Wife wants family car "biar bisa angkut barang banyak/gede"

Me, coming home with 22 y.o. 4-doors saloon:

Item di foto: kusen portable panjang 210cm

u/kemosabe6296 — 3 days ago

Iseng2 bikin concept livery

BMW M3 GT3 x Garuda Indonesia

(Btw gaada yg flair yg sesuai jd gua masukin discussion aja ya)

u/kemosabe6296 — 4 days ago
▲ 3 r/e39

How do you set your AC?

I'm from Indonesia so AC is a must here. It is 30-40°C during the day and 25-28°C at night. Humidity is around 60% in dry season like this, and around 80% during wet season.

Mine is 525i, M54B25, and it has IHKA instead of manual AC.

Before I did my AC job, I set the AC with fan speed 1 (out of 17?), 20°C both sides. No matter how hot outside. It is not freezingly cold, but enough to not make me sweat inside. I was using E36 compressor, as previous owner set up that way, lol.

Now, since my compressor went kaput, I replaced all the AC components and feel that fan speed 1 is not enough. Now at least I set the fan speed at 3, or 4 in a hot day. I am using original Denso compressor for E39 that I believe has variable valve unlike the previous E36 compressor which only has engage-disengage mechanism. If this is somehow related, passenger side AC is stuck at 16.5°C because my wife broke the button, lol.

Is this somewhat normal? All these times I was using E36 compressor so I don't really know how's the behavior of a normal working E39 AC. How do you set yours?

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 9 days ago

Chinese Behr AC evaporator, has anyone tried it?

Got to replace my evaporator on my BMW E39, the shop offers me Chinese Behr or non-Chinese Mahle (I believe Behr is now the same as Mahle?)

Chinese Behr is half the price of Mahle. (~111$ for Behr, and ~220$ for Mahle)

I live in Indonesia so I have limited option. Is either those two, a Thai-made evap "Formula" (~56$) or a local made "Yuki" (~34$). On my wife's W211 the P.O. use Yuki condenser and it ran fine. However since replacing evap is such PITA and I don't want to do this twice, I'm quite unsure. The shop doesn't recommend me "Formula" as well because of bad experience in the past.

I'm on a tight budget since my compressor went kaput so I had to replace all of the AC system. Has anyone have experience with Chinese Behr?

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 13 days ago

Repetitive words

Temen gua orang Italy magang di kedubes Italy di Jakarta, dia sambil belajar Bahasa Indonesia dan dia punya pertanyaan: Gimana ketentuan kata2 repetitif di Bahasa Indonesia? Menurut dia banyak hal random yang pake kata repetitif di Bahasa Indonesia.

Gua jd bingung jawabnya karena kata2 repetitif di Bahasa Indonesia bisa buat macem2, contoh

  • Menunjukkan jamak: ikan (singular) -> ikan-ikan (plural)
  • Sebagai kata benda: ari-ari, laba-laba
  • Sebagai kata kerja: coba-coba, pikir-pikir
  • Menunjukkan pengulangan: berkali-kali
  • Menunjukkan kemiripan/menyerupai: kebarat-baratan, mobil-mobilan (mainan)
  • Mungkin ada yang bisa nambahin lagi

Sebenernya di KBBI/aturan/apalah ada ga sih ketentuan soal kata2 repetitif? Abis dipikir2 banyak juga ya kata repetitif di Bahasa Indonesia.

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 14 days ago
▲ 1 r/e39

Weird AC problem.

So after my compressor went kaput I replaced basically everything except the evaporator. The evap is like 1 month old. Went to the shop and they thoroughly cleaned it for 24 hours. Checked everything we found that the evap has a hole on it. Since it is only a month old evap, so I tried to weld it. Installed all that and we checked, no leaks. We filled it with refrigerant (r134a), and the ac blow cold.

A week later, the AC blows warm on one side, and cold on the other--classic case of refrigerant leak. Sometime later, I hear hissing noise from the evap--another classic case of evaporator leak. So I guess the weld did not work. Went to the shop and tried the cheapest way first: top up refrigerant.

It needs 1 can of r134a (~395g). Hissing noise is gone. AC is very cold.

Two days later, AC is warm again. This time, both sides. Hissing noise is back.

Next day, I brought the car back to the shop and the AC is somewhat cold. Not as cold as it should, but definitely cold. Hissing sound is gone. I still lose some refrigerant, though.

What cause the hissing sound to come and go? And why the AC goes cold and warm randomly?

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 15 days ago

How does the gacha shop business survive?

One thing I really don't understand about Japan is how the gacha shop survives. I can understand about claw machines since usually they are part of arcade game business, so maybe the main source of income isn't the claw machine itself, but from other arcade games, or even stuff like photobooth. Plus it does seems like arcade game businesses are always busy.

However, the gacha shop... this is I don't understand. Yes there are some gacha machines that is part of another business like in merch shops or department store. But I've seen there are some gacha shop that only have gacha machines.

Like in Divercity mall in Odaiba, when I first went there back in 2024 I only saw one gacha shop, but this year I believe there are two or three of them (I believe the owner is the same because it has the same interior and placement, couldn't remember the name). I didn't see any advertisements in the shop, so I believe there is no income from advertising.

Or in Yokohama's Chinatown, there is a huge three stories gacha shop that has massive amount of gacha machines. This also has no advertising inside the shop.

And I've seen gacha shops like these around Tokyo.

With locations like that (placed in a mall, or in a multi-story building) the rent must be a lot. I tried to calculate it with simple math using assumption, if the rent is 4 mill yen per month, and the gacha is 500 yen each, they have to sell 8000 gacha items in a month just to cover the rent. Not include other fixed costs.

Is the gacha market is really that promising, or maybe they have other source of income that I don't know?

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 17 days ago
▲ 5 r/NTE_EN

What cartridge will suit Iroi the most?

I got very lucky and got Iroi only after 8 pulls and her arc in 2 pulls lol

I know Iroi use Speedy Hedgehog and based on the recommendation menu on the game, the main attribute is either ATK or Healing Bonus.

Which one do you use for Iroi? I'm thinking ATK would benefit her in terms of dealing damages but I guess Healing Bonus would be very useful as well for her role as support?

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 23 days ago

Kenapa orang males nyebrang lewat sarana penyebrangan? (JPO/zebra cross)

Flair gua bikin heart to heart karena lebih ngerasa miris aja

Jadi kemarin gua lagi di daerah Cipete, nyusurin Jalan RS Fatmawati yang di bawah jalur MRT. Gua lihat ada 3 orang nyebrang bukan pada tempatnya. Satu cowok masih muda, satu satpam, dan satu lagi udah agak sepuh di kursi roda. Gua berhenti persis di depan mereka, posisi mereka udah di sisi kanan jalan, mau nyebrang kehalang separator jalan.

Masalahnya, jadi di Jalan RS Fatmawati itu separatornya lumayan lebar, mungkin 2 - 2,5 meter. Dan banyak yang separatornya itu di buat kaya kebun gitu, jadi di tengah2nya itu tanah. Nah ini si cowok yg masih muda dan satpam ini malah ngangkat2 yang di kursi roda buat nyebrangin separator. Otomatis kesulitan dan bikin macet (tau sendiri jalan itu kalo jam pulang kantor ramenya gimana).

Yang bikin miris adalah, ga sampe 50 meter di depannya itu Stasiun MRT Cipete Raya. Dimana ada lift yang bisa di pake untuk nyebrang.

Karena gua kasihan ngeliat bapak2 di kursi roda berusaha di gotong2, gua bilang "pak nyebrang disitu aja *nunjuk stasiun*, disitu ada lift pak bisa dipake nyebrang"

Si cowo yang masih muda jawab "oh disitu ada lift ya pak, maaf ya pak", tapi masih aja berusaha buat gotong2 kursi roda ngelompatin separator (masih gagal).

Gua bilang lagi "pak kesitu pak pake lift aja, sy bantuin nyebrang balik". Dia jawab lagi "maaf ya pak". Tapi masih berusaha naikin kursi roda ke atas separator.

Karena gua udah di klaksonin, jd gua tinggal.

Gua bisa paham kalo memang ga ada fasilitas penyebrangan. Gua juga bisa paham kalo yang nyebrang sendiri, dan ga pake kursi roda. Tp ini lo bawa sepuh di kursi roda dan lo jaywalking sampe harus gotong2 kursi rodanya ngelewatin separator (yang tengahnya kebun) padahal ga sampe 50 meter itu ada stasiun MRT yang ada lift yang bisa dia pake nyebrang.

Masa semales itu sih muter dikit demi kenyamanan dan keamanan diri sendiri (dan bapak2 yang di kursi roda).

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 24 days ago

Ada yang berpengalaman berurusan dengan broker apartemen?

Jadi intinya, gua ada apartemen di Bandung (gua tinggal di Jakarta)

Gua pasang iklan di sewakan, ga berapa lama ada broker yg hub, katanya bisa nawar2in. Dia jg kasih lihat ID Card resmi broker apartemen tersebut. Oke, gua ke Bandung, gua foto KTP dia, gua kasih surat kuasa, dll. Dia minta fee 5% dari harga sewa. Ini dari tahun 2018.

Selama ini, uneventful. Si broker ini ga pernah aneh2 atau gimana. Pernah berapa kali pinjem duit dan selalu dibalikin tepat waktu. Ada apa2 pun selalu report ke gua.

Terus covid. Akhirnya gua turunin, dari 4.5 juta ke 3.5 juta per bulan (fully furnished). Untungnya selama covid, tetep keisi. Disini, gua ngebebasin si broker mau minta fee 1% atau gimana, krn gua jg kasihan sama dia. Yang penting gua terima 3.5 juta per bulan. Dia pun ok, dan bahkan jujur bilang kalo dia minta fee dari penyewa.

Pasca covid, gua naikin jadi 4 juta per bulan. Gua lihat pasarannya di OLX, memang sekarang rate nya untuk unit gua (2 KT, 1 KM) itu sekitar 4.2 - 4.5 juta per bulan ada jg yang rada edan pasang 5 juta per bulan, cuman harga segitu udah dapet yang 2 KT + 2 KM. Gua ambil angka 4 juta per bulan sengaja biar cepet keisi aja krn nyari penyewa unit 2 KT lumayan susah. Gua gatau broker gua ambil berapa, yg penting gua dapet di angka yang gua mau. Dan selama ini berjalan lancar.

Sampe di titik kok gua ngerasa ketemu broker gini agak2 too good to be true ya.

Ok misal dia jual 4.5 juta per bulan, ada yang sewa 12 bulan berarti 54 juta. Gua cuma minta 48 juta, berarti dia dapet 6 juta. Berhubung gua tinggal duduk manis dan terima duit, ini kebanyakan ga ya? Jujur gua agak awam kalo masalah broker gini.

EDIT: Biasanya bayar broker itu tarifnya berapa?

Sebenernya sih gua prefer untuk keisi, makanya gua pasang agak murah gpp biar gua ga bayar IPL, dan bisa bayar maintenance tiap tahun.

Kira2 apa lagi ya yang perlu gua perhatiin kalo sama broker apartemen gini? Ada modus2 kah?

TIA!

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 27 days ago

AC mobil dan hubungannya dengan cuaca panas akhir-akhir ini

Kompresor AC sebat dulu gan

Yak jadi memang kita udah masuk ke musim kemarau. Di wilayah commuting gua (Jakarta dan sekitarnya), mungkin udah 1 bulan lebih nggak turun hujan. Lucunya, beberapa bulan kebelakang ini gua liat ada at least empat orang temen gua yang mobil nya ac nya jebol (termasuk gua, sadly wkwk).

Terus hubungannya apa sih, antara cuaca panas sama AC jebol?

Cara kerja AC mobil

Ada setidaknya tujuh komponen vital di sistem AC mobil, yang dimana kalo salah satunya nggak ada, AC mobil gak akan bisa kerja sesuai dengan peruntukannya:

  1. Kompresor -> gunanya untuk memompa freon untuk sirkulasi (mirip kaya water pump di cooling system)
  2. Kondensor -> fungsinya untuk dinginin freon, serta ngerubah freon dari gas jadi cair
  3. Fan/Kipas -> untuk bantu dinginin kondensor, dan mastiin kondensor dapet air flow yang cukup
  4. Drier -> fungsinya untuk menyaring kotoran, dan menyerap kelembaban supaya freon lebih mudah dirubah menjadi bentuk gas
  5. Expansion valve -> fungsinya buat ngatur berapa banyak freon masuk/keluar dari/ke evaporator (mirip kaya thermostat di cooling system)
  6. Evaporator -> ini yang menyimpan dingin di system AC dengan merubah bentuk freon menjadi gas, dan jadi heat exchanger di dalam kabin.
  7. Blower -> menghembuskan hawa dingin dari evaporator ke kabin mobil.

Nah, sekarang apa hubungannya dengan cuaca panas?

Sesuai dengan insting manusia, kalo kepanasan pasti kita pengen masuk ke tempat dingin secepatnya. Yang biasanya dilakukan kalo abis parkir mobil dibawah terik matahari pasti langsung nyalain AC dengan setelan kipas tinggi dan suhu paling rendah. Nah, inilah yang membuat system AC bekerja lebih keras daripada biasanya.

Pada dasarnya, AC itu akan menyesuaikan kinerja sesuai dengan setelan kita. Kalo kita setel di 18°C, maka sistem AC akan berusaha supaya suhu kabin mendekati 18°C. Kalo suhu di kabin, misalnya, lagi 25-30°C, maka untuk nurunin ke 18°C itu gak terlalu berat. Tapi, kalo mobil siang bolong di parkir di luar dan di bawah terik matahari, suhu di dalem kabin itu bisa sampe 50°C, bahkan ada yang bilang bisa sampe 70°C, makanya banyak yang bilang bahaya ninggalin power bank di dalem mobil. Hal ini gara2 kabin mobil itu kayak rumah kaca, dimana panas yang masuk kejebak di dalem dan gabisa keluar. Makanya suhu di dalem kabin itu bisa se ekstrim itu.

Nah, kebayang kan AC harus kerja sebesar apa untuk nurunin dari 70°C ke 18°C. Even lu pasang settingan fan paling kecil, kompresor akan tetep mompa dengan full power. Hal ini juga diperburuk dengan sifat freon yang menyerap kalor. Sehingga, tekanan di dalam sistem AC juga akan meningkat signifikan. Kompresor kerja keras + tekanan yang lebih tinggi dari normal, nah inilah yang bisa bikin AC jebol.

Komponen apa yang sering jebol?

  1. Evaporator.

Ini adalah komponen yang paling sering kasus jebol. Selain karena umur, jebolnya evaporator itu juga bisa dipengaruhi hal-hal lain. Misal, karat. Karena evaporator ini fungsinya ngerubah freon dari cair menjadi gas, sehingga secara alami pipa2 di evaporator ini mengembun. Nah, kalo jarang ganti filter AC, kemungkinan embun ini akan bercampur dengan debu. Kalo udah begini, ini bisa bikin karat. Kualitas freon dan oli kompresor yang jelek juga bisa berpengaruh dan berpotensi mengikis pipa2 di dalam evaporator. Dan kebiasaan merokok di dalam mobil juga bisa berpotensi bikin evaporator cepet karatan karena zat asam dari nikotin ini bersifat korosif.

  1. Kompresor.

Ini juga sering jebol. Karena dia yang bertugas untuk mompa freon, jadi emang dia ini kerja nya yang paling berat. Yang suka bikin jebol biasanya oli kompresor kurang (dan dibiarkan), saluran AC tersumbat (kotor, atau expansion valve macet), atau saluran AC kotor. Karena dia ini cara kerjanya kayak mesin (ada yang pake piston, ada yang model rotary), maka kalo saluran AC kotor itu berpotensi bikin kotoran masuk ke ruang piston dan ngerusak dinding piston kompresor.

  1. Kondensor.

Kalo ini sering jebol karena posisinya paling depan, bahkan di depan radiator. Makanya potensi kondensor jebol karena kena batu di jalan itu sering banget. Selain itu karena dia juga terekspos, maka potensi dia berkarat juga tinggi.

  1. Blower/Fan.

Kalo ini paling sering karena usia, karena memang dia bener2 cuma kaya kipas aja. Kalo jarang ganti filter AC, biasanya daerah blower ini jadi banyak debunya -> berpotensi bikin beban blower lebih tinggi -> lebih cepat rusak. Sama juga dengan fan alias kipas kondensor. Ini memang biasanya rusak karena usia. Di cuaca yang panas, fan kondensor ini juga bekerja lebih keras biar suhu kondensor tetep optimal dan nggak bikin tekanan di dalem sistem AC berlebih. Kalo fan bekerja lebih keras dari seharusnya, otomatis itu jg memperpendek umurnya.

Gimana cara ngerawat sistem AC?

  1. Harus rajin bebersih.

Filter AC harus diganti paling telat banget 1 tahun sekali. Rajin2 bersihin kondensor dari kotoran biar airflow nya tetep bagus. Evap juga rajin2 di bersihin biar bersih dari debu. Kalo niat, bisa juga ke tukang ac secara rutin buat ngecek tekanan AC, apakah berlebih, kurang, atau pas.

  1. Buang panas dulu sebelum nyalain AC.

Ini bisa di kondisikan dengan dua cara: pertama, pake tutupan tolak panas di kaca depan. Kaca depan ini adalah jalan utama panas masuk ke dalem mobil, dengan ditutup pake tolak panas, at least ga semua panas masuk ke dalem kabin. Cara kedua, adalah dengan buka pintu/jendela dulu sebelum nyalain AC. Sehingga panas yang terjebak bisa keluar dulu, sehingga bisa ngurangin kinerja AC.

  1. Hindari parkir di tempat lembab.

Parkir di tempat lembab meningkatkan resiko karat pada sistem AC. Jadi lebih baik parkir di tempat yang sirkulasi udaranya bagus, atau kalo parkir di garasi, sering2 pintunya dibuka biar udaranya bersirkulasi.

Yak mungkin segitu dulu sharing hari ini biar ga kepanjangan. Kalo ada tambahan or koreksi feel free to comment!

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 28 days ago

What is the most interesting/unique station in Japan in your opinion?

I've been hooked with videos by Tanner on YouTube and he likes to tell stories about stations, or riding "unusual" trains. In this video he went to a Shinkansen station that only used by very few people, and the story behind why this station exist even though it is located in a very weird area.

In your opinion, what is the most interesting/unique station in Japan? It could be because of the story behind it, architecture, or anything.

For me it is the Annakaharuna Station in which is featured on the video on the link above. It is the story about the station that is interesting imo.

u/kemosabe6296 — 1 month ago

Apakah nama "Mulyono" sekarang lebih erat dengan becandaan?

Kemaren temen gua di data gitu sama ketua RW karena ada kakeknya masih tinggal disitu (entah buat apa, mungkin karena sepuh atau gimana jd butuh perhatian khusus?)

Ditanya "mas boleh di infokan nama kakeknya?"

Dijawab "Mulyono"

Si ketua RW malah ngomel katanya jangan bercanda WKWKKWKWK

Apakah nama Mulyono sekarang kedengerannya jd kayak bercandaan ya? Ada yg punya pengalaman serupa?

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 1 month ago
▲ 3 r/e39+1 crossposts

It seems that my car hate me so much... (2001 525i)

AC compressor went kaput

While still chasing the EML issue, my mechanic sent me this. Smoking badly from the AC compressor.

The good thing? Mechanic tested my car and the EML issue seems to be solved.

Assuming the compressor is internally damaged, I can accept if I have to replace the condensor (replaced 6 years ago), and stuff like dryer (since it is cheap)

However, can I save the evaporator? I replaced that less than a month ago and it will be very PITA if I have to buy evaporator again.

TIA!

reddit.com
u/kemosabe6296 — 1 month ago
▲ 3 r/e39+1 crossposts

Can anyone confirm if this is a bad throttle body? (M54B25)

I am having trouble with 117 PVS Ratio, 147 CAN Throttle Valve error code. I used to have error 119 TPS-MAF not plausibility and 135 TPS-selftest. Only error 117 and 147 that return.

This vid I am testing with PA Soft, and I held the rev at 2,000rpm. And it seems that the throttle angle and signal doesn’t move? Is this a confirmed bad throttle body?

TIA!

u/kemosabe6296 — 1 month ago

Anyone familiar with BMW TSB SI B 12 10 02?

My car is 2001 525i, M54B25, Auto. All stock.

So years ago I had this EML issue + limp home mode. The code always "117 PVS Ratio" on DME, and "147 CAN Throttle Valve" on EGS. During INPA test, I can see the accelerator pedal can only produced 70°-ish PWG even when I "click" it. I replaced the accelerator pedal and wiring harness that goes from DME box to engine bay (I can see both were produced back in 2003), and I got no problem for 2 years. Testing using INPA, now it reached 103-ish° PWG when I "click" it, which is way better than before.

2 weeks ago when I'm doing AC job, the EML and limp mode came back. The codes are the same. Car wouldn't accelerate. Codes are the same, 117 PVS Ratio and 147 CAN Throttle Valve. I unplug-replug the DME and EGS connectors, and it somehow back to normal although I still had to clear the code.

Drove it for a week, the EML came on, now without limp mode. This time, I got these errors:

  • 119 TPS-MAF Plausibility
  • 135 TPS Self-test

Since the car wasn't in limp mode, I can drove it home even though the acceleration a bit harsh. Cleared the code, and it was fine until yesterday when I got another EML + limp home mode, with the same error code: 117 PVS Ratio and 147 CAN Throttle Valve. I unplug-replug the DME and EGS connectors again, and it is back to normal, although the limp home mode still needs to be cleared. And even though I noticed an improvement in acceleration, I can smell burning from AC vents at higher speed, which never happened before (idk if it is related or not). At home I checked the engine bay visually and all seems normal.

Now INPA test shows that when I click the pedal, it is at 102.6° PWG which is slightly lower than 2 years ago. Tested the battery, SoH is at 100%, 12.6v, and SoC is at 86% so I don't think it is a battery issue. Alternator was replaced with a brand new Mahle unit back in 2022.

Now I am having a bit of a trust issue with this car lol

Then I found this TSB, which says to replace throttle body that was made before May 1st, 2002. Anyone familiar with this TSB? Or maybe anyone having the same problem as mine?

u/kemosabe6296 — 1 month ago
▲ 3 r/e39

Anyone familiar with BMW TSB SI B 12 10 02?

My car is 2001 525i, M54B25, Auto. All stock.

So years ago I had this EML issue + limp home mode. The code always "117 PVS Ratio" on DME, and "147 CAN Throttle Valve" on EGS. During INPA test, I can see the accelerator pedal can only produced 70°-ish PWG even when I "click" it. I replaced the accelerator pedal and wiring harness that goes from DME box to engine bay (I can see both were produced back in 2003), and I got no problem for 2 years. Testing using INPA, now it reached 103-ish° PWG when I "click" it, which is way better than before.

2 weeks ago when I'm doing AC job, the EML and limp mode came back. The codes are the same. Car wouldn't accelerate. Codes are the same, 117 PVS Ratio and 147 CAN Throttle Valve. I unplug-replug the DME and EGS connectors, and it somehow back to normal although I still had to clear the code.

Drove it for a week, the EML came on, now without limp mode. This time, I got these errors:

  • 119 TPS-MAF Plausibility
  • 135 TPS Self-test

Since the car wasn't in limp mode, I can drove it home even though the acceleration a bit harsh. Cleared the code, and it was fine until yesterday when I got another EML + limp home mode, with the same error code: 117 PVS Ratio and 147 CAN Throttle Valve. I unplug-replug the DME and EGS connectors again, and it is back to normal, although the limp home mode still needs to be cleared. And even though I noticed an improvement in acceleration, I can smell burning from AC vents at higher speed, which never happened before (idk if it is related or not). At home I checked the engine bay visually and all seems normal.

Now INPA test shows that when I click the pedal, it is at 102.6° PWG which is slightly lower than 2 years ago. Tested the battery, SoH is at 100%, 12.6v, and SoC is at 86% so I don't think it is a battery issue. Alternator was replaced with a brand new Mahle unit back in 2022.

Now I am having a bit of a trust issue with this car lol

Then I found this TSB, which says to replace throttle body that was made before May 1st, 2002. Anyone familiar with this TSB? Or maybe anyone having the same problem as mine?

u/kemosabe6296 — 1 month ago
▲ 3 r/e39

Welded compressor valve? (2001 525i, M54B25)

So I had classic AC problem. Warm air, and aux fan isn't working.

Turns out the compressor couldn't create sufficient pressure which explains everything.

The AC specialist said cheapest way is to replace the valve (I've swapped mine, I believe this compressor is for MY 2003 onwards. My original compressor doesn't have this valve). And it works. The AC now blows cold air, and aux fan working (although slightly louder than usual).

However, the evaporator sensor shows that it couldn't go lower than 10.8°C (I believe the normal range is below 10°C). The specialist then said to weld the valve, basically lock it to one position.

He said it is one way to tell if the compressor gone weak or it's maybe I got a bad valve, again. He is pretty sure the compressor is fine, so he said that I don't have to pay him if the weld trick doesn't work. So I said yes.

And it does work, so I can say the compressor isn't at fault (most likely). The evap sensor shows 8.2°C and still goes even lower. Aux fan works like before I welded it.

However... it seems that "locking" the valve in max position does actually put lot of weight on the engine and I can feel the engine is slightly heavier than usual.

On the other hand, now the aux fan works constantly, and since it is slightly louder than usual (tbf it is not as loud as when it's on failsafe mode), now I have suspicion about maybe the pressure is still not correct (maybe over pressure since it is locked in max position?)

Should I replace the valve with a good one? Or maybe it is fine? AC is now constantly cold, and engine does not overheat.

Thank you!

u/kemosabe6296 — 1 month ago