u/pretzelsncheese

It's not completely random. It seems to only occur during moments of high FFB. I can reproduce it much faster if I crank the FFB up in-game to the point that I'm clipping hard on basically every turn. With this, I am basically guaranteed to have it reproduce within 1-2 laps (usually before finishing a single lap).

So I'll be mid-turn and then the wheel will lose all FFB (permanently until I reset it) and the wheel will stop responding in-game for ~1 second. During this ~1s, the pedals still function though.

Even with the FFB strength in-game set to something reasonable (where I very rarely get any clipping), it will still occur. Just not nearly as often so it might only happen once or twice in a race (if at all; more common on the FF1600 than the MX-5). Obviously I'm not going to be playing with the FFB cranked up to be clipping all the time, but I'd like to have the FFB as high as possible (to the point where I'm just barely getting into clipping territory in the highest FFB moments of the track+car) so that I'm not leaving performance/sensitivity on the table.

Any ideas? I've tried googling it several times and the only advice I've really seen is to make sure the USB part of the wheelbase is connected to one of my mobo USB ports (rather than front of the case) which it always has been.

Edit: When this occurs, the USB disconnection sound from Windows does not play. So even though the wheel stops responding for a second, and then has no FFB once it returns (until I restart it manually), it doesn't seem to be getting disconnected from the pc's usb. Also, as mentioned, I can get it working again by manually powering off+on the wheelbase physically, but it also "fixes" if I reset the wheelbase through Moza Pit House's Wheelbase Soft Restart button.

I just got F1 25 on Steam. I'm an iRacing player and always play in VR (Quest 3) so I'd prefer to play F1 in VR as well.

With iRacing, I just play with OpenXR + Meta Link and I don't need to go through SteamVR at all. As far as I can tell from F1, I need to go through SteamVR so that is what I am currently doing.

Once I'm driving the car, it honestly feels fine. If there are any aspect ratio issues, maybe I just don't notice them in the car because I don't have common objects to notice as being off. But in the menus, the game renders at a very wide aspect ratio. Humans are extremely wide (think Wide Putin meme) and I literally need to rotate my head in order to look at either side of the menus.

Is this normal? I'm not a fan of it, but I can't figure out how to fix it.

I understand the basics of the outside - inside - outside rule. Focusing on the exit outside, as far as I understand it, the reason to go outside is so that you can get on the throttle earlier in the turn.

If you get on the throttle too early, you won't be able to turn enough and will go too wide (off-track). But if you got on the throttle too late, meaning that you can actually turn sharper than the ideal/driving line, should you? Or is it better to still aim for the outside on exit in that situation?

For this question, let's not worry about the following corner. Imagine you have a 1km straight so there's no reason to worry about getting to one side of the track for the sake of setting up the next corner.

My intuition says that it's better to cut the corner tighter if you can. This is obviously a signal that you played the early and/or middle of the corner sub-optimally, but in that moment from that position, turning as tight as the car will let you while on full throttle is better than blindly following the ideal line. Is this intuition correct?

Is there any extra nuance to it (besides setting up for the following corner)? For example, if the choice is between following the line without your tires squealing vs tires squealing (but still under control) for a tighter exit, could it actually be better to follow the line?

Thanks for any info!

I'm quite new to sim racing and am just sticking with the mx5 for now. Looking at my trace after corners, I often see the brake line being yellow for a decent amount of the braking. As far as I understand, this means that ABS was activated. Which, as far as I understand, results from some combination of too much brake+wheel (either slamming the brake too hard on its own or combining a little too much brake with a little too much steering).

Whenever I see this, does this mean that I did things wrong? Like if it was during the straight line braking, then I can't brake that hard when I'm going that fast. Or if it was during trail braking, then I have to either apply less brakes or less turning (or less of both) at that point.

Or is ABS actually fine and not punishing at all? In which case, maybe it's fine on the mx5, but I should still try to avoid its activation as much as possible to prepare me for cars that don't have ABS?

Thank you!

I have a 2026 SEL RWD. This is supposed to be an 84kWh battery capacity.

I just charged for 4 hours at a 6kW level 2 charger. The app (CargePoint) says I got 24.0921kWh from the session (which makes sense for 6kW for 4 hours).

24/84 is 28.6% so I should expect to go up 28-29%. But I only went up 25% (from 40% to 65%). Even if I was on the wrong side of rounding for both the start and end %, that'd be at most 27%.

This isn't a big discrepancy obviously, but I'm still curious what is causing it so that I can better predict charging outcomes in the future.

Is the battery % non-linear? Is my battery not actually receiving all the reported kWh from the charger (maybe some is wasted as heat, but I still get charged for it and it still gets reported in the app)?

I just got a 2026 SEL and am curious about all the collision avoidance features, but, for obvious reasons, I don't want to stress test them myself.

(1) I know that adaptive cruise control will slow down based on cars in front of me. But does the car slow down automatically if I don't have adaptive cruise control enabled and I'm getting dangerously close to the car in front of me? For example, if I'm looking to change lanes and I do a shoulder check (not sure if I'll ever stop shoulder checking since idk if I have complete faith in the blind spot protection sensors) and at the exact moment I do the shoulder check, the car in front of me slams on their brakes. Will the ioniq automatically brake to avoid me rear ending them?

(2) I know that the sensors (beeping) and dash diagram give a lot of feedback when parking based on whether you are getting close to an obstacle. But if I were to keep reversing towards a wall despite the sensors getting mad at me, would the car automatically brake or would it let me hit the wall?

(3) When changing lanes, the blind spot sensors will be very helpful in letting me know if it's clear or not. But if I ignored those (idk how that would happen, but hypothetical), would the car let me run into the car beside me? Or would it automatically turn me to avoid this collision?

(4) If another car is trying to merge into my lane and they don't see me so they are going to run into me, will the ioniq do something to avoid this collision (like moving me in the other direction if it's safe to do so)? Also, on this specific topic, would the sensors start beeping in this instance or do the beeps only occur if my turning signal is on?

These are a handful of hypothetical situations that I could come up with, but if you have any more relevant situations to demonstrate what it will/won't do, I'd also be very curious to read about those.

Thank you!