and provide good walking to the sound of cowbells to Refuge La Balme where there are public toilets and water. From the Refuge the walking gradually get more mountainous and rocky as you climb upwards to the Col du Bonhomme. Superb 360° views from the col. The walk to the Col de La Croix Bonhomme has a tricky bit across some slate and a river at the end just before the final rise to the monument. Lunch at Refuge Col de La Croix Bonhomme is followed by the long but flower filled descent into Les Chapieux.
A tough day crossing the Col du Bonhomme and a long descent into Les Chapieux but the path is good and the views superb.

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A longer walk than the first day takes you through quiet woodland and pretty villages with glimpses of snow topped distant mountains. Lunch can be had in Les Contamines which is just off the trail. The river Bon Nant is followed for much of the day providing shade in the trees and a soothing soundtrack to your walking. Once the chapel of Notre Dame de la Gorge is passed the trail heads steeply upwards over Roman Bridge to finish at lovely Refuge de Nant Borrant.

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The walk up to Grisedale Tarn from Dunmail Raise gets the legs warmed up before the hard work of climbing up Dollywaggon Pike. The path has been much improved since the last time I was here with good solid zig zags. Once on Dollywaggon Pike I can enjoy one of the finest ridge walks in the Lake District with little effort to expend as the path takes me over five Wainwrights, Dollywaggon Pike, Nethermost Pike, Helvellyn, White side and Raise. Fantastic views all round on what was a dry and sunny Lakeland day. From Raise I dropped to Sticks Pass and then took the path down to Sty Beck Farm stopping to admire the attractive Sty Beck falls on the way.

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Arriving at Lukla is an adventure in itself but after safely touching down at the 'most dangerous airport in the world’ the trekking starts here. Having collected our rucksacks we stop for a coffee before an easy first day takes us to Phakding. It's a chance to stretch the legs and start to acclimatise to the thin air, you're already 9,000ft above sea level. It's also an opportunity to take in the unique atmosphere and culture of trekking in Nepal, one that will become familiar as the weeks go by. Cross the suspension bridge over the Dudh Khosi and you arrive at Phakding which is actually lower than Lukla.

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An easy day to get our legs moving. Pleasant woodland walking, a stop at the lovely cafe of Les Vielles Luges, up through the ski lifts to Col de Voza and then a pleasant walk down to the gorgeous Refuge du Fioux with lovely aspects over the mountains.

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