u/pigking188

I could kind of use some advice. For those of you who "go through" a lot of consoles and especially reshell a lot, what do you do with all the OEM shells and cases you accumulate? Pretty much everything you see here is either heavily scratched/damaged, missing important pieces, heavily yellowed, or all of the above. Realistically most of it I probably couldn't even give away. Still though, it feels like, deeply wrong to me to just like, throw anything like this away. I don't have a ton of space to work with so I can't really afford to just keep storing this stuff forever, and tomorrow I have four more Super Famicoms coming in in similar condition, lol. Any thoughts/advice?

Hope this is the right place for this, figured I'd share a model I've been working on. It's designed to help you mod any standard non "Jr." North American Super Nintendo model to run off of USB-C. It's designed to use common, generic, inexpensive USB trigger boards, that can be found on places like AliExperss for under $1. Some ready-made USB-C mods exist for the SNES, but some of them require you to do things like remove the SNES's voltage regulator, and attempt to run the console directly off of USB-5V. Others, both-off-the shelf and DIY, require you remove the RF modulator, which may or may not be acceptable for your purposes.

With this mod, you can simply configure the board to request 9V, and wire positive and negative DC from the trigger board into the DC terminals of the SNES. All of the original circuitry remains in-tact, making this the safest way to do this kind of mod. Of course, for the best results, you'll still want to use a high quality USB-C power supply. I know the Reflex Volt ones sold by MisterAddons are considered highly.

Not the kind of thing everybody will be interested in, probably not worth up and doing to your console, but I for example like it as a way to repair systems with a broken DC power jack, which seems pretty common.

Also, full credit to SnarfxxxSnarf, agi, and john3d, who's models I remixed as part of working on this. I am a pretty big noob when it comes to 3d modeling and am absolutely not at a point where I could make something like this from scratch

https://www.printables.com/model/1759052-snes-usb-c-power-mod-generic-9v-trigger-board-back

Hey all! Thought I might show off some work I've recently finished up on this SCVH-CPU-01 Super Famicom. I bought it as not working for $14; probably the worst looking shell I've ever seen, looked like it had been ran over by a truck. This is what it looks like now, fully working!

It wasn't booting initially, but I fixed that by cleaning about a pound of hair out of the cartridge slot. After that it booted, but the composite output was barely coming through. I fixed that with a full recap. I accidentally ordered smd caps which wouldn't have been my preference as I'm just installing with an iron but I think I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out, There was definitely some leaking under the video capacitors, but there wasn't any board damage, so it came out really clean. I also installed a new voltage regulator, 78S05CV, and a 470uf capacitor for good measure.

Lastly, I've been working on a 3d printed mount for these readily available USB-C trigger boards, and I finally have a version that I'm happy with. You don't need to remove the RF modulator for this one! I have it configured to run at 9v and all of the original power circuitry is otherwise in tact, just feeding straight into the DC terminals. I love USB-C mods but I'm very passionate about warning against any mod that tries to get you to remove important voltage regulation or run your console off of 5V.

The shell is 3d printed using the model available on RetroRGB. I used Elegoo PETG and I'm really happy with how to color "match" came out. I'm honestly a lot happier with it than I expected to be. It's a mostly really good model but I did end up having a lot of trouble getting it together. The area around the eject button is modeled incorrectly so I ended up having to dremel and cut a lot of plastic out in that area to allow the button to sit at least close to flush, and you can definitely kind of see it. The slot for the power button is also too small so I had to file some of it away so the switch could slide all the way into the off position, which you can see a little bit when the switch is up, but that doesn't bother me much. Buttons and controller ports are from my previous SNES that I put in a Bitfunx shell.

Altogether really pleased with how it came out but I would definitely consider it more of a hobby project for people who like 3d printing, definitely still just recommend a Bitfunx shell if you just need something to replace a broken case.