Helping my bother-in-law paint his house and we're stuck.
The roof on the left is only one storey so painting the shiplap directly above the ivy is easy - just on a ladder. But how do we get all the way up to do the rest? The apex is about 30ft up.
Hi all, the previous owner of our property applied a varnish to all the skirting that makes it look almost red! They also painted all the walls this yellowish white.
I can’t stand either but i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions about colours that could potentially match the skirting, or if we should just paint over them with a white and start again?
Thanks!
Trying to replace a upvc door and the previous owner has left me with... this. It's the second to last last screw (the other is also stuck) and the damn thing won't shift without them out.
After repeatedly smacking my head on the hydraulic arms of my bed, the only item I left in the room during the entire project, I'm fed up and want to hear others stupid injury or mishaps to lighten my own peripheral visions incompetence!
This isn’t perfect, but it’s been built almost entirely from offcuts of 12mm and 9mm plywood, along with a pair of old 6x9 speakers I had sitting on a shelf.
It runs on a Raspberry Pi Zero W using Raspberry Pi OS Lite. On startup it automatically resumes the last digital audio stream that was playing over WiFi, and currently has 6–7 preset stations that can be selected remotely.
The missing right-hand knob will eventually become the station selector dial. The existing knob controls the master volume on the amplifier. The unit can also be controlled from a phone through a custom HTML interface which allows remote station selection, volume control and safe shutdown.
It also supports AirPlay streaming, automatically switching over from internet radio when a device connects.
The main power switch is mounted on the side facing away from the front panel, and the unit is powered using an old PSU originally used for a 3D printer.
The whole thing was built as a low-cost self-contained workshop stereo using mostly reused parts. This all started because I ran Cat6 cable to the garage so I finally have WiFi and can now stream.
Hi, we are FTB looking to buy this house and it needs quite a bit of work externally. Our main concern are these cracks on the walls. I can’t get a straight answer from anyone if this is due to the house subsiding or due to both lintels failing on the gable end wall. We have had a L3 survey which kind of glossed over this so unsure of what to do now.
Picture 6 is on the back end of the house where a shoddy bay extension has been built which needs knocking down.
Can anyone tell me whether this is a normal thinset for laying tile? Or potentially a black mastic?
Building was built in 1920s but not sure when the tile was laid. The layers seem to be tile, the black stuff, plywood, and then the wooden subfloor.
I have just installed some panelling and I think it’s achieved the desired outcome of breaking up what was a large boring wall. However my caulking is quite frankly awful because I was fed up of aching and in my rush I repainted the wall before caulking error I know.
My question is; do I keep adding paint over the decorators caulk and it’ll blend or should I sand back the areas of overspill on the wall and touch them in that way?
Thanks
EDIT - thanks for all the replies so far. Just a few things I wanted to clear up.
- I’m not going to drill the door itself at all, just the door frame.
- lots of mentions of composites but not sure if the door/doorframe is composite. Is there a photo I could post that would clear this up?
Hi there
Got one of those fancy home security set ups and it comes with this doorbell that needs to be wired. I’m thinking of installing it here. Is there any reason why I shouldn’t be able to drill through this bit of the frame? Or will I probably be fine?
Thanks
Thanks in advance!
The first picture is of my current tap hose connection, it looks like a male connection.
The second picture is the end of the Ikea tap, it looks like a female connection.
What should I get to connect them? I’ve done a bit of searching but I’m getting mixed results.
Hey all,
Looking for some inspiration and ideas. I want to make this basement entrance a bit more appealing and maybe make the floor a bit nicer! Any ideas or suggestions welcome.
Thanks!
We recently bought a wooden bookcase, but the floor is not even where we want to stand it. I bought these wooden levelling wedges and now the bookcase is squared off and stable.
But, we obviously don't want to keep these wedges there forever. My initial idea was to glue the wedges together and then cut them to the shape of the bookcase feet but I'm not sure how to do that with them in place? Maybe there is a better way?
Will the paving blocks hold the weight? Im going to do another one in the middle and at the other end, was held up with timber b4 that is now rotten so wanted to do something more permanent with regard to holding the weight. Will then do a light weight timber frame to hide it all.
Hi all, thanks for all the replies on my previous post!
Looking to get some advice on what the next steps should be with damp in my Edwardian Terraced property. It’s a suspended timber floor with some ashy/dirt material underneath.
We bought this house in January knowing it had some damp issues downstairs. The worst of it is between the lounge and dining room wall (the bright blue and orange one). Weirdly the house doesn’t particularly feel or smell damp, but we have massive patches in various areas, mostly on internal walls.
The first thing we did was lower the ground levels outside and try to expose ventilation holes. The rear patio door is help up with a piece of timber with some hole drilled in, so I will be bricking this up properly soon with some air bricks and a new door. We have also added aco drains round the back garden to stop any water from going down into the cavity of the subfloor.
We’ve also hacked off the fender to the annex part of the house and repointed in lime to allow this section to breathe because originally the ground was level to the bottom of the render.
Now that this is done I’m wondering what the next logical step is? Should I hack of the plaster and see what’s happening underneath? Replaster in lime as this house would have originally had? Do a liquid PDC?
Any advice appreciated!
Removed wallpaper. Previous owners had painted their names and the year underneath in white paint.
I sanded, sealed the whole wall with GARDZ as there was peeling paint too. Two coats of white paint and then two coats of Dulux dark green
Looked great at first but now a week later, the graffiti is showing through. Will another coat help or do I need to do something different?
Have a Victorian terrace in Kent with a basement. There’s a low brick wall three courses high running across the floor near the stairs. Looks like it might have been a coal bunker partition but not sure.
Want to remove it to make that area more accessible.
It doesn’t appear to connect to anything overhead and seems too low to be load-bearing, but wanted a sanity check before I start swinging a hammer.
Photos attached. Anyone dealt with something similar? Is this a straightforward SDS + chisel job or am I missing something?
So, my shower has been leaking. I thought it was an old shower, so probably needed replacing, so i took the shower head and bracket down. Then I attached a new shower head, still leaked. So, I took the head off, and was left with what's in the pictures.
Someone on here told me to unscrew everything so we could see what's going on - it wasn't really screwed on, it turns out. I basically just pulled off what Claude told me is a compressor, so now I have what is in the final pics - a bit of exposed copper pipe, with I think a nut in the deepest bit i can see.
Any ideas?
I'm finally replacing the very old skirting boards upstairs. The original skirting is very short so I'm having trouble with what to do where the skirting and stairs meet. Is there a simple solution to this that I'm just not seeing? How is it supposed to look here?