Pre-assembly of Bents a bad idea?

Hi folks - Im building my first timber frame and things are progressing along and Im close to finishing the joinery for the first bent. My initial plan had been to cut all of the pieces and then on assembly day put them all together as I think is common. What Im wondering though is if its a bad idea to assemble the bents as I build them. And by assemble I mean peg them into a complete bent.

Im still working out my work flow - I think ideally it would be easier to cut all the posts at once, all the tie beams at once, etc but since this is my first build I wanted to do a complete bent first to make sure my joinery was working and that my measurements were OK. The problem Im running into is storage space - I have limited room to store the cut beams and since Im doing a test fitting anyway as I cut the joinery for a bent - could I not just pin all the sections and let that bent sit as a completed unit? Then do the next two in the same fashion? Then all I would need to do on raising day is attach the door posts and the girts. My point is that I dont have room to store the cut beams inside so is there any reason not to just complete the bent and store it assembled outside?

I know that this is likely uncommon due to the space required to store an assembled bent - but in my case I can assemble it then just pick it up with the tractor forks and stack it over by where the raising will happen later on.

So is this a bad idea? My guess is that I might run into some issue with fitting the bent into the post brackets on the bottom. Maybe this is something that's easier to attach at the base and then pull the joinery together at the top?

reddit.com
u/jonlandit — 7 days ago
▲ 16 r/timberframe+1 crossposts

White pine discoloration

I know I’ve asked before - but I was hoping some other folks could chime in if I’m doing something wrong here. I’m struggling with keeping milled fresh pine from discoloring. But after some reading I think I’m dealing with two different things. One I can likely do something about and one I can’t. If you look at the pictures attached I think the one with splotchy blue stains is mold - I don’t know why I keep getting it. This beam is stored in an open barn - lots of air - and I sprayed the beam with a borax solution as well. This is the discoloring I’m struggling with. The other two picture seem to be in the grain and I believe is possibly the sap wood just changing color. I don’t mind this and am guessing there’s not much I can do about it.

Am I reading this right? Anything else I can do about boards that are molding as is the first picture?

u/jonlandit — 12 days ago

Peg length

Hey folks - I had really hoped to be able to make my own oak pegs (even set aside the oak logs and bought a froe) but Im running out of weather and decided that I can justify the cost to buy them so I can focus on the joinery. The Will Beemer frame Im building calls for 12 inch pegs - but the ones Im looking at Timber Framing HQ are only 10 inch...

https://timberframehq.com/shop/timber-frame-pegs/?gadid=&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping_PMax_US&utm_source=Google_Ads&utm_medium=Paid&utm_content=Main&hsa_acc=8551143312&hsa_cam=18405210865&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22873277508&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5P7UBhDaARIsAOSlS1MorClK97BbHkwZ2gp9ajyQZhoyuyUdQ1ubEFELzGOcq-zuLmRbIKgaArv7EALw_wcB

I get that in most cases folks like them longer so that they can hang things on them and they are easier to remove - but I can't find another reason why 10 inch pegs wouldnt work for this build as the largest member is 7x8.

Timber Frame HQ seems like a fair price and they have the 1 inch and 3/4 inch I need and specifically call out that they work well with the wood owl bits I have. The only possible negative I see is that the champfer at the ends is more of a radius but I imagine it will still be enough for draw boring to work.

u/jonlandit — 1 month ago

Is there errata for “Learn to timber frame” by Will Beemer?

I’m reviewing the plans as I start milling and I’m confused by the girt picture on page 105 (attached). This seem to indicate that the reference corner of the girt is the corner with the bare faced tenon. As the tenon is set and measured from the outside of the building wouldn’t the reference corner instead be the one facing the front of the tenon - the one I’ve drawn it on? If not I’m about sure how this would work. The drawings on page 107 seem to support my theory but want to double check.

u/jonlandit — 2 months ago

Milling for square rule layout

Hi folks - I finally have everything ready to start milling my white pine logs for the Will Beemer build. As I’m doing square rule layout - my initial thinking was I’d mill the beams oversized for instance the 7x7 would be 7.5x7.5. This seems the safest means for me to ensure that I get a final building that is the exact dimension I want.

I’m thinking about this correctly right? Just want to double check before I start milling.

reddit.com
u/jonlandit — 2 months ago

Concrete Piers for lumber mill - rebar needed?

Hi folks. I’m looking to get my mill up on some proper beams that will sit on concrete piers. I’m in northern WI so I need to go down 3-4 feet to get below the frost line but I think they’ll extend no more than a foot above ground. That plus the beam the legs will rest on should get me up as high as I want. I’m doing 8 inch sonotubes- some folks are telling me that I need rebar in the piers - others seem to be looking at me like I’m crazy when I say that I need them.

Anyone done this before and can give some insights into that you folks did?

reddit.com
u/jonlandit — 2 months ago

Plan for milling timbers

Hi folks - So Im starting to think through how to mill my logs to get the timbers I need. My initial hope was to mill multiple square timbers (7x7) out of one larger diameter log. But as I read more about milling it seems that milling the square timbers boxed heart is the safest way to go. I do have a few logs that are large enough diameter that I could get 4 7x7s out of a single log - which was my initial plan but Im now wondering if its safer to go the boxed heart route.

So I see a couple of options...

* Mill the logs into the biggest cants I can. Then work the cant from each side milling off pieces that I will eventually use for siding. The end result would be the boxed heart timbers I need.

* Mill the logs into the biggest cants I can and if possible try to get multiple 7x7s out of each cant.

Anyone have any thoughts? Im planning on doing square rule layout so I'd really be looking for 7.5x7.5 inch beams.

reddit.com
u/jonlandit — 4 months ago

White pine logs have arrived!

I’m planning on building Will Beemers timber frame from the book this year and I finally found an amazing local logger to source logs from. My plan is to mill as I need cutting the joinery one log at a time. But in the interim should I be worried about these drying out at all? Would it be worthwhile to seal the ends as many of these might be sitting for a few months before I get to them?

Can’t wait to start milling these into cants and see what Timbers I can get out of each log.

u/jonlandit — 5 months ago

Tung oil finishing question

Hi folks. I’m experimenting with more natural outdoor finishes. I wish I would have taken a picture of this table before but it had been sealed with some kind of film finish which peeled and looked terrible. I took a belt sander to it and am now trying to finish with a tung oil based finishes. The first layer is 50/50 pure tung oil and citrus solvent. Went on great and really looks good IMO. I know tung oil can take a long time to cure I was hoping for better weather but the night I put the first coat on it rained a little bit I had tipped the table against a wall but it looks like a few drops still made its way on and ran down the top. I was surprised to see they left marks like this as I thought tung oil was pretty water resistant.

Anyways my instinct here is to let it dry in the garage and maybe add another coat. My initial plan had been to top coat this with a finish made of bees wax, carnauba wax, polymerized tung oil, and more citrus solvent. I’m hesitant to try that until I get these water stains out though. Thoughts?

u/jonlandit — 5 months ago
▲ 1 r/kubota

Hi folks. Went to go hook up a new implement on my tractor today and found once side of the tooling almost frozen. I was able to get it to move by taking it off and threading a pry bar through it. Have since unthreaded as far as it will go, sprayed the crap out of it with PB blaster, cleaned the threads and it’s a little easier but not much. On closer inspection it looks like the threads are disintegrating a little.

Any ideas? I’ve read you can take the grease fitting off and pound out a pin to get it to unscrew fully but haven’t gone that far yet. If you look closely you Dan see part of the threads are literally falling off.

u/jonlandit — 6 months ago