u/shyguylh

I live in a city where there's a road called US-89. About 4 miles from there is another road also called US-89, but these 2 roads never touch each other and they go in totally different directions. As best as I remember, one isn't called US-89 N and the other US-89 W etc, they have the same name. (I just started living here.)

Isn't that about the stupidest thing in the world to do? They are two totally different roads, why would you give them the same name? That's just confusing to people.

By the same token, you can be on one road and the same road changes names like 3 times in 2 miles. Again, who comes up with that?

If the answer is "growth, they added new roads and the old roads kept their original names," I think they should start fresh with all new addresses and names etc anytime a major new road is added. Hanging on to the old names just makes it too confusing.

I think maybe I'm finally doing ok with my 2 riding mowers, bought in the aftermath of a land purchase encompassing 1.8 acres of basic flat lawn grass, with the occasional dirt mound thrown in. It's my first time dealing with riding mowers in probably 30 years. I think maybe, finally, after a shaky start, I'm starting to get a hang of it in terms of steady and reliable usage.

I still have some questions, however.

The 2 mowers I bought were a Poulan Pro which ran but needed some $500 worth of work (coil, carburetor, spindle, PTO cable) before it finally became somewhat reliable, and a Snapper LT125, much more mint smoother running but did need a new spindle and went through 3 belts before it seems to have finally stabilized. Between it all, I have probably spent $800 on the Poulan ($300 buy, $500 repairs) and $665 on the Snapper ($500 buy, $165 repairs) for a total of $1465.

I recently saw a John Deere Zero Turn 50" at Lowe's on clearance for $1900, and I got to thinking "I might as well have just done that." Would you agree, or do you feel that this is fine if they're now finally running ok? Is it that advantageous having 2 mowers, so either (a) someone else could mow at the same time and make the job half the size otherwise or (b) if one acts up, you always have a backup?

Basic care: I figure I'm likely to cut every 2-3 weeks. I know gas gets old in a month. Thus, should I aim to have the fuel tank at or near empty at the end of the job? Should I also not keep gas around in a tank because it also is apt to become old?

I don't have a garage. Would keeping them under a tent-canopy be a half decent situation? Should I also cover it with a tarp hoping to keep out critters?

Winter, end of season--I assume I am to aim for an empty tank at the time of the last cut? What about fuel stabilizer? Spring, I assume the thing to do is take it to a guy for routine servicing (clean carburetor, fuel lines, change spark plugs etc) before commencing to using it?

Thanks for any tips.

I originally bought a Poulan Pro pb195h42lt about 4 days ago for $300 and it's been a head case. The spindle and PTO blade engage-disengage cable broke, I replaced them but now it sputters a lot and last time I tried, it clicks and turns just a little bit but still won't crank.

I spotted a Snapper LT125 from a 5 star seller for $500 which looked very mint so I grabbed it. It is in way better condition and seems to have more modern design, it has some other sort of control for engaging the blade which is much smoother, it has 2 separate pedals for forward and reverse, and looks like it's been kept in a garage. I wish I could go back and undo my first purchase. The difference is $300 vs $500 but it seems more like $200 vs $1000.

Anyway, help me understand, as until recently I hadn't used a riding mower in probably 30 years. How does the control work under the hood as it were for engaging and disengaging the blade, it's so smooth. The Poulan is much more "mechanical" feeling, like the old ones, with a long lever, whereas the Snapper is like pushing a button. Also the transmission operates by the user pushing down on a pedal and there's no gear shift whereas the Poulan is operated by a shift lever (it is hydrostatic) and it maintains that speed until you stop it. The Snapper apparently has a cruise control but I can't figure it out.

Is there a site that sort of goes over the Snapper in detail? I do feel like it's so much better than the old Poulan. I think I may have gotten something pretty good. (It would be for mowing 1.8 acres which are almost totally flat.)

I have a riding mower I bought used last week for $300, a Poulan Pro PB195H42LT which is a 42" hydrostatic 19 HP Briggs and Stratton model. It's done ok except I had to replace the cable for engaging and disengaging the blades, and had to replace one of the spindles. Also it could use a new battery. Otherwise it's fine.

It has a kind of odd quirk, however. It likes to sputter and then it's hard to crank, today in fact I had to just give up and come back later that day. The weird part--it runs a lot smoother when the blades are engaged. If I disengage the blades it tends to start sputtering, I then engage the blades and it smooths over. It's to the point I keep the blades engaged many times even if I'm not cutting anything, just to prevent it from stalling.

Isn't that rather odd? What could be causing it? Given that it is a well used mower, should I have the carburetor etc serviced just for the sake of good maintenance etc? Also, I'm sort of new at this, would such a model be big enough for a level 1.8 acre lot? I've had some suggest I should get a beefier 50" zero turn for such a spot.

Thanks for any help.

I am worried that I've made a terrible mistake. I'm about to close on a land deal (I have my own paid for mobile home) but the loan has a balloon payment. The loan officer says it's only there so they can refinance it at rates which match the current market conditions, whereas a fixed rate mortgage would be fixed at the rate as of the start of the loan. They assure me that I'm not apt to actually be expected to suddenly fork out $20,000 in 6 years. I would simply refinance and keep trucking.

However this one line says exactly what they're saying it doesn't say, or so it appears. I'm worried I've made a big mistake, I've already paid the appraisal and signed the documents, the whole deal is due to close in the next couple of days.

This is my first ever mortgage, and I'm 57. I got approved but it involved paycheck stubs, letters of credit from utilities and reference letters from landlords etc, as my initial credit report said I had no credit at all.

The bank is Texas Bank and Trust.

Is this a common thing which I'm overreacting to? If it's not, and it really could happen to where I'm expected to fork over $20,000 just like that, are there options for getting out if I've already paid appraisal fees etc and signed everything?

I'm someone who is about to close on a 1.8 acre piece of property. It's flat and with few trees or exposed roots or junk etc. Cutting it should be a straightforward proposition. I only have had a 22" Snapper electric push for sometime, where I'm at I'm only dealing with maybe half an acre, obviously more will be needed when we move.

A couple of days ago I got a 42" Poulan Pro second hand riding mower for $300. Understand, spending $2200 for a new one is something I really can't be doing. I don't recall the model number but it apparently has a hydrostatic transmission, I'm not sure what that means, and it's been modified to where it doesn't shut off when you get up from its seat. Engine is Briggs Stratton.

It was working when I got it, since then, after running over a concealed old floor mat from a car, the pulley assembly is acting up. The cable that links to the lever for engaging and disengaging the blade slipped out of a piece or whatever which caused the blades to stop spinning, and then one of the screws attaching a drive pully to the blade broke off, someone will be swapping out that entire piece with a replacement.

Since then I've seen a John Deere LA105 from a 5 star Facebook seller for $550, around 380 hrs. It has a similar size engine but its transmission isn't hydrostatic apparently, and he says it's been regularly serviced. It seems much more mint. I'm pondering getting it and selling off this other one once it's working again, but then again, if I get it working again, why not just stay?

Would such an upgrade make sense, does it increase the likelihood that I won't keep having such things falling apart on a regular basis? I'm very illiterate with respect to servicing etc and what makes this transmission better etc, or how to bypass the seat safety switch etc or how to adjust a cable etc. Any of those things are totally out of my element. About all I know is that a lot of people like John Deere machines, but that model apparently was made in 2009 or so.

Also, for 1.8 flat acres, is a 42" with a 20 HP engine enough for, say, twice a month cutting, or would you recommend something less"entry level?"

I'm someone who is about to close on a 1.8 acre piece of property. It's flat and with few trees or exposed roots or junk etc. Cutting it should be a straightforward proposition. I only have had a 22" Snapper electric push for sometime, where I'm at I'm only dealing with maybe half an acre, obviously more will be needed when we move.

A couple of days ago I got a 42" Poulan Pro second hand riding mower for $300. Understand, spending $2200 for a new one is something I really can't be doing. I don't recall the model number but it apparently has a hydrostatic transmission, I'm not sure what that means, and it's been modified to where it doesn't shut off when you get up from its seat. Engine is Briggs Stratton.

It was working when I got it, since then, after running over a concealed old floor mat from a car, the pulley assembly is acting up. The cable that links to the lever for engaging and disengaging the blade slipped out of a piece or whatever which caused the blades to stop spinning, and then one of the screws attaching a drive pully to the blade broke off, someone will be swapping out that entire piece with a replacement.

Since then I've seen a John Deere LA105 from a 5 star Facebook seller for $550, around 380 hrs. It has a similar size engine but its transmission isn't hydrostatic apparently, and he says it's been regularly serviced. It seems much more mint. I'm pondering getting it and selling off this other one once it's working again, but then again, if I get it working again, why not just stay?

Would such an upgrade make sense, does it increase the likelihood that I won't keep having such things falling apart on a regular basis? I'm very illiterate with respect to servicing etc and what makes this transmission better etc, or how to bypass the seat safety switch etc or how to adjust a cable etc. Any of those things are totally out of my element. About all I know is that a lot of people like John Deere machines, but that model apparently was made in 2009 or so.

Also, for 1.8 flat acres, is a 42" with a 20 HP engine enough for, say, twice a month cutting, or would you recommend something less"entry level?"

I'm upgrading my living situation from a small half acre lot with about 35% of it having grass to a 1.8 acre lot with almost all of it grass. As such, it stands to reason that the battery operated push mower is no longer going to be enough.

Trouble is, it's bringing back the situation where I'm having to deal with how ridiculously nit picky gas mowers can be. That's exactly why I had a battery operated one in the push realm. I expect a mower to just work, period, without being so ridiculously nit picky about everything, like a light bulb-- switch on, switch off. "Mowers aren't like that," well they need to make them to be like that or they shouldn't be allowed to make them at all, BY LAW. Cutting grass shouldn't mandate that you become a full time equipment engineer.

Anyway, today's issue is I got a riding mower for our larger place and was doing fine cutting what I was cutting, until I apparently hit a small brick or something, at which point it totally stopped and now won't start. It clicks but it won't turn over, much less start. Yes the blade is disengaged, the height adjustment is all the way high, it's in neutral, battery is fine. No matter, it "clicks" but won't start.

My limited research indicates it's perhaps the flywheel, although someone is supposed to come look at it tomorrow. If that is it, how complicated and expensive of a repair is that likely to be? Moreover, why can't a mower just shrug off such contact and, upon being restarted, just keep on going? Chances are I'm apt to hit a rock or two again, and no, I REFUSE to rake the entire yard first before I mow it.

If I see a huge rock suitable for sunbathing etc of course I'll move it, but every single pebble? Heck no. That's a ridiculous expectation. Heck my battery operated push mower was known to encounter a rock or two and I was able to restart it and keep on going. Why should a 42" full size tractor mower be so nit picky? I've got a life, my goodness.

Is this something that's apt to make it to where I'm better off just paying someone to cut my grass for me? The lowest I've been quoted is $100 for the 1.8 acres, maybe just have them cut it about 3 times a year and otherwise just let it grow.

I'm in Texas. I found this property I really like, it's a $30,000 1.8 acre parcel in a quiet rural area (but yet close to fast food places etc), but it has encountered snags. First, I was told it had community water--nope, turns out it requires a water well. I did obtain financing, and after the financing I still have enough even after getting the water well, although it's cutting it close.

The real rub has been getting an electrical easement. Yes, apparently you ARE allowed to sell land here that doesn't have utility easements in place. The neighbors are willing to provide it but they haven't signed anything, and they won't sign anything until they have seen how the work will look (guide wires etc).

The supervisor of the electrical company assures me it will be done in a manner in which they will be OK, and the estimate for what it will cost me is reasonable, but again until the electrical people have visited the site and communicated directly to the neighbors what they're going to do, the property owner isn't going to sign the easement, and that if you pressure them (meaning if I do), it will turn them off to where they won't sign it at all out of my being too "pushy."

Basically I'm being told I need to "let things play out" over the next 1-2 weeks and nonetheless go ahead with the purchase, basically act on faith that they're going to grant the easement, because all indications are that they will, you just have to let them come to you as it were. The agent is telling me that, with the option period (I put up "earnest money") arriving it's basically becoming a thing of "put up or shut up," as the current owner is an investor and is anxious to sell, but meanwhile I'm being told to "let things play out slowly" with the easement.

It (my having to wait for the easement to be signed) reminds me of that segment in Seinfeld where Elaine explained that she's trying to attract a man and that you have to treat him like a squirrel and let him come to you, that if you make any sudden movements you'll scare him away. It's basically shaping up to be like that.

So, I have to make up my mind QUICKLY if I want it or not, and yet "have faith" that the neighbors are going to sign an easement. I love the spot, and in meeting with the neighbors I do feel like they will come through, but I am NOT liking the compulsion to go ahead with the purchase (which then ties up money I could use towards something else) basically "having faith" that they will sign.

Sorry if this has ran too long, but I will point out that the agent is a seller's agent, I have not retained a BUYER'S agent and I have signed papers which, most likely, prevent me from going and getting one, although I'm told the agency they work for does provide them, so maybe I could negotiate for one. I also have obtained financing which ties into this, financing which I never expected to obtain (because of past problems, although I show as having "no credit" since it's been so long).

It seems to me that the seller should be willing to keep extending the option period for as long as is necessary (give it, say, 2-3 more weeks) to give me time to get the signatures, and that if the seller of the property isn't willing to provide me with this because they're anxious to sell, then that's just not a good situation for me.

I'm new at this, I've never purchased property before.

Tips?

I'm trying to buy this one parcel but it doesn't yet have electrical service. I need to get an easement from a nearby neighbor before doing so so that I KNOW that I'll have it as well as know approximately what it costs.

Is it my job or the realtor's to secure this? Also someone was telling me I couldn't obtain it until I owned the land myself, but that made no sense to me. The easement concerns accessing the other person's land, that's separate from who will own the NEW land (me). The only part relevant to me is the electric company's estimate for what they think it will cost me.

Tips?

I have a Moto Stylus 2025 running (I think) Android 16, I upgraded from a 2024 Stylus. Ever since doing so Facebook and FB Messenger keep logging each other out when I alternate between them. I tried re-installing both and rebooting, clearing storage and cache, and I did remove my FB account from my old phone before moving over. No matter, I continue to get the issue. It's to where anything my wife sends me in FB Messenger to look at it, it won't open since it requires going back and forth between Facebook and FB Messenger.

Can anyone please help me here?

2012 scion XD 1.8 L four cylinder auto 4 speed.

I know the ideal is to have all rubber wheels the same size but I have one where the wires are showing. The native size is 215-55-R16, they have 225-50-R16. They're both on the front, one is left the other is right. It's a FWD vehicle.

Is this highly advisable or at least ok to get me home etc?