u/southernlifeactuary

I started looking at Tesla alternatives and discovered some of these I4s were seemingly a sick deal for what you’re getting. Driving them it’s basically an electric 430/440i, super punchy even on e35.

I found one in a neighboring state for 30.5k coming with 27k miles coming off a lease, a 2023 e35. Initially I thought it was a sick deal and ordered an inspection for early next week. Not cpo and has 9 months of factory warranty left. Dealer provided maintenance records and everything looked good. However I was warned by a couple guys locally that the maintenance costs for something like that would still be a lot higher than a Tesla and it’s something to be mindful of and it’s risky to own a bmw without a warranty and that range wasn’t going to be very good. I’ve never thought warranties were worth it because they are priced to be advantageous for the seller and have a lot of exclusions typically. Consumer reports does rank this as one of the most reliable evs though.

I think the Tesla is sleeker inside and maybe more fun to drive, but this I4 seems like a more premium car especially with the red interior and is way better for another few k than these accident or 2023 cpo teslas I’m seeing. Problem is I’m not sure if there is something off with this I4 or if it’s cheaper because it’s coming out of warranty that’s it’s risky without.

Have a 2022 civic, shop said they tore it down and sent estimate of 14.4k to insurer on Friday.

From what I’ve researched the acv is likely in the 20-21k range, which puts it on the borderline of the 70 percent total threshold in my state.

In these cases if I express a preference for the decision either way will it make a difference? Mathematically it seems very borderline.

I run a league which is in its second year. One member exhibits a pattern of behavior that I feel is often outside the bounds of what a reasonable person would do.

For example:

-Last year when he realized he was gonna lose the championship to me he dropped his whole team. Obviously terrible etiquette

-On multiple occasions he has been furious that I wouldn’t give him the number of my opponent or someone higher in waiver order than me so he could text them and tell them to add streamers or claim players over me/whatever. Told him I wasn’t going to promote that behavior regardless of which teams were involved.

-There was a trade a 1-1 trade couple weeks ago. He lost the trade, and when the other owner saw his player in the top performers section earlier this week, he made a comment about it and then this guys response, while fine, was kind of strange. Multiple paragraph rant then 10 minutes later another paragraph, so obviously he was stewing about it the whole time. Multiple people told me they thought it was weird/ was he really serious

-Always sending me terrible trades that I will obviously decline. Commenting things like oh you got lucky with that waiver add but you’ll have to drop players if you want to stream blah blah. I can’t say I’ve ever sent someone a text about the bottom of their roster.

These are just examples. I just feel generally that his behavior is not in alignment with what a reasonable person would do. I’m not going to kick him out of the league mid season, but others are noticing more and more now and I’m not sure how to handle it or if I should not invite him back next season. I generally have enjoyed playing fantasy with him over the past few years, but in the last year ish he has dissolved more and more into being excessive I feel.

I guess I’m just going to have to tell him to tone it down a bit. I’ve been through this with him before about his etiquette but he often tries to turn it around and say Its my fault that I’m colluding against him somehow etc blah blah.I kind of feel like he is just like this when it comes to fantasy. So if I tell him to tone it down it doesn’t matter as it will just end up being more of the same eventually.

Has anyone had similar experiences with difficult league member/how did you handle it?

My opponent for next week added a player today who isn’t playing until next Thursday, however in our matchup next week it isn’t listing the move as counting for next week.

In the past I’ve seen this and it did end up counting as a move for the week in which the next game is.

Is this wrong and should I adjust it to count as a move? I don’t feel the platform Is treating it correctly.

Thinking about getting a reel yak raptor. I know reviews are mixed but the more storage friendly modular is a big advantage for my situation.

One question I have is what actual shipping times have people experienced? It says 1-2 weeks for the particular one I’m looking at, but other colors have much longer times like 8-12 etc. So I’m wondering what people’s actual experiences with them in terms of shipping time are.

She has been looking better last 3 games but on TV and in articles they are talking about her new 6th man role and how she and the coach likes it etc…

If that’s the case and she is stuck With these low Minutes I don’t see how she ends up being worth anything. Unless she gets to 24-25 minutes or more she will just continue to produce like a fringe player or low level keeper. So far she has been worse than a collection of random streamers.

In theory based on the larger sample size, you would expect her to improve, however if she simply isn’t going to play enough there’s nothing that can be done.

Would you trade Jonquel for these two? Friend has been sending trash trades for Jones and I was thinking about countering with this.

I’ve got a motorized sea eagle SUP/micro skiff hybrid and I want to get a cooler for it. I know some people will say don’t get a YETI but I’ve also been wanting one for using by the pool so I want to kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

From what I’ve researched the roadie 25 and tundra 35 would be the best fits. I’ve checked out the roadie but am not sure if it is a bit too tall for stability, whereas the tundra is wider. My board is 12’10” long and 40 inches wide at the point the cooler would be attached.

Last year I got my first setup, a sea eagle fishsup1210, hoping it would be perfect for my situation as an apartment dweller who drives a civic.

It didn’t end up working out. The setup and tear down time was exhausting and it was too big to go safely on the roof and can barely fit in my car with all the attachments. Without the spot lock motor I got it was terrible in wind. The Craigslist hardshell I use at my parents house is way more convenient and enjoyable.

I got a Yakima rack with rollers and plan to get a hardshell this year. My concern is I don’t want to end up with something that is too big and heavy again and take a ton of time to setup. I would prefer some kind of pedal drive but have been looking at paddle kayaks too. I’m going to sell the terrova and put what I can get towards a hardshell.

The main ones I’ve been looking at are:

-Hobie mirage passport 10.5R (from what I gather easier to cartoon than LTE and still has pedal drive)

-Native Slayer Propel 10 LTE (seems like the best option with AR but concerned it is bordering on being too big, since the real weight is more like 72-73 pounds)

-Brooklyn single pedal kayak (only 58 pounds but haven’t heard good things about the brand)

-Native Falcon 11 (good throw and go but no drive, only 60 pounds, cheaper)

Any thoughts on these or how big would be too big for my rack? Without actually trying to lead and unload these it’s hard to gauge tbh.