

Moza AY210 Fault - Slow response from support
I plugged in my AY210 base after it going unused for about 6 months and all of a sudden if jerked rather violently anticlockwise and now won‘t center properly.
I’ve contacted support at the start of the week and after an initial response, they’re now ghosting me.
Anyone had any positive interactions with support?
How are people keeping their racks cool and clean in the (UK) summer heat?
I fitted an AC Infinity rack mount cooling unit a few weeks ago to add some much needed ventilation during the hot weather we’re getting currently in the UK (am shooting for a positive pressure setup).
I also fitted a 0.5mm mesh filter to try and reduce (as much as possible) any dust from making its way into the rack. As you’d expect, the mesh filter restricts airflow, somewhat severely I might add, so I’m curious as to what people are doing to A) keep their racks cool and B) keep them somewhat dust free at the same time.
Also, how people are using open racks for their gear is beyond me (so much potential for dust to get everywhere 😪).
Anyone using the Snapmount Rack kit?
I bought these on a bit of a whim and I’m a bit worried about using them in my rack given they’re made primarily out of plastic (they’ll be supporting everything from the 2U UPS to the 24 port HD POE switch).
Anyone else seeing black/blank Find Anything events?
I’ve only noticed that this is happening recently (which isn’t to say it’s been happening for a while), anyone else experiencing the same?
Is there a reason to favour the separate Protect Motion & Entry sensors vs. the All In One sensors?
I bought the 3-pack of Protect All-In-One sensors recently which are great as they have multiple functions (temp, light, motion & door opening) but I'm wondering why Ubiquiti have sepearate sensors available that each do different things?
Is it just that the ones capturing specific events (ie motion vs. door open/close) are Superlink sensors which is better?
UNVR Vs. UNVR G2 for simple domestic use - much of a difference?
I've had the UNVR for about 6 months and whilst it generally performs pretty well, it does tend to hang/freeze when scrubbing footage; I have 6xG6 Turrets and 1x G6 Entry Pro + a whole host of Superlink sensors support by one 12tb HDD (planning on getting more but with prices what they currently are for storage, I'm holding off for now).
I'm curious how the UNVR G2 will perform compared to the UNVR in my relativly simple use case? I know spending the £700 is probably overkill for my domestic use case on something that works perfectly fine but all the same, my wallet can't help but wonder.
This 34 year old twin and earth still ok to use?
I found this role of 1.5mm twin and earth cable in my loft underneath some insulation which I assume has been up there since the house was built in 1992. I feel like the answer is yes given there are cables in the walls of the house that are of the same age, but I thought I’d check (the cables are red, black and CPC) given new colour coding is different.
Has anyone had any luck creating alarms that use AND conditionals?
For the life of me, I cannot get any of my alarms that contain AND statemnets/conditional filters to work.
I've tried the following but neither work (FWIW, when I tried all the settings on their own, they fire alerts but when combining, I get nothing):
- Simple line crossing alert for a known vehicle (using a recognized license plate)
- Notifying me when a door is open the LUX settting is either below or above a safe range
Is there a trick to this that I'm missing?
Should I put all IoT devices on a separate VLAN?
A colleague and I were discussion during the week whether or not to put IoT devices on a separate VLAN. He maintains that any device that could be considered‘untrustworthy’ shouldn’t have access to the entire network (which TBH I kinda agree with although we weren’t able to land on exactly why that is).
Anyway using a separate VLAN for cheap IoT devices or maybe a hidden 2.4Ghz SSID?
How simple are they to set up? Do I need to also set up some firewall rules to enable the devices to only talk to the internet?
Why do the Relay instructions show connecting to devices using the neutral lines?
My understanding for dry-contact relays was that it’s best practise to switch the live/line connectors through the device rather than the neutral wires? If that’s the case, why do the Relay instructions show connecting the neutral through the dry contacts?
Why did Ubiquiti power the relay via 12v rather than off of the line-in/mains voltage?
It seems to me that requiring a dedicated 12v line to power the relay limits where it can be used (or at least makes installation a little more difficult).
Any particilar reason Ubiquiti chose to power the Relay via a seperate 12v feed rather than just off of the input voltage of a 240v feed (I'm in the UK)? The picture is just a test/demo setup whilst I get things configured.
Why am I getting phantom Alarm notifications for alarms I don’t have?
I’ve been playing around with the USL Fob for the past week or so since getting it.
However, tonight when I pressed one of the buttons that I have configured actions for, I got Phantom alarm notifications.
I don’t have any alarms set up to notify me or anyone else in the event of a fob button being pressed so I’m really not sure why Protect sent me a notification.
Anyone seen this before?
Why wasn’t the UniFi Relay designed to support 120/240v wet contacts?
I’ve had the Relay for a few weeks now and I’ve recently been scratching my head trying to think what I should actually do with it.
My garage doors already have automation and I can’t help but think the Relay would be infinitely more useful if it had wet contacts that supplied 120v/240v AC rather than having just dry contacts.
Curious to know how people are using their Relays with lights in particular?
Are line crossing + object detections alarms broken?
Simply put, I'm able to create an alarm that notifies me whenever a line is crossed that I've drawn on two of my G6 Turrets.
However, what I'd really like is to be notified whenever a person crosses the lines I've drawn. I've tried a bunch of different alarm settings but the only settings that I've been able to get to fire are where I've specified a line crossing only (with no other decection settings).
Anyone been able to get line crossings to work with object detections?
Alarm Manager: Missing Relay output options?
I've just adopted a new relay into my network and I'm pretty sure I should be seeing some output options under the Action settings in Alarm Manager no?
Alarm profile mode: Local vs. Global. Which should I be using?
With new versions of Protect switching to Global alarm mode after updating (whether intentional or not), which should I be using?
I investigated why a few of my alarms weren’t firing today after updating last night and it looks like it was because Protect had flipped to use the Global alarm mode setting (without telling me).
This made me think, which should I be using and which is ‘best’?
G6 Turret flickering at night - solutions?
I’m running into an issue that is causing a lot of image flickering. It’s clear to see in the video when I’m playing around with the floodlight I’m planning to install that there’s big visual artefacts in a very specific part of the image.
Long story short, I’ve tried about 5-6 different floodlights but they all cause issues with a G6 Turret I have at night.
Anyone solved this? FWIW, changing between 50hz and 60hz camera setting makes no difference
For those with the 12U rack, how are you cooling your equipment?
Now that we're getting into summer, my rack is starting to get a little warm. To combat this, I've installed two AC Infinity Cloudplate 2U cooling units (one intake at the bottom and one exhaust at the top) but realized with the glass door closed, the exhaust primiarly venting back into the rack.
I have a Cloudplate 3U unit on the way that I'm thinking to replace the buttom 2U fan unit with and complete do away with the top fan unit to create a positive pressure scenario inside the cabinet but am not sure if this'll work any better.
I'm curious to know how other people are cooling their racks?
Should I connect the Protect All-In One sensor to the door or the door frame?
Currently, I’ve stuck the AIO sensor to the door frame but the instructions say to mount it to the door itself.
Anyone know as to why?