How do I get back into surfing?
I’ve been surfing my whole life, but got really into it when I was 12. I’m 23 now. I was born in Hawaii, grew up in Florida, and live in Hawaii now. Ever since I’ve moved back here my desire to surf has slowly been slipping away, and I have no clue why.
I think I’m a bit spooked by the reef breaks here as I learned entirely on tame beach breaks in Florida. I also had a really bad hold down the last time I went out and since then even the thought of surfing gets my heart pounding.
It used to be a super fun and relaxing thing I did but now I dread it, although I want to find my surfing spirit again. Does anyone have any suggestions or has anyone lived through a similar experience.
PS: I do a lot of bodysurfing now, but nothing on a board. I guess I might be getting my fix from that. Not sure. It’s just easier to hop in the water and have fun with bodysurfing. Much less commitment than with surfing.